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Keemosabe,

Congrats on the motor mount change. Its a right of passage!

Now that you did that, looks like you need to change the OVS hose shown in the picture. Looks like its leaking and some PO tried a poor fix by using a zip tie.

It just pulls off at the block as shown (might have small clamp) and at the bottom of the OVS.

I took mine into Napa, told them its for oil and got a new hose cut to length. I think it was under $5 or so.

Pushed new one on.

Congrats again.

Vin
 

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1991 Spider Veloce, 2017 Giulia Ti
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Yep, saw that, thanks Vin. I plan to replace vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, belts etc. and that hose and clamp will be another one. Going to maybe do a road trip this summer/fall and anything I can do preventatively now during mothball season I hope to get done.
 

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well done Keemosabe! (Tonto will be proud of you;))

When you have the tranny mount renewed as well, it'll feel a different car.

oh, and talking of that little OVS hose, put 20cl oil into it when you replace it, as an alfa TSB recommends, each time it is removed.
Dom
 

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It just pulls off at the block as shown (might have small clamp) and at the bottom of the OVS.
It certainly wouldn't hurt to put a small clamp on it, but just for reference all of those little hoses (original) on my car are just a slip fit over the barbed nipples.

edit: oh, and nicely done, Keemosabe!
 

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1991 Spider Veloce, 2017 Giulia Ti
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Thanks guys. Love the Tonto reference. I highjacked my boat name for my handle (Keemosabe). It's been a satisfying experience.
So closing in on the final steps of this rite of passsge....is there a T shirt? Ya know like "I conquered the Mounts" with an image of an engine and the mounts. ?
 

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1991 Spider Veloce, 2017 Giulia Ti
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A quick update. I finished up the Spruell motor mounts, very happy with the way they went in. Took some clamps and wrangling to get the sump guard back on, but I expected that having read this thread thru. All in all not that bad getting it back using the clamps. Net result, I have huge clearance between the sump guard and the sump fins compared to when I started. I haven't driven it yet, still on the ramps till I get the lower radiator hose done.
The trans mount popped out pretty easy with a puller and the 1.5" pipe cap. Awesome tip! It was intact but very soft. I replaced it with the Spruell more rigid mount. Getting the new mount back in proved harder than getting the old out. In retrospect, maybe doing the trans mount first with the old sagged and soft motor mounts may have been easier. Eventually I got the new one started straight and then used another BB tip using a piece of 1/2" all thread/washers/pipe flanges and a ratcheting box wrench to pull it in. Since the mount needs to be recessed slightly into the aluminum on each side, I drilled the pipe cap and used it to pull the last fraction of an inch into the ring. Perfect! the new more rigid mount has the metal tube for the bolt closer to center, so I drilled the pipe cap thru the center a bit oversized for the 1/2" all thread. The thru bolt went in perfectly and the 4 bolts holding the support plate up also lined up easily. I'm totally happy that I could do this myself, even with my limited automotive mechanical experience. Huge thanks to all who have posted on this and all topics on the BB. Oh, and as Vin had said the OVS hose was leaking and had a rigged repair with a wire tie from a PO. I replaced the hose with new rated for oil/fuel. Turns out the leak may have been more because the nipple that threads into the block was loose. Removed it cleaned it, a drop of sealer and tightened it up before the new hose was put on. I cleaned a lot of oil and gunk off the bottom end of the engine, especially the sump fins. In normal use I get a few drops of oil after running the car on the garage floor. Based on where the most oil seems to be, I'm guessing cigarette seals are leaking....Think I read someplace that someone sealed the bolt threads with something vs. complete engine removal and replacement??? Sound familiar to anybody? I'd love to be able to stop any more leaking and gunking stuff up all over again. Thanks again guys, truly appreciate the help!
:thumbup1:
Bob
 

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A quick update. I finished up the Spruell motor mounts, very happy with the way they went in. ...... Net result, I have huge clearance between the sump guard and the sump fins compared to when I started.
Bob
Hi Bob,

Congratulations! Looks great and wait till you driver her! Feels so much smoother.

Is that your horn hanging down? The big red thing?

Congrats again,

Vin
 

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1991 Spider Veloce, 2017 Giulia Ti
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Yep, have a set of Fiam air horns in addition to the stock horns. Discrete toggle switch under the dash to select. Just for fun!
 

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1991 Spider Veloce, 2017 Giulia Ti
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So here's a quick update on he motor mount and transmission mount work. After driving the "new car" WOW! I just went from a couch slouch to what feels like a rocket! I know, its probably no change in acceleration due to the mounts, but I did replace the plugs, wires cap and rotor too. I have to learn to drive it all over again, I can downshift to 2nd without gritting my teeth! SO much more drivable. Little more vibration, but not objectionable, in fact it feels faster! :)
 

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So, finally finished the engine mount replacement on my '91 S4. Did the driver's side in winter by myself and took about 3 hours. Not too bad. The passenger side had to wait since I needed help. Started last Saturday and put in 3 hours and just got all the bolts loosened. Resumed yesterday and another 6 hours to complete the job with in my opinion an Alfa expert, Papajam. Even with his expert help , guidance and massive took kit it was a b...tch!!! The S4 has so many hoses especially the A/C line that makes it nearly impossible to work on the passenger side mount. We finally decided to flip the plenum (see photos) and even with that out of the way the removal of the support was nightmarish. Add to that putting the accelerator linkage on the wrong side (sbagliamo) of the support added to to the degree of difficulty hence the garden tool photo. Hope I never have to do this again but the car is shifting beautifully and ready for the warm weather.
 

