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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all

After a long battle with a sticky clutch problems, I have decided to split the gearbox from the engine and check/replace whatever is needed.

After long searching and reading on this forum, the general consensus is to remove the engine and gearbox as one unit. Is there a thread or guide where I can know what is needed to remove as one unit. I did a search but I wasn't able to find a step by step guide or a full list of what needs removing.

Some questions I have :

Do I need to remove the slave or just unbolt the rubber hose from hard clutch line attached to car ?
Do I unbolt the idler from body or should I pop the arm off the bottom of the steering box, what about the anti roll bar ?
I will be using an engine crane, do I leave the engine lift bracket in original position, move it to another position or get a second one, install them on both ends and use a load balancer ?
Do I need to remove the carbs, carb trumpets, brake servo/master, alternator, starter ?
Do I need to remove the radiator, shroud or just the fan ?


Thank you


http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1330154&stc=1&d=1504622931
 

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Hey all

After a long battle with a sticky clutch problems, I have decided to split the gearbox from the engine and check/replace whatever is needed.

After long searching and reading on this forum, the general consensus is to remove the engine and gearbox as one unit. Is there a thread or guide where I can know what is needed to remove as one unit. I did a search but I wasn't able to find a step by step guide or a full list of what needs removing.

Some questions I have :

Do I need to remove the slave or just unbolt the rubber hose from hard clutch line attached to car ? I wound up uncoupling the rubber hose from the hardline, located at the center of the back of the engine supporting main strut. The slave cylinder snap rings were nearly impossible to get loose, working with it on the engine.
Do I unbolt the idler from body or should I pop the arm off the bottom of the steering box, what about the anti roll bar ? Swaybar stays, the steering link needs to be decoupled and dropped on one side. I took it loose at the steering arm.
I will be using an engine crane, do I leave the engine lift bracket in original position, move it to another position or get a second one, install them on both ends and use a load balancer ? Center of the engine, but you will wind up tilting the combined engine/transmission nearly 45 degrees... Fluids out??
Do I need to remove the carbs, carb trumpets, brake servo/master, alternator, starter ?Carbs yes, alternator no, starter no, brakes no
Do I need to remove the radiator, shroud or just the fan ?Whole radiator comes out.
Engine ground strap, RPM cable, Speedometer cable, alternator and starter cables, heater hoses, various temperature & pressure sensor wires.
BAG and TAG everything - bolts & nuts


Thank you


http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1330154&stc=1&d=1504622931
If you can lay hands on it, the Engine Overhaul manual has a very nice step by step guide... with pictures.
 

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My mechanic thought it good to remove the engine without the gearbox. My comment: don't do it.

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My mechanic thought it good to remove the engine without the gearbox. My comment: don't do it.

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
I don't know why. At the beginning of my Ti Super build, I had the engine in and out 3 times before deciding to fit a freshly rebuilt motor. I took the engine out on it's own each time.
Much less weight to deal with.
The only thing you need to remember is to undo the two a/r bar mounts (the ones on the crossmember), swing it down out of the way, detach the centre steering drag link and swing it out of the way, and put a trolley jack under the gearbox before you separate it from the engine. Once the a/r bar is out of the way, there's enough room to do a straight pull and lift.
Way easier in my mind, (no messing with detaching the propshaft, gearbox mount, speedo cable etc.
I use a fixed point old style chain hoist from a joist in my garage roof. I just pull the engine forward, lift it with the hoist to clear the front panel, and push the car back.
Dead simple.
Leave the box where it is if it's ok, and there's no reason to inspect it.
In the past, I've even taken the engine out to fit a new clutch. Never took it off the hoist. Rested it on a stout wooden box, changed the clutch, and back in. Much easier when a lift isn't available than scrabbling under the car.

Steve
 

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Since you are worried about clutch issues, why not just remove the gearbox?

Been there and done that. Not hard.
Pete
 

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Well I'm still on the 9th of my seven years of bad luck spell, so may be it's personal misfortune. But not being a mechanic I can tell you that the spider's engine and gearbox went out whole in less than an hour

Whereas the coupe's engine only approach took a couple of days to figure out how to clear the a/r and whatever was disagreeing with it down there.


