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I need to put in new clutch parts. I plan on doing this myself. I will have car on ramps (see pic).

A couple questions

1. Can a pretty strong individual (me) drop the unit while lying on a creeper. Naturally the tranny will be drained. I have no idea how heavy it is.

2. Do I have to remove any interior dash parts or does the shift lever simply drop through the hole (with knob removed) as you drop unit from below?

3. Are there any other interesting tidbits that I should be aware of? I do have the absolutely pitiful shop manual but I hate it being my only reference.

I really don't like surprises and would appreciated any and all comments.


thx
Bud
 

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I've never tried to separate engine and transmission in-situ like that. I know it can be done but good luck getting to the upper bolts.

The only thing I can help you with is the shift lever. You need to pull the console and remove the two boots then one bolt and the whole lever cones off.
 

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This is the thread I used to pull my tranny.

I have done it this way 3 times on my '91 and was used twice on another members tranny.

I would STRONGLY suggest you pick up that tranny jack at Harbor Freight. Its not that expensive and in the end, you will realize what a huge value it brings.

Yes the top 2 nuts are difficult, but I approached them each time knowing that they are a PIA and took my time.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Last weekend, with help from a friend, I pulled the transmission from a '90 Spider at Pick-n-Pull. The transmission was still connected to the engine, but someone had already removed the head from the engine.

JimG provided me with instructions, which were invaluable. Without them I would not have attempted removal.

A few high level observations:

  1. You must remove the gear shift lever before the transmission can be removed and dropped. AMHIK!
  2. Bolt and nut sizes are seemingly random. Some bolts had different size nuts.
  3. 20" of ground clearance is more than enough room to work under the car and drop the transmission.
  4. The transmission is not that heavy, but once it comes free you want something to hold it up until you can safely lower it to ground. (At home you could use a floor jack or a transmission jack. No jacks are allowed at Pick-n-Pull, so we used the remnants of two bucket seats and floor mats.)
I just now read http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/994509-post32.html and they are a superset of JimG's instructions. This description is very thorough and even includes information about a starter bolt with a different size nut. As you will be reinstalling the transmission I recommend following these instructions.
 

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One other question, which occurred to me the day after I pulled the transmission and returned for the clutch and flywheel. Which is easier (time and/or effort):
  1. Pulling the transmission with the engine in the car?
  2. Pulling the engine and transmission together and then removing the transmission from the engine?
I assume (1), but would like to know what other BBers' say. The answer might also vary on whether the transmission will be reinstalled. (That's the usual situation, unlike my one-way, removal only at Pick-n-Pull.)
 

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The shifter lever can be undone from underneath. Its not the easiest thing to do but it will save you time of removing console specially on the 87 and later spiders. You need to have the drive shaft out and the exhaust undone either at the joint between the front and center muffler or between the center and rear muffler. If your exhaust has been welded together you will need to undo the manifold at the head. Once this is done undo speedo cable, exhaust bracket to pipe and then the trans bracket. Trans will drop down when this bracket is done. Pull down on back of trans and wedge a block between exhaust and body or a jack under oil pan pushing up. Take trans bracket off trans undo boot clamp. Push boot out of way. If you think you need an inner shift boot remove shift knob now. Reach up with 2 short 11mm wrenches and undo shifter bolt. I use one of these ratchets in 1/4" drive with 11mm socket.TrueCraft 1/2" Stubby Flex Head Ratchet 40136 - Amazon.com
Sometimes this is easy sometimes it can be a pain in the a**. Once the shifter bolt is out go in car and move lever side to side while pulling up. It should come off. You can also hit the lever from underneath with a long screwdriver or prybar and hammer to knock it off. With a lift and air tools I could have any 105 style trans on the ground in 30 minutes. This included putting the car on the lift.
 

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I just read one of the threads about removing the trans. You do not need to undo anything on the engine. All bolts can be gotten to from underneath. You can use a 30" to 36" ratchet extension and a 13mm and 16mm universal socket. when you undo the starter you can lift it up and forward to move it out of the way. If its the big one with the support bracket you can leave it there. It will be harder to get the nut and bolt loose for the bellhousing but it can be done. You should disconnect the battery before starting on trans removal.
 

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Did mine 2X with just a jack, no trany jack, although, it is s nice tool. What a pain. Worst is the distasteful console inside. Good luck, man. No way all the bolts can be reached from underneath- top 2 from above in engine bay. If headers, may have to loosen up rear one.
 

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I have done it twice on ramps in the drive way. I don't know if I could do it again with damage to shoulder now but all the PITA stuff mentioned previously applies. Front of engine up, transmission tail down. The shifter nub was a pain I think and the steering cross link. When ready to come out I would get well situated under it and get it out and down onto my chest then wiggle out from under it trying not to drop it. Installation is the reverse. Get under the car with trans by my side. Get trans up unto my chest and using hands, arms, knees, legs in any combination that worked after a couple tries it would go in.

My ramps were the traditional smaller ones than yours so much less distance to lift and maneuver.

What are those ramps?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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The ramps are Kwik Lift.

KWIKLIFT - The perfect carlift for your home garage or commercial shop

Saved a ton of money for me. Highly recommended.

Also included pic of adjacent hydraulic lift. I can hang the wheels on that one.

All the replies are greatly appreciated.

I know about hard to reach fasteners and working on my back in what ever position necessary.

I can change all the spark plugs on my 82 911SC in less than 30 minutes. Anyone knowing about 911's could appreciate this feat.

If it was easy, would it really be worth having? (LOL)

Thanks again guys.
 

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Yes, a strong fellow can lower trans onto chest. Disconnect battery. Rubber shift boot(s) will be torn, disassemble console to remove shifter. Fan may hit shroud and/or radiator when tilting engine. Now is a good time to remove and flush radiator, replace antifreeze. Mind flywheel sensor locations, lube sensor OD when reinstalling. Mind flywheel orientation to crankshaft! I mark with a center punch. Have flywheel resurfaced, .9" step, I believe. Replace rear main seal. Rebuild clutch slave cylinder, lube outside with Never Sieze when attaching to bell housing. Rebuild drive shafts. Trans mount ok? 2nd gear syncro? Oil leaks? Fix it all now and most likely you will never have to revisit any of this for as long as your relationship lasts with your beautiful red lady. Good luck!
 
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