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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
81 spider . The window motor on the driver side just stopped working . Switch is good, 12 volts coming to switch. Not sure I have current at the window or if the motor is bad. They both were always slow. Any way to check the motor to see if it is good.????
I have the door panels off.
Any advice suggestions appreciated.
 

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A common fault is a broken wire inside the rubber bellows between the door & the A post. The frequent flexing will eventually fracture a wire - often inside the insulation so not immediately obvious.

With the door panel off you have access to the connector at the motor. !2V + & - makes it move one way, swap to 12V - & + to move the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you . You say If I crank the window down half way and apply 12 volts on the motor Connector which I have cleaned , the motor should activate and window should move . Correct?.
  • It worked fine yesterday. I am going to check the wire in the sleeve between door and body as you suggested. This seem like a probability as I have 22 volts at the switch a good switch but no current at the motor Connector inside the door. Thank you
  • A common fault is a broken wire inside the rubber bellows between the door & the A post. The frequent flexing will eventually fracture a wire - often inside the insulation so not immediately obvious.

    With the door panel off you have access to the connector at the motor. !2V + & - makes it move one way, swap to 12V - & + to move the other way.


Thank you . You say If I crank the window down half way and apply 12 volts on the motor Connector which I have cleaned , the motor should activate and window should move . Correct?.
  • It worked fine yesterday. I am going to check the wire in the sleeve between door and body as you suggested. This seem like a probability as I have 12 volts at the switch a good switch but no current at the motor Connector inside the door. Thank you
There are no fuses for the windows ? Correct? Do you know if there is a relay ?
 

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..... as I have 22 volts at the switch a good switch but no current at the motor Connector inside the door.
22 volts? they should move like greased lightning!
:ROFLMAO:
only kidding;)

they will have a relay and there will be a fuse.
is your 81 carburettors or injected?

this is from an 84 owner's manual, likely similar to what you have
it shows fuse/s 1 & 8 for windows, and a relay in the 4th slot from the left ("B" in this diagram)
Font Parallel Paper Pattern Paper product
 

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double check your connections. The 84 I bought the drivers didn't work. turned out the PO had been inside the console and the plug was simply not fully seated. Verify connection and grounds before assuming the part itself is at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
22 volts!. Sorry. fat fingers , small phone key board. makes for a poor text and poor alfa spider mechanic.

My 81 is injection ,spica. . Can't find a fuse for windows but hopefully one of the 3 relays mounted on the fender is for windows.
But hopefully the wire is broken at the junction between body and door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A common fault is a broken wire inside the rubber bellows between the door & the A post. The frequent flexing will eventually fracture a wire - often inside the insulation so not immediately obvious.

With the door panel off you have access to the connector at the motor. !2V + & - makes it move one way, swap to 12V - & + to move the other way.
With the door panel off , disconnect the wires to the electric window and mirror , sliding off the rubber bellows to discover the yellow black wire had broken completely, the yellow, black bas broken insulation and connected by a thread. Only the blue remained in tact. It was tedious trying to solder those line back together but managed to get things working . In fact the window and mirror work much better and faster than they have in years.
thanks for the "perfect call". Really perfect. Would have never thought that would be the problem to sluggish electricwindows. But it makes perfect sense. I learned something about electrical connections.

in fact last week we put a new electronic distributor in I bought from center line. After installation the car would not start due to very low spark.
called center line in fear the distributor was defective. They guessed the problem could be in the car's grounding wires. We tried everything. Desparate, we took apart the new distributor to find the ground wire was loose never tightened properly at the factory.
tightened the ground wire reinstalled the distributor and the car started right up. I hate electronics. But......
 
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