Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
is it possible to remove the motor whilst leaving the gearbox in the car?

i think its going to be easier to remove the heads, timing gear, manifolds etc while the engine is supported in the car at a reasonable working height.

that will leave just the block which i am hoping to slide forward and out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Not entirely sure, but the thing to look out for will be the studs that are on the rear engine housing which connect the gearbox to the engine, they are quite long, so to remove the block you have to be able to shift it forwards by at least the length of the studs, maybe a bit more and personally I dont think there is quite enough room for the block to go this far forwards, removing the crank pulley will free up some space too.
Apart from the bast*rd drive shaft bolts, taking the whole unit out in one go isnt that much work, and leaving in the gearbox only saves 10% of the work.
As far as taking the heads off in the car, it can be done quite easily, but re torqueing the head bolts in the car is a biaartch to say the leased.

I say drop the lot! :D Keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I have done gearbox only, but if you are taking the motor out, you are going to have to take the big bolt out that holds both motor and gearbox up, and are going to have some fun supporting the box while fiddling around trying to pull the motor forward. (And there's not much room to come forward either!)

I'm with 77sudTi on this one, I'd drop the lot if needing the motor out.

Very best of luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
On a sud (I have not attempted this on a sprint or 33), you can remove the engine without the gearbox, but it's tricky. You have to undo the top mount at the bulkhead and shift the gearbox back enough to clear the bellhousing studs, then the engine will come out the top complete, but only just. You will scratch the paint on the bulkhead, so don't attempt it if your car's a concours contender.

The advantages are you can leave the driveshafts and front suspension connected, or if your car still has inboard brakes, you have to remove the driveshafts anyway (to take off the brake discs, to get to the bellhousing nuts hiding behind) but you can leave the brake lines connected. Usually it's easier to drop the lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
On a sud (I have not attempted this on a sprint or 33), you can remove the engine without the gearbox, but it's tricky. You have to undo the top mount at the bulkhead and shift the gearbox back enough to clear the bellhousing studs, then the engine will come out the top complete, but only just. You will scratch the paint on the bulkhead, so don't attempt it if your car's a concours contender.

The advantages are you can leave the driveshafts and front suspension connected, or if your car still has inboard brakes, you have to remove the driveshafts anyway (to take off the brake discs, to get to the bellhousing nuts hiding behind) but you can leave the brake lines connected. Usually it's easier to drop the lot.
thanks for the good advice and so much for that idea:(
the top stud 77sudti also mentioned is 70mm long. and i have the inboard disks too.

i have been doing some preperation work and wondering what valve clearances people recomend. i find the book clearances .35-.40 intake and .45-.50 exhaust to be to large and noisy.
i reckon about .25mm intake and .3mm exhaust?
i just did the valves on my crown and they were .1 intake and .16 exhaust
 

Attachments

·
Registered
`61 Giulietta Spider, `65 Giulia Ti 1750, `69 GT junior 1600, `73 Spider 2000, `74 GTV 2000, `98 156
Joined
·
1,875 Posts
By no means deviate from the factory given clearances-just use the lowest values. Compared to a Toyota Crown they are a noisey engine but in a Sud with its bulkhead, induction noise etc you won`t hear valve noise in the cabin once underway.
regarding the followers and bores leave alone-hopefully you have labelled them so each goes back to where it came from. If you find a step on the bucket you can use 1000-1500 grade wet and dry to remove the lip but keep rubbing down to a minimum.

Richard J

`65 Giulia Ti , `69 GT Junior, `74 GTV 2000, `76 Alfetta GTV, `77 Alfetta GTV, `81 Alfasud Ti, `84 GTV6.
 

·
Registered
`61 Giulietta Spider, `65 Giulia Ti 1750, `69 GT junior 1600, `73 Spider 2000, `74 GTV 2000, `98 156
Joined
·
1,875 Posts
Just noticed in your pics back of buckets and oil on bench looks pretty dirty. Are you changing your oil according to service recommendations and using decent stuff?

Regards
Richard J
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top