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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #1
I decided that a single-ended engine stand would make me too nervous for working on the Montreal engine, so conjured up this frankenstein. I used two of the cheapest Harbor Freight stands (about $45/ea), plus lengths of round and square section mild steel pipe, plus a piece of flat for the caster mounts and engine connection plates. Don't recall where I bought the casters, but that's just commodity stuff. Total cost around $200.

I let my 11 year old learn mig welding on it, although the ugliest welds are mine. We'll ignore that for now. I was using old wire that had corrosion on it, so had feed problems.

When doing one of these it's anyone's guess where the center of balance will be. I think I got it about right, as I can rotate it by hand using my inserted pry bar. It is slightly heavier toward the upper head side, which means when the heads are off it'll be either heavy toward the crank side or just right. Close enough for me.

Rolls around with one hand. Only things left are to cut off the rotating pipes, grind down the ugliest of the welds, and spray a little paint. I'll draft the 11 year old for some of that.
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #2
Engine stand continued
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #3
Engine stand continuation
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Engine stand continuation ........
 

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Whoa...nicely done.
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ready, cut, measure. Simple plan.

Just realized 5 pics are missing. I'll get them in tomorrow.
 

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Very nice, Don! Thanks for sharing the details!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A few more pics

Additional details for stand
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #9
Notes:

The two notches in the end of the pipes are to access the upper nut where the flange bolts to the engine. These flanges are welded to the end of the pipes. The minor challenge is to line up the engine with the flanges bolted in place and tack the pipes to them so it will all fit together later.

As there is some gap between the pipes and the tubular supports at the top of the two engine hoists, I inserted screw drivers to lever the pipes to their most level position prior to tacking them to the flanges. I didn't want the rotating pipes having a slight vee to them, which would make rotating something of a problem.
 

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I used an old engine mount welded to a pipe the correct dia for the stand, built 90% of the engine using the bell housing mounts then swapped over to the engine mount to finish of the flywheel, one point is the centre of gravity is not correct pivoting at this point so just be aware there is quite a turning force once you get so far
 

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I have a custom-built rolling engine stand fabricated by Richard Jemison I would be happy to sell. PM for pix.
 
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