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Discussion Starter #401
We get an occasional warmer day here-and-there, where I can get a few ancillary things done.

Since I have access to the fuel injection parts, I took a look at some of their condition. The injector seals had hardened with age, and were fitting somewhat more loosely than I liked, so I 3D printed some new seats and seals. I don't think I'd examined one of the seals before; my existing design was made from photos and measurements someone had sent me, so I took the opportunity to refine the design a little bit. I'll post more on that in the 3D Printed Parts thread.

While examining and cleaning things, I came across this piece. It mounts the fuel rail to the bracket that connects to the intake manifold, then (if I remember correctly) down to the block near the motor mount.



The rubber is cracked and deteriorated, and I'd like to replace it. I've searched the usual suspects online, and cannot locate the part. An eBay seller has a fuel rail with injectors, regulator, bracket, and that bushing for $127, but I don't need that other stuff.

eBay listing

I don't think I can 3D print one , because I can't find any adhesive that will bond the flexible TPU filament to metal.

Anybody have a lead on one of these?
 

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Mercedes air cleaner mounts are an exact replacement.
 

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Dang!! I just tossed 4 of the braces with good soft mounts. Never had a request for them and storage is at a premium. Considered removing the soft mounts but decided not to. I will see if maybe I saved one.
Cheers, Jon
 

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Anybody have a lead on one of these?
Your local NAPA store probably has them. They are used in many locations on European cars - mounting A/C dryers, fuel pumps, air cleaners, ...

McMaster Carr offers quite a few variations on these things. See: https://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-mounts/=1botk7i and click on "Vibration damping sandwich mounts".

Still, that $.79 apiece price that Shakey found sounds pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #407
As part of my re-assembly, I wanted to repair the 2nd gear synchro and perform the 1st gear synchro mod to my transmission. ...Might as well, while I have everything apart, right?

Yesterday, I imposed upon a friend who had done these tasks before. It only took us a few hours, working at a leisurely pace. I don't have a hydraulic press of my own, and was a little intimidated by the whole process, even with the excellent tutorial by @Vintre.

I think I chose wisely in asking for help. I now have a good understanding of how my Alfa gearbox works. Synchros, dog gears, etc no longer pose such a mystery to me!

I still have to press in a new input seal, reinstall the bell housing, and fill with oil. This will free up some garage space, and I can commence with installing the new valves in my engine's head!
 

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Discussion Starter #408
I got the transmission completely re-assembled this evening, and the garage tidied up a bit. I'm really pleased with how the trans turned out, and it is well-sealed with Ultra-Grey and silk thread.

I actually started installing valves in the head tonight!

I had a horrifying thought this evening: With repairing the engine, and refurbishing the transmission, I am on the path to a leak- and drip-free Alfa Spider! Is such a thing allowed? Will I get booted from AlfaBB?

While I have the car still apart, I'm seriously considering fabricating the pinion nut tool, and replacing the pinion seal. Then my leak-free hypocrisy will be complete!
 

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My daily is a sweet BMW 325Ci Coupe that has a SULEV certificate. (Super Ultra Low Emission Vehicle). It will fail CA smog test with any oil leaks at all! They don't even need to start the car.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #412 (Edited)
Yesterday, I got the valves etc. installed in the head, as well as the camshafts and chain tensioner. Everything went together well, and the leak test was good. I did a test-fitting of the head onto the block, mainly to visualize how I was going to get the timing chain installed, and the camshafts timed properly.

I measured my tappet clearances; I will need to do a little math, and order some shims. This is probably due to me lapping the valves to clean up the seats.

When I began to re-install the tensioner, I found that I'd installed a small bolt where the tensioner bolt was supposed to go, probably for safe-keeping:

The threaded portion of the bolt is about 8mm long, and it has what appears to be an aluminum washer on it. I'll have to be vigilant as I continue, to determine the proper location for this item. I cannot complain...this is the first 'bonus' part in the process...either leftover, or missing part! If anyone has an idea, I can quit playing 'Where's Waldo' much sooner.

I just found out that I have a few weeks of military duty starting soon, so this will further delay my progress. At least when I get back, I'll have shims and a pinion seal waiting for me!

A question: The engine overhaul manual cautions about installing and checking only one camshaft at a time, to avoid valves touching. Can they really interfere? It seems they won't actually move that far; of course, better to err on the side of safety.

Now, off to Harbor Freight to get a digital caliper that will measure the shims!
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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A digital caliper won't work. You'll need a micrometer so the tip can go inside the shim. Just the part that sits on top of the valve not the skirt that keeps the shim located on the valve is measured. That plug looks like a gearbox or dif plug. Nothing motor related comes to mind but we're talking my mind here so don't bet the farm on that:)
On the tensioner bolt... when the tip is in the block there are 3 or 4 threads showing, if it's not engaged the bolt goes in far enough so no threads or just one is showing.
Looking good!
 

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The bolt looks like the coolant plug on the left side of the block, underneath #4 exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #415
@gigem75, I'm with you! This is what I bought for $24 at Harbor Freight:


I haven't removed the camshaft yet, but I think the pointy side will fit inside the shim's skirt, and the flat side sit on the top.

I used a wooden broom handle to leverage the tensioner while installing the bolt; I couldn't bring myself to jam a metal pry-bar in there! The tensioner bolt has 3 threads showing and is holding well, so I think I got it right. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #416
The bolt looks like the coolant plug on the left side of the block, underneath #4 exhaust.
My photo didn't do it justice in scale; on my block that's a larger brass-looking nut with a copper washer.

For now, I'll just put it in a baggie with a big question mark on it.
 

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I think I bought my mic somewhere around 1972 before those fancy digital thingys :)
You can adjust the valves with the head on the bench and do them one side at a time. Put a 2x4 under each end of the head so when you rotate the camshaft they clear the bench. If you are concerned about one sides valve hitting the other side valves loosen the caps on the side you're not adjusting and everything will clear.
 
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Discussion Starter #418
I think I bought my mic somewhere around 1972 before those fancy digital thingys :)
I'm certainly not saying anyone's old (I would have been in elementary school in '72), but if one has to calculate shim thickness on an abacus, well...
 

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Many of us who were in high school in the pre-calculator days can do mental arithmetic:wink2:
 
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