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Discussion Starter #141
Yes, that's the proper technique. Those gears just have a few teeth, so there's only a few (logical) ways to assemble the oil pump & crankshaft gears.

When I wrote "the fun part of this operation is aligning the oil pump-crankshaft gears", I meant "fun" to literally mean "fun", not "difficult".



In thinking about this some more, I realized that the "gluing with grease" technique is what I used to do back when I only had a rear-mount engine stand. Now that I have a side-mount adapter for my stand, I simply tilt the engine nose-down, and gravity holds the slinger in place as I raise the front cover + oil pump up to the block.
oh yeah that would work too. it also looks like you could hold the slinger with a pair of long reach needle nose pliers while positioning the front cover. all my parts are on their way now so i should be able to drop them off at the machine shop this coming week. hopefully it doesn't take them too long. no hurry i guess; we're flying down to Disneyland next weekend anyway. i'll wave when we pass San Juan Capistrano :)
mark
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Well all the head parts are at the machinist's, so that should be done soon. I pulled the rear main cap today to get ready for the cigarette seal and rear main seal replacement. I plasti gauged the bearing while I had it apart and The gauge read between .003" and .004"; so it's shaping up to be a complete engine rebuild I guess. The car will probably be on a rotisserie by summer😥
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Discussion Starter #143
the Head is finally back from the machine shop and the short block has been dropped off for the autopsy :(.
Here's some pictures of the head and a picture of the threaded plates that the flywheel bolts go into (slinger?) that i have a question about: i pulled them out and marked the side facing outward for reinstallation reference but noticed that each was in differently. one side has a shoulder and the other side has a chamfered outer edge. is this how they are supposed to be installed or had this been done incorrectly in the past? either way, does anyone know which way they are supposed to be oriented?
thanks
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chamfer OUT (towards flywheel bolt) as I recall to help get the bolt centered and started. Its kind of a blind thing to get started

Think about pulling the steering box while you have easy access-- and check for cracks/maybe rebuild it----
 

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the threaded plates that the flywheel bolts go into (slinger?)
No, the slinger is just a flat sheetmetal washer-shaped part. It slings oil by centrifugal force, just like the part at the front end of the engine that you bent and straightened. The rear slinger is much larger than the front, as it has to fit over the flywheel flange on the crankshaft.

Anyhow, if your rear slinger has gone missing, it isn't a catastrophe; the factory didn't install them on 2L engines and modern rear seals work OK without the slinger.

now i can start on this engine compartment
What are you going to do with the engine compartment? You could re-paint the side of the battery compartment. goat's idea of inspecting/rebuilding the steering box is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
chamfer OUT (towards flywheel bolt) as I recall to help get the bolt centered and started. Its kind of a blind thing to get started

Think about pulling the steering box while you have easy access-- and check for cracks/maybe rebuild it----

thanks Goats. so the half pictured, without the blue arrow pointing to it, faces the flywheel. somebody has been in this engine before. i didn't even look to see if there was a flat sheetmetal slinger in there before taking it down to the machine shop. glad to hear it's not a problem :)
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Discussion Starter #148
well the engine finally made it home from the machine shop. that only took two and a half months. she's all nice and purty now! i sent Gordon Raymond some photos of the inside of my oil pump and he confirmed it's toast, so i'm sending it to him this week. i guess i can work on the cigarette seals and rear main seal in the interim.
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #149 (Edited)
Rear main is all buttoned up. On to the transmission! I’ve already replaced the input shaft seal, re sealed the bell housing and am up to the mount. The replacement didn’t come with these two white solid cylinders, so i’m Guessing I have to use the old ones. They must have worked their way partially out as Both of these are sticking out about a half inch. Do they need to be installed fully?
Thanks!
Mark
 

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those white inserts are not factory.

People sometimes use things like that to try stiffen up a bad trans mount in situ.
Or sometimes to stiffen a new mount for track purposes (some suppliers offer aluminium inserts)

I'd wouldn't use them on a road car.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
those white inserts are not factory.

People sometimes use things like that to try stiffen up a bad trans mount in situ.
Or sometimes to stiffen a new mount for track purposes (some suppliers offer aluminium inserts)

I'd wouldn't use them on a road car.
Interesting, thanks. I would have assumed they're stock the way they fit in those two holes. I'll toss 'em.
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Discussion Starter #155
Waiting on a couple of seals, a new battery support tray, and my oil pump, so I knocked out a couple of tasks not related to the engine rebuild: first I installed the new transmission mount; the old one had served it’s time! Next I started in on the nanky old battery tray😝. I drilled it out and started cleaning the area up. Not too bad... nothing more than surface rust on the frame that the tray was mounted to. It’s going to be tough to blend in the new paint without giving in to an engine compartment restoration. Gotta keep on task though.....NO RESTORATIONS!!! Drive the car and be happy Mark.
 

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