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Few questions on this forum have generated more discussion than "should I remove the engine and transmissuon as a unit or...?".
FWIW, I have tried it both ways and have found that I abuse the sheetmetal of the engine bay, the car, and engine itself less when I remove the trans. first., then the engine. Mainly because I usually work alone.
No matter which way you choose to approach the job, the following applies:
Try to drop only one end of the steering cross link and swivel it out of the way.
If the clutch slave can be removed by removing only the rear snap ring, that is preferable as you won't have to later bleed the clutch.
No matter how hard you try to avoid it the radiator is always susceptible to damage- remove it, it's only two bolts, and gives lots more room to maneuver.
Use padding, and lots of it along the tops of the fenders and all 4 sides of the engine bay unless you don't care and you actually enjoy paint and body work.
Just my 2 cents..
 

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I might be missing something here but this thread started as a clutch inspection/fix... SOP is to pull the tranny according to every manual I have seen and leave the motor in the car... It's really not a such big deal with a lift handy. I've done it lying on my back in younger years. The trickiest part was feeding the spline of the pilot shaft back in which always resulted in a AAAAAAHAAAA moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The obvious route would be to remove gearbox, replace clutch and fit gearbox back in place.

I bought the car late last year and it didn't come with any engine maintenance history, so it is a good excuse to pull out the engine and get it refreshed internally and externally.
 

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I take out only what I need to; engine or trans or both. Engine out the top. Engine/trans out the top. Trans alone out the bottom. To each his own, but I don't see the point of doing more than is needed. On a 105/115 car it's pretty easy to do just what you need.
Andrew
 

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I would remove the trans only for a clutch. Should be straightforward and there are good links on how to do it.

If you have to work on the motor I would suggest removing both - either the trans, then motor, or both at once.

Re-install as one. This is where pulling only the engine can be a real pain. Lining up the engine with the trans in place is a real PITA. Possible but a pain.

Generally I've learned that while it seems like more work to remove things it saves time and frustration.
 

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Gary,

Great information. Too cold in Oklahoma for no heater and hoses.

You wouldn't happen to have done this for a 101 Spider, as well, would you?

Thanks,

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have spent a few days working a couple of hours every time, and i can tell you that I am glad I will be removing the engine.

The engine and everything under there is filthy and it was worth removing just for the clean. For instance i though the face of the crank pulley was flat where in fact it was filled with gunk mixed with dirt, I put in screw driver and it went in about 2" in. Some of the bolts/nuts where so covered in this stuff that I didn't know they where there. Clearly the engine was never cleaned in its life. Castle nuts on the ball joints had to be cleaned with brake cleaner just to be able to see the cotter pins. No wonder I couldn't time the engine when I replaced the distributor. Link

I had to tear the intake rubber mounts, as they were frozen to the carbs. The 6 bolts between the exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhaust were the worse to reach. Upon removing the exhaust manifold from the head, i noticed that I had 7 nuts and one bolt :exclamation: Shouldn't all be studs fixed to head and nuts on the other side ?

The only things left should be under the car. Speedo Cable. earth strap, slave cylinder, gearbox mount, and the worse part is to separate the prop shaft from the gearbox (rubber doughnut). The bolts are seized and there is no room for a ratchet bit to get around the bolt/nut, they must be undone with a open ended spanner which can round the head. I've been socking them with WD40 and Wurth anti rust every time I visit.

One question.
I have two engine hoist brackets, one attached to the engine and a spare. Should I install these at each end of the engine and use an engine leveler, or just use one and move it on the second row towards the front of car ? I will be getting out engine with gearbox.
 

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I have two engine hoist brackets, one attached to the engine and a spare. Should I install these at each end of the engine and use an engine leveler, or just use one and move it on the second row towards the front of car ? I will be getting out engine with gearbox.
Just use one and move it on the second row towards the front of car. As long as you are removing the engine & trans as a unit, pulling from the second pair of head studs will position the engine & trans at just about the right angle. The Alfa engine & trans are light enough to allow you to manually tip them up/down slightly to maneuver around obstacles.
 
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