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With these 2 wrenches, a short 1/4 ratchet, short extension, 1/4 13mm universal socket and a couple of different length 13mm wrenches is all you need to do the motor mounts.

The 13/14mm wrench you will have to find on ebay or used somewhere. Snap on made this model years ago for the air cooled Volkswagens.
Hey Jim G,

Want to confirm this point: you recommend having 2 (two) 13mm obstruction wrenches. Correct?

Thank
 

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Try the Kobalt ratcheting wrenches instead

Don't want to hijack your question, but I used the Kobalt ratcheting wrenches mentioned elsewhere in this thread instead of the nifty Snap-Ons that JimG used. They work beautifully. One side of the offending fastener was always reachable with a regular wrench, so I did not need two sets. Link here: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-Piece-Metric-Standard-Ratchet-Wrench-Set/3367222

Good luck with your job.
 

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Plenum Removal

Not to violate the "if it ain't broke, don't mess with it rule". I haunt the "Auto Insurance Auction Sites" and note we lose as many (maybe more) Alfa's to engine fires as we do to accidents!! Suspect the 2ish inch fuel lines (from the rail to the injector) are the culprit!! Would suggest removing the plenum will not only make the motor mount job easier, but allow replacing those "burst potential" fuel lines!!! For your consideration!!
 

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Hey Jim G,

Want to confirm this point: you recommend having 2 (two) 13mm obstruction wrenches. Correct?

Thank
Really just the 13/14mm S wrench is all you need. But you will have to find on Ebay or someplace like that. Snap On quit making it years ago. They made it for the air cooled Volkswagen mechanics. As almost every nut and bolt is a 13 or 14.

The other S wrench is still made by Snap On. As you can tell from the picture its a little smaller then the other one. It works but not as well as the other one.

There are a couple listed on Ebay right now for 25.00 with free shipping.
 
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I just reread through this thread and one of my post either disappeared or never got posted.

For the most part follow the instructions in the first post. But do the suggestions below.

When you do motor mounts remove the drivers side and leave it OFF. Now go do the passenger side. By leaving the drivers side off this will give you a lot of room to push the engine over to the drivers side making it easier by giving you more room to get the mount off and on. Once done with the passenger side and its all tightened up install the drivers side.

In the hundreds I have replaced I have never removed the plenum on any model.

The rectangular mounts that Classic Alfa sells are much better then the round ones which are made by Akron. They also last much longer. Back in the day Pirelli made the rectangular mounts and they lasted at least twice as long as the oem mounts.

Also I posted this before. But one of the base plates on the Akron brand is bonded rotated slightly off center. Making it much harder to get the bolt in.

A good Alfa tech should only be charging 3.5 hours to replace both motor mounts. One hour for the drivers and 2.5 for the left. So if you beat that time by at least 30 minutes. You might have missed your calling in life.
 

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Crank pulley kissing sway bar, but it isn't engine mounts

I had the crank pulley kissing the sway bar, but my engine mounts are new Spruell HD mounts. I didn't have this symptom last season, so I'm wondering where else I can check to find the root cause of this issue. I didn't see anything amiss under the hood, but the pulley is shiny and sway bar is scratched.

I've only had the car about two years, and successfully completed a head gasket replacement last winter. I'm not sure what could have been bumped/moved/mis-aligned as a part of that job, but since the pulley issue showed up since that job I figured I'd mention it. Thank you!
 

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I had the crank pulley kissing the sway bar, but my engine mounts are new Spruell HD mounts. I didn't have this symptom last season, so I'm wondering where else I can check to find the root cause of this issue.
so you are saying that after the new spruell hard mounts all was good for a season, but then the pulley started to scratch the sway bar again?
very odd.
.....and sway bar mounts haven't come loose or anything wierd like that? (though I am not sure even if they did the bar would rise...??)

I cannot think of anything else that would cause that apart from the mounts gone again...fairly unlikely in one season.
And a head gasket job would have no influence, the block doesn't move during that job!
 

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Sway bar is tight, bushings are only a couple years old. This car does have the double pulley, so I think I can change it with a single pulley to resolve the symptom... but I don’t know what the true cause of this issue is that caused the symptom. I’d rather know what changed from last year than cover it up!
 

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I just finished doing the engine mounts on my 86 Spider with AC. It
was a ***** of a job. I started out following Sapilot143's excellent
instructions. I got as far as removing the top bolts and nuts holding
the intake to the bracket but doing the rest just seemed impossible
with my big, mutant hands. I went ahead and removed the plenum.

Removing the plenum isn't too bad. There is one hose on the rear side
that didn't pry off easily and I realized it's a attached to a small
plate that is mounted on the plenum with 2 allen head bolts. This
plate should be removed by taking out the allen head bolts rather than
trying to pry the hose off. I was careful to label everything so
putting all the hoses back on was easy.

Snapping the linkage back together was tricky because of limited
access put I was able to get it done by getting pliers around it and
clicking them into place.

I'm glad I took the plenum off because I can't imagine how I could
have completed the job with it in place even if others were able to.

The hardest part of the job was getting the 2 bolts that attach the
dog bone mount to the bottom of the plenum back in. I spent over 3
hours on this alone. The key was loosening all the bolts that hold it
in place and then prying it from the top with a long screwdriver until
the holes lined up and I could get the bolts in using a long extension
from the bottom.

The sump guard required a clamp for one of the bolts but wasn't too
hard.

The car drives and shifts better, but my car only has 35k miles so
it wasn't a radical improvement.

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