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Discussion Starter #1
LR wheel dragging. Wheel/tire now off; cannot budge the square adjusting nut to release pressure of the shoes on the drum-any ideas?
 

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I would try to pry off the drum and if that does not work remove the rear axle and press off the drum. I removed a stuck drum by moving the car and then prying off the drum.
 

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Penetrating oil down the holes where the studs come out and the retaining screws are. Use liberally so that the oil flows down the backside of the drum. Let is sit overnight. I would get a propane torch and warm the surface where the drum is attached to the axle. Then with a large hammer give the center a couple of good whacks and it should pop loose. Early Mitsubishi cars had this issue with their wheels, which is how I am familiar with this. After you get the drums off, put a thin smear of anti-seize on the axle, so it doesn't happen again. You will see the contact points where it sticks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Both are stuck; the square adjuster bolt and the drum, although I can wiggle (scientific term) the drum on the axle about 1/16 of an inch laterally. The wheel bolts are soaking now with penetrating fluid on them.
 

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Stuck adjuster = a large adjustable wrench / shifting spanner and the judicious application of brute force... The shoes / linings are stuck against the drum, so you need to compress them slightly to 'roll' the square adjuster cam over the two little slides. These square adjusters are not handed, they are both conventional thread, so loosen like normal. Once you get it over the first square it gets easier, back it right off so that you can get maximum movement on the shoes to get the drum off. A bit of penetrating oil / spray at the drum-to-flange face will help to loosen things up. Christopher is right, judicious application of a propane torch on the face of the drum-to-hub flange will help loosen things.

Then it's a wiggle & pry session & yes gently prying against the backing plate is about all you can do, the backing plates are tough, I generally use 2 large screwdrivers, then when things start to move & make space I go to a pair of tyre levers as they have a larger surface area against the backing plates - gently !!

Once all cleaned up, a tiny wipe of copper slip or Never Sieze will prevent it reoccurring. I also apply it sparingly to the adjuster and its 2 little slides

Ciao
Greig
 

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Time for uncle to weigh in....1) .the adjuster won't budge----I've had a couple on the bench that were FROZEN so badly no amount of effort would free them up and i had to actually commit a sin and pitch them.. 2) Did the brake just drag or was the wheel FROZEN? 3) Assuming it dragged the lug spider could be rusted on the hub as a contributor so remove the two screws and oil and heat 4) make up 4 hard wood wedges and drive them between the backing plate and the drum ...when in place pull out a big cigar and light it with your propane torch and apply judicious heat to the drum in a circular motion.. KEEP IT HOT..Propane heat will not hurt anything..5) tap on the face of the drum with an IRON hammer to set a vibration in the drum while applying heat.. check the tightness of the wedges and drive them in further as the drum moves .. It will. Celebrate with a shot of cognac
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is my story:

I rebuilt the brake master cylinder and bled the brakes about a week ago. On a test drive, I got on the brakes hard and locked up one brake, presumably the left rear, as past testing with the left rear wheel off the ground indicated this wheel was dragging. The brake pedal is firm.

With the car elevated two days ago, the left wheel is still dragging, although I can turn the wheel if the tire is on; I cannot turn the brakedrum by hand. Lots of sharp edges!

If the brake wheel cylinder is stuck, pressing the brake shoes onto the drum, would opening the bleed screw on this drum help? Would tapping on the cylinder assembly with a rubber mallet help?

The car has only 28,xxx miles on it; perhaps there is a groove on the drum, preventing the brake shoes from coming laterally off of the drum.

As mentioned before, I can wiggle the drum slightly perpendicular to the axle, so I presume the drum is not frozen onto the axle. I have applied penetrating oil to the 4 studs on the drum, the drum/axle contact junction and the 2 holes where the screws holding the drum on are located.

All further advice welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And indeed it did; perhaps the application of a penetrating oil made up of equal parts of acetone and automatic transmission fluid injected into around the studs, the two screw holes and the junction of the hub with the axle, using a VERY fine hypodermic needle/syringe (like diabetics use for injecting insulin) was the solution. It came off with gentle prying of a screwdriver between the backing plate and the drum. I used the solution noted, as testing on the Internet and what Paul Russel used to bring back to life some of the engines he worked on indicates that is the best "penetrating oil".

Thanks to all who provided their expertise!!!!!

Ciao.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No panic, no cigar (I smoked for 20 years and know it now!!!), no propane, but 2 martinis with Bombay Sapphire Gin helped me.
 
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