Try swapping out wiring connector in center console between switch B53 and B21 or a rear window switch and see if problem moves as diode in switch maybe bad.I have been going through the left window wiring as there seems to be a strange intermittent problem. Most of the time it does not work. I just replaced the regulator as it was bad (motor still good).
Now today I completed the whole Test procedure for the left front window.
I have checked Fuse F19, Switch B53 (good),
When B53 is activated I do not have 12v (11.9v to be exact) @ B4 of N38 (control Unit)
I do have 12v @ B1,A1,A4 of N38
I think my problem is G100. Which I have not got to yet. Along with G168
From memory is this located under the fuse box on the connector rail?
I am not sure what is going on and any help would be great since electrical is not my strong point.
I have changed out the control unit for a known good one with no change, just hear it clicking when B53 is activated.
It did go up and down a few times but since I put all the computers back up under the dash it no longer works. I tested the motor again and it works just fine. (11.9v as [email protected] harness yellow,yellow/black in door when B53 is activated)
I assume possible a ground or broken wire? I have run out of ideas so far and need some more brains here.
thanks in advance.
Jason
Electrical issues (Left front Window)
I have been going through the left window wiring as there seems to be a strange intermittent problem. Most of the time it does not work. I just replaced the regulator as it was bad (motor still good).
Now today I completed the whole Test procedure for the left front window.
I have checked Fuse F19, Switch B53 (good),
When B53 is activated I do not have 12v (11.9v to be exact) @ B4 of N38 (control Unit)
I do have 12v @ B1,A1,A4 of N38
I think my problem is G100. Which I have not got to yet. Along with G168
Located behind radio
I am not sure what is going on and any help would be great since electrical is not my strong point.
I have changed out the control unit for a known good one with no change, just hear it clicking when B53 is activated.
It did go up and down a few times but since I put all the computers back up under the dash it no longer works. I tested the motor again and it works just fine. (11.9v as [email protected] harness yellow,yellow/black in door when B53 is activated)
I assume possible a ground or broken wire? I have run out of ideas so far and need some more brains here.
thanks in advance.
Jason
Now today I completed the whole Test procedure for the left front window.
I have checked Fuse F19, Switch B53 (good),
When B53 is activated I do not have 12v (11.9v to be exact) @ B4 of N38 (control Unit)
I do have 12v @ B1,A1,A4 of N38
I think my problem is G100. Which I have not got to yet. Along with G168
Located behind radio
I am not sure what is going on and any help would be great since electrical is not my strong point.
I have changed out the control unit for a known good one with no change, just hear it clicking when B53 is activated.
It did go up and down a few times but since I put all the computers back up under the dash it no longer works. I tested the motor again and it works just fine. (11.9v as [email protected] harness yellow,yellow/black in door when B53 is activated)
I assume possible a ground or broken wire? I have run out of ideas so far and need some more brains here.
thanks in advance.
Jason
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Try swapping out wiring connector in center console between switch B53 and B21 or a rear window switch and see if problem moves as diode in switch maybe bad.
Been down that path. Any other ideas.Try swapping out wiring connector in center console between switch B53 and B21 or a rear window switch and see if problem moves as diode in switch maybe bad.
Thanks Steve
Jason
try a diff motor
Even though you can test the motor as OK (I assume you connected it to a car battery and it spun fine) I would try swapping out the motor. Jason thats basically what I just sent through on my LS.
If the motor gets stuck (worn brushes) in certain positions, its near impossible to figure it out .
So swap in another motor (you can just disconnect the old one, switch connectors and have it on the floor of the car-- no need to mechanically install it until you are sure----
bob
Even though you can test the motor as OK (I assume you connected it to a car battery and it spun fine) I would try swapping out the motor. Jason thats basically what I just sent through on my LS.
If the motor gets stuck (worn brushes) in certain positions, its near impossible to figure it out .
So swap in another motor (you can just disconnect the old one, switch connectors and have it on the floor of the car-- no need to mechanically install it until you are sure----
bob
entertain me !
The control unit has a current limiter that shuts off the juice if it exceeds a preset threshold in the circuit (I don't have a schematic of that contoller box unfortuately).
Try another motor -- just plug it in without mechanically hooking it up=== and see if it runs!
Also check the relay in the fusebox---
bob
The control unit has a current limiter that shuts off the juice if it exceeds a preset threshold in the circuit (I don't have a schematic of that contoller box unfortuately).
Try another motor -- just plug it in without mechanically hooking it up=== and see if it runs!
Also check the relay in the fusebox---
bob
Yeah I think it is the motor. I have juice all the way to the motor but it will not go up or down. With a direct current to the motor it work fine.The control unit has a current limiter that shuts off the juice if it exceeds a preset threshold in the circuit (I don't have a schematic of that contoller box unfortuately).
Try another motor -- just plug it in without mechanically hooking it up=== and see if it runs!
Also check the relay in the fusebox---
bob
I get 12v at the motor harness from yellow/black and yellow wires. I will have to get a new motor in.
At least his window is up. lol!
BTW, Also a Little dielectric grease got power to all wires again.
Thanks
Jason
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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