did not think about that but it's a simple solution. but in my case, the old bracket had a huge crack across the top. 47 years of metal fatigue.
Engine mount replacement for the dummies
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One more tool recommendation for this job: wobbly extensions. They allow you to work with long extensions from below when you don't have a straight shot at the bolt/nut you want to remove. They don't suffer from the floppiness of a universal joint socket adapter. Very satisfying.
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Getting around to doing my 84 now. I had recently installed a fan shroud and found that the fan now grinds on the shroud...yep...collapsed mounts.
Just did the driver's mount this Sunday...Now the intake hose does not reach...tells you how much the mounts had collapsed. Hopefully it will reach again once I do the right side mount.
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Just did the driver's mount this Sunday...Now the intake hose does not reach...tells you how much the mounts had collapsed. Hopefully it will reach again once I do the right side mount.
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Was able to swap mounts without removing the plenum this time. I thought it was a big win until I tried buttoning up the passenger side bracket between the plenum and the engine. For some reason, I can only get either the 13mm bolt attaching the bracket to the engine or one of the 17mm bolts from the bracket to the plenum. I've tried loosening the clamps on the rubber air intake connectors, but still no joy.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance- Jeff
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance- Jeff
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10,988 Posts
and a reason to remove that hose before tackling the mounts......you need to raise the engine a fair bit and that hose will get stretched, worst case it will split.
have to remove the filter box to reach the mount so it's disconnected anyway...
Adding to this excellent thread. I apologize if some of this info is redundant.
The aft 17mm bolt that attaches thru the plenum support bracket and threads into the plenum casting is really difficult to remove/reinstall. I used a 17mm crows foot on a 20” 3/8 socket extension to drive the fastener out/in. Lots of patience required due to small turns but it works. When the plenum support bracket was out, I enlarged the fastener clear holes to make getting the plenum fasteners back in more easily. I removed the intake plenum assembly completely to gain access to the passenger mount. It was not as bad as it looks. On reassembly, getting the plenum bracket clear holes aligned to the threaded fastener holes in the plenum casting is a challenge. From under the car, I was able to see the alignment of the bracket clear hole to the threaded plenum hole. I could see that the alignment was off and no amount of trying to get the fastener started was going to work. With a long slender pointed rod, I was able insert the pointed tip into the threaded plenum hole and bump the plenum bracket clear hole over enough to be able to get the fastener started. Also, there is a very stiff hose AC that passes in front of access to the aft 17mm plenum bracket fastener. I used a cord to tie this hose outboard and out of the way prior to reassembly.
My car is an S4 USA version. For this model, the passenger mount incorporates a threaded flange to provide an anchor point for a starter motor support. I recycled the upper half of the mount and scalped the lower rubber portion from a new mount. If you have this situation, this is your best option. There is an entire thread dedicated to the S4 passenger motor mounts with photos you will want to read.
The aft 17mm bolt that attaches thru the plenum support bracket and threads into the plenum casting is really difficult to remove/reinstall. I used a 17mm crows foot on a 20” 3/8 socket extension to drive the fastener out/in. Lots of patience required due to small turns but it works. When the plenum support bracket was out, I enlarged the fastener clear holes to make getting the plenum fasteners back in more easily. I removed the intake plenum assembly completely to gain access to the passenger mount. It was not as bad as it looks. On reassembly, getting the plenum bracket clear holes aligned to the threaded fastener holes in the plenum casting is a challenge. From under the car, I was able to see the alignment of the bracket clear hole to the threaded plenum hole. I could see that the alignment was off and no amount of trying to get the fastener started was going to work. With a long slender pointed rod, I was able insert the pointed tip into the threaded plenum hole and bump the plenum bracket clear hole over enough to be able to get the fastener started. Also, there is a very stiff hose AC that passes in front of access to the aft 17mm plenum bracket fastener. I used a cord to tie this hose outboard and out of the way prior to reassembly.
My car is an S4 USA version. For this model, the passenger mount incorporates a threaded flange to provide an anchor point for a starter motor support. I recycled the upper half of the mount and scalped the lower rubber portion from a new mount. If you have this situation, this is your best option. There is an entire thread dedicated to the S4 passenger motor mounts with photos you will want to read.
Jim,
I paid very close attention to your post; I am just now doing the mounts on my '87 Spider. As you suggested, I left the driver's side suspended and then took loose the passenger side mount. I like that I can now move the engine for some extra clearance.
QUESTION: In your experience, did you have to loosen/unbolt the bracket where it attaches to the plenum? Or did you just leave it as-is and use the extra clearance to wiggle the support bracket out of the mount? If so, did you just sort of navigate the bracket back into the new mount and then tighten everything down?
Also- the rear 13mm nut that attaches the mount to the engine block....what tool? I can't get an "S" wrench, socket, nothing around it. What did you use?
Thanks and much blessings to you....
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I rarely removed the plenum bracket. Every once in awhile I would have to.
I've always used the Snap On S wrench and also the Snap On 1/4" drive universal 13mm socket on a wobble extension. Snap On's sockets and wrenches tend to be a lot thinner on the outside compared to store bought brands. You can grind the outside diameter of the wrench down to get it in there.
Thanks....
What exactly is a "wobble" extension..?
I've always known Snap-On to be the choice that pros use; for many reasons including what you said about the thinner walls I suppose. I have a big mix of vintage Craftsman stuff and other brands, but very little Snap-On.
I do have some1/4inch sockets with a built-in universal swivel; is that what you are talking about? but what is the"wobble" extension?
thanks again...I appreciate your input and experience
Vic
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370 Posts
A wobble extension is an extension that allows some angular movement of the socket at the end:
3/8 in. Drive Impact Wobble Socket Extension Set, 3 Pc.
Amazing deals on this 3Pc 3/8In Impact Wobble Socket Extensions at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Hoe this helps- Jeff
Yes...very much so!! Thanks; I've worked on my cars all my life and never knew about these. glad to see Harbor Freight carries them; I'll stop byA wobble extension is an extension that allows some angular movement of the socket at the end:
3/8 in. Drive Impact Wobble Socket Extension Set, 3 Pc.
Amazing deals on this 3Pc 3/8In Impact Wobble Socket Extensions at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Hoe this helps- Jeff
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7,068 Posts
Capri Tools 1/4-Inch Drive Wobble Extension Bar Set, 5-Piece - - Amazon.com
Capri Tools 1/4-Inch Drive Wobble Extension Bar Set, 5-Piece - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Thanks Jim-Capri Tools 1/4-Inch Drive Wobble Extension Bar Set, 5-Piece - - Amazon.com
Capri Tools 1/4-Inch Drive Wobble Extension Bar Set, 5-Piece - - Amazon.comwww.amazon.com
Today I finally got the passenger mount out...
In the end I used the "S" wrenches....what made the difference was your suggestion to let the engine hang loose...I also had to remove the bracket, but that was no big deal. Letting the engine hang loose makes all the difference in the world- I can move it side to side; or up and down, whatever I need to do to make everything fit and come together. I was able to get to the bracket much easier just by raising the engine. But once the bracket was out, everything flowed.
Thanks again-
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no need to drain all the coolant.
either clamp or quickly block off those 2 hoses when you slip them off.
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Thanks!
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