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My engine is ready to put back in my 2600 Spider after a complete rebuild by Besic Motorsports. I looked at the posts but I am wondering about a couple things to make the whole process as easy as possible. I see that installing the rear transmission mount on the transmission and filling the transmission with oil before installing makes things a lot easier. I am wondering what is the best way to handle the engine mounts. Is it easier to connect the mounts to the motor and put the nuts on the studs on the frame or is it easier to leave the mounts on the frame and put the nuts on the studs on the on the motor support? Also, I am wondering about the exhaust manifold. Is it easier to mount it on the engine before putting the engine in place or is it easier to put the engine in and then mount the manifold?
 

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installing the rear transmission mount on the transmission and filling the transmission with oil before installing makes things a lot easier.
By "rear transmission mount" I assume you mean the donut-shaped piece that presses into the hoop at the base of the trans. Yes, install that first. But if you mean the crossmember that the donut bolts to, then no - I think that would just get in the way.

You need to tip the engine-trans almost vertical to thread it in - if the trans has any oil in it, the oil will spill out from the gearshift hole. So it needs to be dry. Plus, it's easy to add oil once the trans is in place but before the shift lever goes on - just pour it down the gearshift hole.

I am wondering what is the best way to handle the engine mounts.
I mount the R side mount to the engine before installation, and add the L once the engine is in place. Be sure to chase the threads on the two studs and two holes that the mounts attach to on the frame - it's a lot easier if you can install that hardware with your fingers. As long as those threads are clean, the mounts aren't so difficult.

Also, I am wondering about the exhaust manifold. Is it easier to mount it on the engine before putting the engine in place or is it easier to put the engine in and then mount the manifold?
You could, but bolting the manifold to the head isn't any harder with the engine in place than with it on the garage floor. And if you pre-mount them, it's one more thing to gouge your paint and block your access to the L motor mount. The key is using 8mm nuts that are 12mm - not 13mm - across the flats. Then you can use a socket on most of the nuts.

The awkward job is attaching the manifold to the downpipe. When installing that hardware, it helps to have two people, one working underhood, the other underneath the car.
 

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The 2600 does not have a bushing in a hoop at the base of the trans. It uses two bushings in the bell housing.

You should pre-install the long bolt and spacer that goes through the two bushings, but the transverse plate that connects these mount bushings to the chassis should be installed after the engine and trans are in place.

I usually install the exhaust manifolds onto the head before installation, but as noted it doesn't make a big difference. In my opinion, more risk of bumping things while trying to install them with engine in the car.

Buy a good quality engine tilter to use in conjunction with your hoistThe 102 and probably 106 uses one stud and one blind nut in the frame to receive the engine mounts. I generally have both mounts on the engine and drop it into place on the one stud on each side.

The 102 uses one stud and one blind nut on the frame that receives the engine mounts. Thus, one installs both mounts on the engine and drop it into place on the single stud.
 

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I remember back in about 1972 when I found a 1959 2000 Touring left alone in a garage. $500. I went to the local Alfa dealer and asked the owner, Joe Locario, about the car. He kept trying to convince me it was a 1300, but once I got through that it was a 2000, he visibly recoiled and said "stay away from it!"

I ignored his advice, of course, but over the years I've observed how much improvement the 105's were over the 102s and 106s. The former were modern 60's thinking, whereas the latter had their roots in the 40's.
 

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2600 Engine installation 3 in 3years

I’ve done 3 2600 engine removal and replacements in the last three years so hopefully I can help.

Firstly you haven’t said if this engine is (a) going into a spotless perfectly restored car or (b) into a good runner in used condition

If (a) don’t try and fit the engine and transmission at the same time as you will probably scratch something. Assuming you have access to a good vehicle hoist and a gearbox jack . Put the engine in first with a minimum of components , then raise the car on the hoist and fit the gearbox from underneath, followed by all ancillary components, takes longer but you can get everything right with minimal risk to paintwork and fittings. There’s a video somewhere on the web of this being done on a concourse aluminum GTA.

If (b) and 56 years old like me, a home mechanic and looking for the minimum amount of time under the car, with no vehicle hoist

First the good news the 2600 engine and box are one of the easiest engines I have ever tried to remove and install. I have done all three engine remove / insert on my own.

To minimise work underneath

The engine and gearbox will remove/install with the following attached .

Gearbox cross member , bolted to gearbox with cross bolt through gearbox tight and cross member level.
Gearbox correctly filled with oil and a plastic bag tied over the gearstick tower to prevent leaks
Inlet manifold but not carbs
Both engine mounts attached to the engine
Water pump

Engine has to tilt to 45 degrees so you need a good hydraulic engine hoist and a long sling to allow the engine tilt. You
Sling engine from eye provide on central cylinder head bolts and drop engine in (it is that simple) ,Slide left hand engine mount on single stud for engine mount, right hand mount will not fit immediately it will sit on top of stud
Loosely bolt on left engine mount, do not attach gearbox crossmember at this time.
Remove sling from lifting eye , position sling on upper portion of RH engine mount above rubber . Lift gently and the RH engine mount will pop onto its stud,
Fit RH engine mount nuts/bolts loosely .
Fit gearbox cross member bolts loosely
Refit sling to mainlifting eye , lift engine to take load of engine mounts, joggle engine so all is square , drop engine back down and tighten all mounting bolts.

If you must use an engine tilter but you do not need one the 2600 engine and box are perfectly balanced for installation. I normally bounce the gearbox tower along the gearbox tunnel. You donot need to raise the car to aid installation


Leave off

Exhaust manifolds as easy to fit later and restrict access to LH engine mount
Carbs as may get banged on installation
Other easy to fit ancillaries – generator etc
 

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94 512TR...

I was the parts manager at Southwest Motors for a while in 73 - 74 (if my memory is working). We had a few 2000 customers then, but Joe's disdain was unrelenting.

In the pic are also Ned Locario, Hank Locario, and Frank Morris. I don't recognize the two in the middle.
 

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John. Is your 102 blue with a wood overlay instrument panel? Trying to figure out which John you are.
 

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Glover?
 

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Don,

You have a great memory

Correct - John Glover

My '59 2000 is blue with a self made wood dash.

I am getting ready to do a total restoration of the car. I just need to find the right place to get it done. I will never get it done unless I get my self out of the loop on doing any of it myself.

John
 

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Wow. You still have the car!!! It's reached a time when investment in restoration makes investment grade sense. My experience with Touring steel treatment and Houston humidity was not good. Interestingly, there's better parts availability now than ever. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Engine Installed

Thanks everyone for the input on best ways to install the engine. Based on the input and my situation, newly restored body, 67 year old body (mine), a two ton engine crane and ample assistance available, I decided to attach the transmission and cross member and engine mounts and take off the carbs and exhaust manifold. The one problem I found with this approach, not surprisingly, is that the engine plus transmission is very unbalanced. The availability of three people to help counteracted that. It really went in quite easily. Only damage was a small scrape on the firewall by the back outlet for the heater hose, easily fixed with touchup paint. Some pictures are shown below.
 

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I'm glad to see you got the engine in the car -- it must feel great!

However, the job might have been easier if the balancer (leveler) was used properly: The picture showing the engine on the hoist shows only the hook on top of the engine was used (hence the slack in one of the chains). The leveler needs two different front-to-back attachment points on the engine in order to change the angle according to the load's center of gravity.
 

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That is a beautiful sight.
 
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