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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just been reading with great interest the thread "91 Spider clutch, speedo + rear end problems".

It seems that someone may have identified a problem that has been bugging me for months.

Here's my symptoms:

Clunking when pulling away in 1st or reverse (or very low revs in 2nd).........but only when the car has been run & is warm. It doesn't do this when cold !!!!!

Will grapping the propshaft a wiggling it help me to ID this ?

Is the bearing in the entry point to the rear differential, has I have some oil leaking from this bearing / seal (seen via a strip of oil above the diff) ?

How much of a job is this to do ?

Any other help would be appreciated.

PS: just had a full 2.5" stainless exhaust system fitted to her, she sounds luuuuurvly.

77 Posts
Hi Jamie,

Sounds like your support bearing.

Possible explaination for cold/hot symptom:
The support bearing is actually a bearing in a rubber collar held in a metal frame that's bolted into the transmission tunnel. It seems to be the rubber part that really fails (it just dries out/becomes not very rubbery!). The bearing itself is a sealed bearing. If your bearing is jiggered, it could be heating up with friction and softening the rubber up even more, causing the symptoms you describe.

Anyway, really easy to diagnose (see other thread). If you hold the transmission tunnel while accelerating, you'll feel it thumping away. Under the car, wiggling propshaft not good enough - Heave!

The bearing is at the back of the front driveshaft. You can't miss it - it is the only thing that connects the driveshaft to the body. While you're under there, check the rubber coupling at the front of the front driveshaft (connects driveshaft to gearbox).

Removing the driveshaft is fairly easy. Note that you must mark the alignment of all parts to each other so you can put it all back together in the same orientation so you keep the balance of the driveshalft. Even the bolts/washers where fitted need to go back where they came from.

Basically, remove the three nuts from the rubber coupling at the front of the front driveshaft which connects it to the gearbox. Remove the four bolts on the universal joint that connects the front drive shaft to the back drive shaft. Remove the two bolts that hold the support bearing to the body of the car. The Driveshaft will now drop and hit you on the head. Swear. It will not, however, under any circumstances, disconnect itself from the rubber coupling to the gearbox. Swear more.

Go get a very long jublee clip (hose clamp) (or join 2 or 3 shorter ones together) that will fit around the circumference of the rubber coupling and use it to compress the coupling. You should then be able to drive out the bolts and finally release the front drive shaft. Make manly victory noises.

To actually replace the support/bearing, you'll need access to professional type tools (a press and heat). I just bunged the garage round the corner 20 notes to do it for me. This annoys me because it's the only part of my 12 month restoration I had to pay somebody to do. I think the new parts cost me about 25 notes.

Then put it back on and stop cringing every time you pull away!

Your differential leak is the pinion seal. In theory easy to change while your driveshaft is off, but actually impossible 'cos you need a special tool to undo the nut on the back of the pinion (as the new pinion seal on my shelf will testify.) I've heard this seal actually destroys itself as a result of the driveshaft flapping around because the support bearing has failed.

If anone knows where I can borrow a tool for the pinion nut, I'd love to hear from them.

Best of luck!

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