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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just replaced the internal pump and the in-line fuse to the pump. I gave it a regular tune-up including new battery. When I turn the key from OFF to ON, usually nothing turns on. If I constantly turn the key back and forth from OFF to ON, sometimes I'll get lucky and the electrical system will kick on. If I turn the key to START, I guess the Starter, begins to turn the engine, and everything sounds like it is trying to start, except there is no gas getting into the engine because the pumps aren't getting any power because the electrical system isn't on (which also makes me assume the fuel injectors aren't putting any fuel into the valves). Even the few times the electrical system is on and I try to crank the engine, it still won't start. I think the injectors might be bad or the ECU isn't kicking on (but I measured 10.6-11 volts during cranking (which should be enough, right?)). I just can't figure it out. Any help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I briefly checked all the connections in the fuse box and around it down there under the steering wheel and didn't feel anything loose or see any corrosion (I pulled all the connectors apart and looked inside, not too extensively so there could be some corrosion I missed) so could there be a chance the connection problem is in the slot where the key actually goes in so that when I turn it, the key doesn't trigger the connection? I'll double check the connections and make sure the peices are making good contact tomorrow unless you think its not worth it. Do you think that connection problem could also be causing the failure for the engine to turn over?

I do belive that mine is a motronic injection model if that is indicated on the box under the carpet behind the passenger seat, and assuming I have the terminology correct.
 

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...could there be a chance the connection problem is in the slot where the key actually goes in so that when I turn it, the key doesn't trigger the connection?
Anything is possible but I'd assume that scenario is unlikely. The key part rotates & turns the innards to make/break electrical connections. Much more likely are burnt electrical contacts. Every time a connection is made/broken there can be a spark which eventually burns the contacts.

I do belive that mine is a motronic injection model if that is indicated on the box under the carpet behind the passenger seat, and assuming I have the terminology correct.
What model year is your Spider? '82-'89 are Bosch L-jetronic. The cars have two computers - one for ignition located under the side panel behind the right side door & one under the shelf behind the seats for fuel injection. The FI computer does have a label that reads "Motronic" but the whole system is known as L-jetronic. The ignition computer's label will read L-jetronic.

'90-'94 models have one computer that combines the ignition & fuel injection control into one box. That system is known as Motronic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay thanks for the clarification on the fuel injection system. Its an '85 model and has two separate boxes. I am going to try to pull out the individual connections from the whole sockets to try to make sure that each one is connecting adequately. I'll let you know the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I pulled out the male side of the connections and put them directly into the female side, and got the same result as before. No power. Using a multimeter i checked the voltage running through the connection when the key is in OFF, ON, and during cranking. I got a good reading during cranking (12+ volts), but barely any reading in the OFF and ON positions (less than 0.2). For some reason, the key seems to not be triggering the connection it should when the key is in the ON position. Which leads me to the conclusion that the ignition switch is bad or has a part loose. Any help on how to pull it out and fix or replace it?
 

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There is info on R/R'ing the ignition switch in the FAQ thread.

You can temporarily bypass the ignition switch. Disconnect the two small harness plugs (seen in the sketch in reply #2) and determine the harness connections #1, #2, & #3. On the harness side jump #1 & #3 together and ignition should be 'on' (gauges should come to life, etc). Then connect #1 to #2 and the starter motor should crank. (be ready for the engine to move & to remove that jumper wire to stop the starter from cranking)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I tried the bypass and did some work with the ignition coil, and found there is no voltage getting to the coil during cranking, and even if I try hooking the coil straight up to a battery, there still is no spark (I even replaced the coil to ensure it was good) I think the coil wire and or sparkplug wires are bad. But I will almost defiantly need to replace the ignition switch I think.
 
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