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Discussion Starter #1
I recently got a 1300 GT Junior of 1975. Previous owner told me that engine was replaced with 1600 (actually 1570cc). However engine full number is AR16000*55851 and I cannot find from which model was removed nor any other info. I have a concern regarding correct spares based on engine type. Are all 1570cc engines using the same parts? How this engine can be identified?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
On top of above information I took a picture from the fwd side of the head. It could be a 2.0L engine?? Forgot to mention that I measured compression which was in the range of 205-220 psi in all cylinders! What can be happened?
 

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motor code AR1600 correspond to a 1.6 alfetta from mid ´80s
But with looking at the picture the motor code is AR16000* and not as usual AR01600*
Fusi and Tabucchi do not list such a motor code.
Either Luigi had a bad day with marking this engine, or the guy who fitted this engine to the car marked the engine himself new.


Salutations from the Baltic Sea

Bernhard

OT:
John hope the car with the cams, I sold you, is still running well and that you are not doing to bad with Corona in your place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dear friends it seems that the mystery of my engine identification solved but still I need your knowledge. First of all some facts:
1. The car original was 1300 Junior Gt (105.30)
2. Some time in the past all mechanical system replaced and fitted different engine, gear box and limited slip differential. As per numbers found on the flywheel is an AR 0512 engine (2.0L) and the hole set came from a Berlina 2000 (1971-1975). My engine seems to be made on 1973 which makes sense now. The car has completely modified to Veloce 2000 including appearance details (taillights, bumpers).
3. Unfortunatelly its owner at that time falsified engine number in order to declare it as 1.6L for taxation reasons. Having the engine out of the car with careful observation someone can see that welding patching covered original number, grinded and carved (by mistake) with non existing engine code, so their intension to make it as AR01600 (1.6L Alfetta engine) was done as AR16000 which does not exist.
4. Engine's head came from Alfetta 2.0L with variable timing of intake camshaft thus justifying also the existence of temperature red light sensor aft (not connected).
5. I have now several findings and need your valuable comments as follows... Attached photos supplement my points.
  • Flywheel has small cracks on its friction surface from obvious thermal stress, the clutch disk is not in good condition either. The question is about flywheel, is it recommended to machine it? or need to be replaced anyway? Clutch set will be replaced of course.
  • The condition of beraings in conrods, they are standard size and it seems to has minor wear, would you replace them as far the engine is opened up?
  • The condition of aft cranshaft bearing seems to be moderate, would you replace them as far the engine is opened up?
  • Liners have been honed, obviously, by hand sanding :mad:... I don't like but I don't see some real problem. Am I correct?
  • The head appeared to be in good condition, all cylinders have compression 205-215 psi, no oil burning, valves well adjusted within specification. Would you suggest valve grinding, oil seals replacements and reconditioning? It is too much job and I don't expect much improvement. I calculated CR to 10.4. As far as I can see head wrap-edge seems to be marginal in one end on 0.05mm, however as I had small water-drops leakage all around from the gasket during cold starting maybe a reconditioning would be recommended but don't like to increase compression. What do you suggest?
  • Also, I am thinking not to touch pistons / rings as I have no oil consumption and good compression, am I right?
Your comments will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance :):):)
 

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the pistons look like very high compresion ratio, the crown of it is quiet tall, no wonder you have those high compression numbers, wich are good!! always replace the bearing shells once opened up, even if in good nick, that will give pace in mind afterwards, reshave the head surface a good clean up, replace oil rings while you are in there and should be good to go.
 

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Can you post photos of the rear cam bearing in question and cap. There are specs for the clearance that you can check. If you have the valves out you can check the cams for ease of rotation. You probably should do this. Also check oil ways to the cam.

If you did not temporarily hold down liners while removing pistons and rotating engine head off then you may want pull liners and replace o-rings should they have been disturbed.

Ken
 
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