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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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I remove the 2 that are on the frame.
Completely remove the one on top as it's a bolt while the one the bottom is a nut on a stud so it only need be loosened some half way.
 

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I agree with what Papajam wrote. But I also remove the left side mount from the block (the exhaust side) just to allow the engine some side-to-side movement. Also that mount can snag/scratch things as the engine comes out.

Don't forget to disconnect the tach cable, ground strap, speedometer cable and back-up light wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks All!
I’m sure i’ll Have more questions, but all this info should help me get the engine out.....then I’ll worry about figuring out why the bottom of the engine is covered in oil and anti freeze ��.
Regards
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok almost out! my engine hoist's boom is just about six inches short when reaching over the nose though. has anyone had success pulling the engine and tranny with the hoist positioned from the side of the car? i'm not sure how the geometry would work. also, could i pull two of the valve cover studs and attach my tilt lift adapter to them to assist in tilting the engine? would the valve cover stud holes in the head hold the weight of the engine/tranny combo?
thanks!
Mark
 

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has anyone had success pulling the engine and tranny with the hoist positioned from the side of the car?
Nope, I've never tried that.

The hoist needs to move away from the front of the car as the engine/trans snakes out of the tunnel. I'm not getting how your hoist would: a) move sideways or b) get past the front wheel. But without seeing your set-up, it is difficult to evaluate how it would work.

could i pull two of the valve cover studs and attach my tilt lift adapter to them to assist in tilting the engine? would the valve cover stud holes in the head hold the weight of the engine/tranny combo?
No, I wouldn't trust two 8 mm studs threaded into aluminum cam caps to support the weight of the engine/trans.

Not clear to me why you need a tilting lift adapter. Most people - myself included - just put the lifting hook on the second pair of head studs (that's one pair forward of where your's appears to be). This balance point lifts the engine/trans at the right angle to come out.
 

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I'm really surprised you say the nose of your engine hoist is too short. Does the hoist nose not extend, or is it just that you can't get it close enough to the car coz the feet are hitting something?....in which case what's getting in the way? The Alfa isn't a loooong car, just low, so...
- Is it hitting the wheels? Put it on jackstands and take them off...
- Is it hitting the suspension bits or sump? Raise the car a bit....jackstands again.
I have previously approached a car with a hoist slightly askew, and things went ok, but not fully to the side.
 

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For my S3, my hoist is not deep enough to re-install the engine without hitting the front of the car on the hoist. I put the car on a lift (only raise it a little), remove the left front wheel, and put the hoist on the driver side, moving it sideways I and helpers ease the engine/transmission back into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm really surprised you say the nose of your engine hoist is too short. Does the hoist nose not extend, or is it just that you can't get it close enough to the car coz the feet are hitting something?....in which case what's getting in the way? The Alfa isn't a loooong car, just low, so...
- Is it hitting the wheels? Put it on jackstands and take them off...
- Is it hitting the suspension bits or sump? Raise the car a bit....jackstands again.
I have previously approached a car with a hoist slightly askew, and things went ok, but not fully to the side.
yeah the boom is 50 inches long and the hydraulic cylinder that raises it touches the nose of the car without the hook being able to reach the lifting point yet. i'm going to go look at a lift at the local rental yard today and see if it's any longer. if not i'm going to buy a longer piece of square tubing and fabricate a longer boom for the hoist i'm using now.
i'm not in a rush. it'll come out when it comes out:wink2:. this is my first Alfa so i'm having to learn everything (things i didn't know i needed to learn). it's been interesting!
thanks everyone for your replies.
mark
 

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this is my first Alfa so i'm having to learn everything (things i didn't know i needed to learn). it's been interesting!
Mark:

If you're open to more suggestions, I would recommend removing the exhaust headers and air box (or even the box + the carbs) from the engine before pulling it. And wouldn't re-install them until after it has been put back in.

