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My '79 Spider has a mal-function electric Fuel Pump---gets stuck---and won't pump---Couple of taps with a hammer..and it starts...

While I am not a mechanic, I can do some things..and this is very accessible...Any ideas where are could purchase a replacement?

p.
 

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1966-2013
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Sticking that can be delt with by a few sharp raps is usually more relevant to gummed up rather than worn out.

In any event it won't hurt you to try an old trick for freeing them up:

With around 1/4-1/2 a tank of fuel put 1 quart Marvel Mystery oil right into the tank, then do to the rapping bit for a short period of time while cranking and/or running the engine.

This will pull the oil into the pump and given the properties of said oil, will clean and lube the pump a bit better than fuel alone will do.

If it works, you'll have saved the cost of the new pump, if it doesn't, it only cost a few bucks to try.


Most all the usual suspects in the suppliers list up in the 'general' section of the forum should have suitable replacement pumps available. (get a filter too while at it)
 

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You don't need to crank (don't ever for more than ~30 sec.) or run the car. Turn the key on, and the fuel pump runs - it's a Spica car.
 

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The fuel in a Spica system constantly recirculates. The injection pump just takes what it needs and the rest of the gasoline is returned to the tank.

That said, the pump is shot, ok. You can try the MMO (which you should be using all the time for injection pump lubrication). But my advice would be to keep your cell phone charged and $100 cash in your wallet because you're going to need it when you call for a tow.
 

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It still has to crank and run for a bit to get the oil effectively circulated into the pump regardless of it being a spica car or not. :shrug:

But yes, anything over 20-30 seconds at a pop would be a bad thing.
I must be missing something. If we're talking about the electric fuel pump on a Spica car, it always runs when the key is on. It's too stupid to know if the engine is running, and the fuel will simply loop around and around the fuel circuit until the key is turned off, or the battery dies.

Judging from the few pumps I've taken apart, it's worn brushes that seem to be the life-limiting factor, and I've seen them partially jammed with carbon dust, from those very same worn brushes. As already mentioned, the MMO certainly is worth a shot.
 

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Ok, recirculating system, I get it. LOL

It is kind of a shot in the dark, but I've had good success in the past with pumps that acted the same way, or in tank pumps that didn't spin at all. (pour in the oil, turn on the key and/or crank, then throb on the bottom of the tank with a rubber mallet)
 
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