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One issue: In the spiders (mine is a 67 Duetto) there is little vertical room in the engine bay. I always had trouble with the engine+trans unit getting the end of the tx out. The problem was the stub of the gearshift lever "just" hitting the body's bell housing. I always had to twist the engine unit to get it out.

After too many removals, I finally decided to just pull the stub. While you're removing the interior parts of the shift lever, just unbolt the four 10 mm nuts on the side of the tx tower and pull the pivot/vent housings. You don't actually need to remove the lever, just let is slide down a bit; it only needs ½ inch or so to clear the body.

BTW - remember to unbolt the ground strap from the top of the clutch bell housing to the upper body. You can pull the engine without doing this, but it does make a mess of things.

That and a $99 HF engine hoist is all it takes to pull the whole thing.

Remember to get the drive shaft u-joints aligned properly on reassembly. Inspect (and almost always replace the rubber donut - it cracks pretty easily. I replaced mine with a modern (german) one now available from the usual suspects (needs proper spacers). Much stronger.

Robert
 

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One issue: In the spiders (mine is a 67 Duetto) there is little vertical room in the engine bay. I always had trouble with the engine+trans unit getting the end of the tx out. The problem was the stub of the gearshift lever "just" hitting the body's bell housing. I always had to twist the engine unit to get it out.
Robert
When pulling the engine and tranny together, we get real silly. The back end of the car goes up as high as possible on jack stands, while the front wheels come off and we drop the nose almost to the ground. That extreme angle makes it easier to get everything in or out in one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just use one and move it on the second row towards the front of car. As long as you are removing the engine & trans as a unit, pulling from the second pair of head studs will position the engine & trans at just about the right angle. The Alfa engine & trans are light enough to allow you to manually tip them up/down slightly to maneuver around obstacles.
Thanks Jay

When pulling the engine and tranny together, we get real silly. The back end of the car goes up as high as possible on jack stands, while the front wheels come off and we drop the nose almost to the ground. That extreme angle makes it easier to get everything in or out in one piece.
I have a set of 6 Tons Jack stands which I can use to lift the back end. They go up to around 61cm. If that won't be enough I can always deflate the front tyres.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
After too many removals, I finally decided to just pull the stub. While you're removing the interior parts of the shift lever, just unbolt the four 10 mm nuts on the side of the tx tower and pull the pivot/vent housings. You don't actually need to remove the lever, just let is slide down a bit; it only needs ½ inch or so to clear the body.
I should explore this option too


BTW - remember to unbolt the ground strap from the top of the clutch bell housing to the upper body
It is on the "To Do List"

Remember to get the drive shaft u-joints aligned properly on reassembly. Inspect (and almost always replace the rubber donut - it cracks pretty easily. I replaced mine with a modern (german) one now available from the usual suspects (needs proper spacers). Much stronger.
I have marked the drive shaft with "Tippex" and will replace the rubber doughnut with a new one. I am buying from my parts from Classic Alfa.


Thank you for the tips Robert
 

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When pulling the engine and tranny together, we get real silly. The back end of the car goes up as high as possible on jack stands, while the front wheels come off and we drop the nose almost to the ground. That extreme angle makes it easier to get everything in or out in one piece.
Agree that engine/trans removal is easier with the car tipped that way. BUT:

- If you are using a hoist fixed to your garage ceiling (instead of a "cherry picker"), you aren't going to be able to roll the car backward as the engine comes out with the back end is up on jackstands.

- And if you are using a "cherry picker", it's tough to get the legs under the front of the car if it's sitting that low.

I have found that the engine/trans will come out with the car level if the gear lever stub is removed. Just doing that makes a big difference.

When you remove the gear lever stub, be sure to cover the gearshift hole to keep crud from falling in as the trans scrapes along the underside of the tunnel. I just use heavy plastic sheet secured with a rubber band.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
- And if you are using a "cherry picker", it's tough to get the legs under the front of the car if it's sitting that low.
Good point. Will be using a engine hoist and it does have its leg spread wide open which will need to dig under the car.


I have found that the engine/trans will come out with the car level if the gear lever stub is removed. Just doing that makes a big difference.

When you remove the gear lever stub, be sure to cover the gearshift hole to keep crud from falling in as the trans scrapes along the underside of the tunnel. I just use heavy plastic sheet secured with a rubber band.
When removing the gear lever stub, will there be parts falling from inside the trans ?

The trans scrapes along the underside :surprise: . Will I end up with a scratched underside ? I read a lot of threads about engine/gearbox removal and nowhere did I read that the underside will be scratched..
 

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Agree that engine/trans removal is easier with the car tipped that way. BUT:

- If you are using a hoist fixed to your garage ceiling (instead of a "cherry picker"), you aren't going to be able to roll the car backward as the engine comes out with the back end is up on jackstands.

- And if you are using a "cherry picker", it's tough to get the legs under the front of the car if it's sitting that low.
Good point, Jay. It's been a decade since I took out the tranny and engine together and I don't remember how we got around the hoist leg issue. On the other hand, when pulling the engine alone, I park each front wheel on a couple pieces of 2x4, to raise the car 3 inches (Not modern math; modern 2x4s). Then the hoist easily slides under, despite the car's normally low stance.
 

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\When removing the gear lever stub, will there be parts falling from inside the trans ?
Yes, you do need to disassemble it carefully. There are shims on either side of the gear lever pivot - you don't want those falling down into the gearbox. And you need to keep track of which shims were on the left, which were on the right.

The trans scrapes along the underside :surprise: . Will I end up with a scratched underside ? I read a lot of threads about engine/gearbox removal and nowhere did I read that the underside will be scratched..
Gee, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I suppose if you have a team of helpers, you might be able to avoid any drivetrain to body contact. And of course, put pads/rags/cardboard over areas you don't want scratched. But yea, the paint is fragile, the engine/trans is heavy, and you have to shoehorn it out - a recipe for some scratching.

Gary Williams said:
when pulling the engine alone, I park each front wheel on a couple pieces of 2x4, to raise the car 3 inches .... Then the hoist easily slides under, despite the car's normally low stance.
OK. This depends a bit on the design of the hoist that you are using. When I help my friend pull his engine (he uses a hoist on wheels, while I use a chainfall fixed to the ceiling), the legs on his hoist are exactly the width of the Alfa's front track. In other words, we have to remove the car's front wheels and put the front on stands to allow the hoist legs to pass underneath. A hoist with narrower leg spacing would make the operation simpler.
 

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I had no idea leg width varied so much on rolling hoists. I borrow a chunky hoist from a neighbor who used to play with Chevy V8s. It works great, except when I load it into my tractor's bucket to take it back and don't lash it down properly. Fortunately, it bashed the tractor's hood and not the Alfa. Oh well, I guess old Ford tractors are supposed to look like they've been used.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
It seems that the head was pulled out in the recent past as it looks cleaner from the rest of the engine and gearbox

 
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