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dropped a valve

3K views 44 replies 13 participants last post by  SpiralArchitect 
#1 ·
So diagnosis is my 91 164 that I bought not too long ago dropped a valve. No idea how bad yet, I instructed the mechanics to pull the heads. I'm pretty much convinced there is no 'good' outcome. thoughts?
 
#3 ·
I'm looking at it from a cost perspective. Bought it for 3000, put 1800 in to repair the A/C timing belt and water pump hoses and head gaskets, etc. at what point do I say 'that's all'? Seriously ready to bin it and put it to charity.
 
#4 ·
I have a pair of 164 heads complete with valves, cams, pulleys etc. I bought them when I intended to port them for a high performance motor but I have decided to go a different route. PM me if you want them.
 
#5 ·
Just left my mechanic's; scope shows a valve came out completely and embedded itself in the piston, cylinder closest to you on the left. No prior warning just crunch! Stated it'd be 5-6 grand to fix it all. Easier to source a used engine. Bugger
 
#6 ·
If you did, in fact, drop a valve, your best bet cost-wise is to find a replacement engine. It certainly depends on the level of damage, but likely a new head, valves, maybe a piston or two, etc. The slippery slope leads to a full rebuild very quickly. If your mechanic can verify damage with a scope through a plug hole, you might want to skip on the tear-down expense. Below are pictures of the engine from a 164S I bought with a dropped valve. It took me a year to find a good replacement local S engine.

An L engine shouldn't be hard to find for $500 or so. Add in some $ for new timing belt and other ancillary stuff. Not sure where you are located, but there's a 164 on the Seattle Craigslist that runs for $500 or $600, with a little hit to the front left fender.
 

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#7 ·
The scope showed the cylinder is pretty much buggered with a dropped valve stuck in its side. However, this went from a "how do I salvage out the car" to a hopeful thread. Already have the agreement of the shop to salvage all the bits worth saving off the existing block (including my new A/C system.) Is it really possible to source a good used engine for around 500? Any recommendations who to stay away from, who is a good source, etc? I -really- don't want to walk away from this one, too nice of a car in my mind (really.)

I'm in South Eastern Idaho by the way. Wanted to say thank you by the way, this forum's been a trove of good information and patience for an Alfa Newbie like myself.
 
#9 ·
Certainly possible to find a good engine in the $500 range. Sometimes you have to be patient, though. No affiliation, but here's a current CL post. Previously listed for $600, with a "need it gone" clarification:

Alfa Romeo

The entire AC system can remain in the car for an engine swap. No need to even discharge the system.
 
#10 ·
Well, I wrote the ad's owner. The hard part would be figuring out how to get it here. Still, I assume once I was done picking the carcass over I could dispose of the remains in a reasonable manner? All I'm really after is an engine.
 
#11 ·
I shipped complete long block engine minus accessories to FL from VA using trucking company to a business address. Buyer paid the freight bill. I strapped and bolted it to a pallet. Pallet and engine weighed 500#.

Don't know the cost as the buyer (foreighn car shop owner) used his account to pay for shipping.
 
#12 ·
Well, the Seattle car is mine for 500 if I want it. What questions would you recommend I ask to gain more insight into the engine condition. Also, how to get it here :/)
 
#13 ·
Grab a u-haul and go get it!

I've purchased a number of cars long distance or sight unseen, and I always call and talk to the person - you get a much better feeling about the situation when you can talk to someone rather than exchanging emails.

Some questions I'd ask:

How many miles?
Used as daily driver?
Any hesitation, rough running, or running perfectly?
When was last timing belt change?
Maintenance records?
How long have they owned the car?
Any observed oil consumption, leaks?
Oil pressure per gauge on dash?
Any overheating, coolant in oil, mayo on oil cap, oil in coolant reservoir?

On the plus side - you can get a few bucks for scrap once you're done with the car. You can also salvage or sell other items from it to help offset the cost.
 
#14 ·
I was just looking at the Uhaul rates, about 550 to rent the truck and trailer, 11 hour drive from there. NPR's auto donation program caught my eye as they'll take 'clunkers' and that would offset the travel.
 
#15 ·
I would also check the cost of getting it transported. It might be comparable with the U-haul solution. A few years ago a friends Mercedes broke down in Indianapolis and he had it transported to my house in Columbia SC for about $500. The rates varied quite a bit. The cheap places have a reputation for banging up the cars but that is not a concern for you. I repaired it for about $250 (K-Jetronic problem) and my friend saved over $2500 from what the Mercedes dealer quoted him to fix it.
 
#16 ·
the different times I've had cars shipped here were usually a pain, any suggestions for a good company to try? Heard back from the Seattle owner, car has 170k miles on it, no records/history and he had it for 8-9 months. I'm hesitant on that one.
 
#17 ·
I'd probably steer clear of that one too if he's only had it a short while and is dumping it. Plus no records? Ehhh.... No so much.
 
#21 ·
Hi,

Is there any info on why this dropped a valve in the first place? I have a 24v 3.0 164 and planning to take the heads off to replace all the gaskets as weeping due to age. Had intended to take the valves out for cleaning/porting but the thought they might later drop out is quite worrying.

Richard
 
#23 ·
Hi Richard,

The mechanic literally told me "there's no way to predict this, stuff happens." I then asked him "Do you think the P/O was aware of this coming and thus decided to sell the car?" to which he replied "no, you cannot predict this."
 
#25 ·
For my 12V, I cannot speak about the prior two owners (Father/son) but for my own part, I never put the revs over 5000 RPM. Also only drove it about a dozen times, but they must have followed the philosophy of "rev limiter means change up!" perhaps? :)
 
#26 · (Edited)
How many miles were on the engine when it went? What work did you have done to the heads when the gaskets were replaced? The heads were not pulled down for a valve job, valves not inspected? If very high mileage on the engine, some just replace the valves to start off fresh.

Seems like I read somewhere a few years ago is that it is the intake which might tend to go, if one were to fail.
The 24V, ummm, maybe not, that's a lot of valves. Also smaller valve, less mass, so the loads are lower hopefully.

"Stated it'd be 5-6 grand to fix it all"

Whew, he charges a lot, doesn't he?
 
#27 ·
he does apparently. It had 155k miles on it. Unfortunately records of the first owner were gone, the second owner only cared about the paintwork. Nothing was done with the heads when the gaskets were replaced, I believe I only have the valve cover gaskets replaced. He's stating it would take 10-15 labor hours to do the swap. So about 800 dollars or so.
 
#28 ·
That's not so bad.

My dealer, Lino, has well over 200k miles on his 164 12V and I have 178k miles on my 91S, so they do go on and on if not perhaps abused or unserviced (including valve adjustment). My S even has it's original clutch, works ok. Trying to get to 200k on that one.

Some drivers are just murder on cars, and I've always been amazed just how trashed some cars get when driven by a klutz/incompetent or abusive driver.
 
#29 ·
I'm one of those drivers who tends to rev the engine pretty high. With my 140,000 mile on the clock 164 24v, that means regularly above 6,000rpm; though not when cold. I've always driven it that way since buying it 10 years ago and, with very few exceptions, it has been incredibly reliable. Even when driving across Germany at 150mph, between clumps of traffic.

I only queried the valve dropping issue as concerned it could be induced by my first-timer head removal for weeping hed-gasket replacement. How are the valves held in and what sets the correct spacing between them and the cams?

Whatever the engine choice, these are brilliant cars and seriously don't want to trash mine by doing something wrong on the valve front. If anyone has any suggestions for how to help avoid such an issue they would be very appreciated.

Richard :)
 
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