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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,
just posted this on the Aussie forums but thought I would go for the international opinion too... (will also post in the engine section :) )

Hi Folks,
I finally got my 3.0 out of storage and it is sitting on a pallet in my shed awaiting my undying attention. I bought the engine sight unseen. I was told when i bought it that it was from a running 75 that got totalled. It is from Qld Brizvegas so I guess I want to check that it is not a flood damaged wreck - what should I look for?

It looks like it has not been running for quite some time – took the passenger cam cover off and it smelled a bit like varnish so thinking the internals need a really good flush out – thankfully everything looked straight. I plan on taking the sump out to give that a clean out – what else should be done to get it cleaned up and moving again? I don’t want to have to pull it to bits if it can be avoided – I am trying to not stretch my tech skills beyond their limits just yet.

I understand the size of the main pulley nut is 41mm – how much force is required to crank the engine manually? I intend changing timing belt, tensioner and water pump straight up, but want the engine at TDC – dizzy arm points to #3 at the moment. I can’t see a timing mark on the main pulley – is it cast/stamped into it or a painted mark? The pulley is surface rusted.

Also, engine came minus starter and alternator – keen for an alternator upgrade – any suggestions? Starter motor source?

There will be a guaranteed **** load more questions – can already think of a number, but figure so long as I take my time and do my research (with the kindly assistance of your good selves), it should all be good!
Cheers
Marty
 

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If the engine was supposed to be good just bolt the sucker in and run it. If it runs ok then service it. Until you run the thing you wont know what needs to be changed however you might want to consider changing the rear main seal before the install. Is the rear main seal wet?
With the plugs out it should turn pretty easy however with the plugs in you will be fighting the compression so it will require a little effort.
Personally I don't understand why people get so hell bent on upgrading the alternator when the standard item works just fine if the electrical system is in good health and stock. The starter you can use of the engine that's in the car otherwise just phone the local alfa wreckers. As I said if the engine was supposed to be good just leave it alone.
 

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If you don't care, just put it in and run it. It will work or it won't.

If you care about the engine and doing a good job, put the engine on a stand and pull the lower pans and pull a main cap and look at a bearing to get a general idea of condition. You can also clean out the oil pump and pan gunk.

Also replace the belt and tensioner
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK - so I have started tinkering - cleaning off 25 years of grot and crap. Every thing looks straight under the cam covers. Got my 41mm socket from the UK and tried to crank by hand using my breaker bar. Zero movement. Also, took the oil filter off. Had plenty of liquid, but it sure as **** isn't any oil I am familiar with - runny like water, smelling somewhere between petrol and varnish and highly flammable. I don't know what to make of it. but I am guessing that might have something to do with the failure to crank? Any thoughts? Suggested strategies? I bought the engine intending as a straight swap in - not intending to do a full tear down. Anyone have thoughts on how that might still be achieved? Beginning to think I bought myself a bit of a dud...
 

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1) Obviously, zero movement is not good. Especially with a breaker on it.

2) with the smells and no normal oil.

This will need a full tear down and rebuild and you would be lucky to salvage the liners. Might be a minimal as rusted rings...
 

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I'd suggest pulling the oil pan and a main cap or two - this will give you a better idea of the internals at not much risk (pan gasket)
 
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