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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to check the linings on the parking brake as braking effort low. Swung the caliper out of the way, removed the two locating screws but cannot get the disc of the hub. The road wheel is free to turn so there is no binding. Can you free off the brass adjuster which I can see through one of the aperatures in the disc or could I have some other problem.
Regarding cable adjustement the threaded rod on the underside near the brake lever has sheared at sometime and some clown has welded the forward end of the outer cable sheath where it protrudes through the floor mounted bracket that holds the cable. What can I do?
 

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Trying to check the linings on the parking brake as braking effort low. Swung the caliper out of the way, removed the two locating screws but cannot get the disc of the hub. The road wheel is free to turn so there is no binding. Can you free off the brass adjuster which I can see through one of the aperatures in the disc or could I have some other problem.
Regarding cable adjustement the threaded rod on the underside near the brake lever has sheared at sometime and some clown has welded the forward end of the outer cable sheath where it protrudes through the floor mounted bracket that holds the cable. What can I do?
You have to loosen the brass adjuster to move the brake shoes away from the drum. The shoes have cut into the drum and left a small lip in the lining. Loosening the shoes will help give you some clearence.

I can't help with the second issue because I am having a hard time understanding. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Osso, is it clock or anticlock to release, I'm guessing the latter.
Regarding the cable. To the rear of the cable clevis pin (to brake lever linkage) it is held in the sleeve of a body mounted bracket. To the reaf of that there is about a 6 ins section with an enlaged diameter outer. At the front of this and going into the bracket is a threaded section with 2 nuts, it is this threaded part that has sheared (not the cable, this threaded part appears part of the outer sheath)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Slackened off the brass adjuster and still cannot get the disc/drum off. I'm assuming it is stuck on the cylindrical part of the hub flange. The disc is fairly new so would not have expected it to have rusted on. So how can I get it off?
 

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It is quite common for the rotor to rust to the shaft and the back of the rotor. PB blaster should help with a bit heat from a propane torch. Be patient and apply more blaster and heat at intervales. a rubber mallet helps also. There are no bolts or fasteners holding the rotor on the shft except the two locating screws that you have removed. May take a day or so for the penetrating oil to be effective, Patience is a viture here coupled with a bit of force
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Patience is a virtue and now the rotor is off. Heat plus penetrating oil and levering from the back of the hub where the caliper fits did the trick. You could see the rust running out in the oil.
My next problem is removing the parking brake shoes. Each is held with a small central spring which appears to accept a hex key fitted through the hole in the hub flange. But what do I do, how do you remove, I don't want to break anything?
 

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I've just had to remove and replace mine to fit new studs and it is quite a pain.

The hex head clips need to be pushed in hard, and turned 90 degrees (either way) to release them. If you are unlucky the small latch piece they attach to falls off the back plate. Then you need to slacken off the adjuster completely and get the two springs off before it all comes apart.

Good luck!
 

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I lined up the adjusting hole with the hex clips and used a Phillips screwdriver to push in and turn the clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for advice, does anyone know the correct thickness for new parking brake linings as I can get them relined locally
 

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Does it matter that much? They're hardly ever used in such a way that they would wear out. Mine were probably original, with plenty of wear left, but just fell apart from old age.

Or do you do you don a hoodie and do a lot of handbrake turns in the local supermarket carpark? :D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like one of the previous owners did not get the adjustment right and ran with the OS binding. The lining thickness on one is less than 0.5 mm, whats left, so needs to be replaced.
Dismantling did not go well. Pushed hard on the first spring, could see it moved inwards and rotated 90 degrees, no problem. The second one would not push in but I still tried to turn and it sheared off at the spigot end. Can you get that part, not sure what it is called. I've got the piece that sheared off and thought about a tedious weld jod but the part looks to be cast.
 
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