74 Spider 78 Spider 84 Spider
and a reason to remove that hose before tackling the mounts......you need to raise the engine a fair bit and that hose will get stretched, worst case it will split.Just did the driver's mount this Sunday...Now the intake hose does not reach...tells you how much the mounts had collapsed.
Jim,I just reread through this thread and one of my post either disappeared or never got posted.
For the most part follow the instructions in the first post. But do the suggestions below.
When you do motor mounts remove the drivers side and leave it OFF. Now go do the passenger side. By leaving the drivers side off this will give you a lot of room to push the engine over to the drivers side making it easier by giving you more room to get the mount off and on. Once done with the passenger side and its all tightened up install the drivers side.
In the hundreds I have replaced I have never removed the plenum on any model.
The rectangular mounts that Classic Alfa sells are much better then the round ones which are made by Akron. They also last much longer. Back in the day Pirelli made the rectangular mounts and they lasted at least twice as long as the oem mounts.
Also I posted this before. But one of the base plates on the Akron brand is bonded rotated slightly off center. Making it much harder to get the bolt in.
A good Alfa tech should only be charging 3.5 hours to replace both motor mounts. One hour for the drivers and 2.5 for the left. So if you beat that time by at least 30 minutes. You might have missed your calling in life.
I rarely removed the plenum bracket. Every once in awhile I would have to.Jim,
I paid very close attention to your post; I am just now doing the mounts on my '87 Spider. As you suggested, I left the driver's side suspended and then took loose the passenger side mount. I like that I can now move the engine for some extra clearance.
QUESTION: In your experience, did you have to loosen/unbolt the bracket where it attaches to the plenum? Or did you just leave it as-is and use the extra clearance to wiggle the support bracket out of the mount? If so, did you just sort of navigate the bracket back into the new mount and then tighten everything down?
Also- the rear 13mm nut that attaches the mount to the engine block....what tool? I can't get an "S" wrench, socket, nothing around it. What did you use?
Thanks and much blessings to you....
Thanks....I rarely removed the plenum bracket. Every once in awhile I would have to.
I've always used the Snap On S wrench and also the Snap On 1/4" drive universal 13mm socket on a wobble extension. Snap On's sockets and wrenches tend to be a lot thinner on the outside compared to store bought brands. You can grind the outside diameter of the wrench down to get it in there.
A wobble extension is an extension that allows some angular movement of the socket at the end:Thanks....
What exactly is a "wobble" extension..?
I've always known Snap-On to be the choice that pros use; for many reasons including what you said about the thinner walls I suppose. I have a big mix of vintage Craftsman stuff and other brands, but very little Snap-On.
I do have some1/4inch sockets with a built-in universal swivel; is that what you are talking about? but what is the"wobble" extension?
thanks again...I appreciate your input and experience
Yes...very much so!! Thanks; I've worked on my cars all my life and never knew about these. glad to see Harbor Freight carries them; I'll stop byA wobble extension is an extension that allows some angular movement of the socket at the end:
Hoe this helps- Jeff
no need to drain all the coolant.For anyone removing the Plenum, do you also have to drain the coolant? I have a 1990 S3 Spider, and it appears that there are coolant hoses that attach to the top. Thanks!