I applaud your creativity and while your design might work just dandy, I'd like to express two concerns:Any other insights are welcome too.
- Cutting that long notch out of the tube will compromise its resistance to buckling. Whenever this style of engine stand adapter is discussed here on the BB, people always respond: "is supporting the engine from one side really strong enough?" It is strong enough with a full, 360 degrees of tubing. But by turning the tube into a "C" section, you risk that will fold under load. I haven't done a finite element analysis, I don't know what wall thickness or alloy of steel you're using, ... It might work just fine. But a better solution might be to leave the tube intact and use a long socket extension to tighten that nut.
- The offset flange on Jim Steck's original design (see below) puts the pivot point closer to the engine's center of gravity. Having the pivot near the center of the three studs will really make the engine top heavy, especially with the head installed. I wouldn't want an engine to suddenly flop over when balanced that way (especially if the tube strength was compromised by a notch). Offsetting the flange also solves the problem of accessing the top nut.
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