Others will chime in that they have pulled engines that looked exactly like your picture (reproduced below). And I'm not disagreeing; just saying that it is easier, and will put fewer scratches in your underhood paint, if the engine has less stuff attached.

I would also remove the hood latch on the center/back of the firewall. That's in the "line of fire".

Be sure to use a lot of towels / blankets / cardboard on the firewall, radiator support and fenderwells to prevent scratching. This is most important on re-installation.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
i was going to ask if anyone thought it might be a good idea to pull the header. nobody mentioned it previously so i figured it would be OK to leave it on. carbs too huh? I've been looking at those carbs and wondering how the heck anybody removes and replaces them while they're in the car! i was hoping to do all that work on the engine stand :)
thanks!
mark
 

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i was going to ask if anyone thought it might be a good idea to pull the header. nobody mentioned it previously so i figured it would be OK to leave it on.
My guess is that the headers will hang up on that "fence" that surrounds the battery tray. Later spiders don't have that "fence" (OK, they have a removable, plastic one).

carbs too huh?
I'm not saying the engine won't come out with the carbs and airbox in place; just that it's one more thing to bang up the fusebox and fenderwell and it will get in your way when you want to line up the R motormount.

I've been looking at those carbs and wondering how the heck anybody removes and replaces them while they're in the car! i was hoping to do all that work on the engine stand
Oh it's not that bad. You can reach under the carbs with both arms, R arm in front, L arm behind, and install the washers + nuts. It's worthwhile chasing the threads on the carb mounts to make sure the nuts will spin by hand.

Also: There is some play in how the carb mounts fit the manifold, carbs fit the mounts. Assemble all this while the engine is on the stand - if you just bolt the mounts + carbs without test fitting, you may find that the airbox won't span the two carbs properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My guess is that the headers will hang up on that "fence" that surrounds the battery tray. Later spiders don't have that "fence" (OK, they have a removable, plastic one).

thanks for that tip!



I'm not saying the engine won't come out with the carbs and airbox in place; just that it's one more thing to bang up the fusebox and fenderwell and it will get in your way when you want to line up the R motormount.

thanks for that tip too! i didn't realize it would bang around that much.

Oh it's not that bad. You can reach under the carbs with both arms, R arm in front, L arm behind, and install the washers + nuts. It's worthwhile chasing the threads on the carb mounts to make sure the nuts will spin by hand.

Also: There is some play in how the carb mounts fit the manifold, carbs fit the mounts. Assemble all this while the engine is on the stand - if you just bolt the mounts + carbs without test fitting, you may find that the airbox won't span the two carbs properly.
so mount the carbs to the airbox on the bench, mount the carb mounts to the manifold on the engine stand then mount the carbs/airbox to the carb mounts once the engine is in? or mount everything on the engine while on the stand then remove what item(s) for reinstallation after the engine is in?
thanks Jay
 

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so mount the carbs to the airbox on the bench, mount the carb mounts to the manifold on the engine stand then mount the carbs/airbox to the carb mounts once the engine is in? or mount everything on the engine while on the stand then remove what item(s) for reinstallation after the engine is in?
I guess either way would work, though I tend to do the latter. The two carbs plus the airbox is sort of an unwieldy assembly to try to put into place.

Actually, now that I think about it, it can be as simple as leaving the carb-to-carb mount nuts loose until the airbox goes on.

My point is simply that there is some play in the carb mounting and carb mounting holes, so you can end up with some variation in the carb-carb spacing. Unless you verify that the eight airbox mounting studs/holes line up before cinching down the carbs, they probably won't line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok got it! I pulled 'em along with the header. I loosened the left motor mount from the block as well so that I can take it off once the hoist is hooked up and the weight is off. I'll take the oil filter assembly off too. I should be able to pull it tonight after I finish fabricating a longer boom for the cherry picker I'm using.
How's the weather in San Juan Capistrano right now? Sunny and 72 I would guess. I love that place! We're moving back to So Cal when I'm done at Boeing in a few years.
Thanks for the help!
Mark
 
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