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Door Seals 2019: latest and greatest?

8568 Views 69 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  bulletpruf
Hi all

I bought door seals maybe.... 4 years ago? Truly can not recall which supplier, believe may have been AlfaService Germany. I have had them periodically on and off while fettling with other bits and am ready to make the final push to get my car all sealed in. I'm not saying the seals I have are definitively too thick but I do recall the utter joy that came with buying the "low profile" version of the trunk seal - it went from being something I Coooould in theory slam hard enough to latch to something that closed like a modern car.

Therefore before I start this most loathsome task of dialing in rubber and metal bits to make a nice seal, I'd like to have the best possible seals in hand.

What are those in 2019, almost 2020 (!)

Thanks and happy holidays all

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I have the same question. My car, 74 GTV, has new door seals but the doors are ridiculously difficult to open and close. The pins are good and the doors seem properly aligned. I would change the seals if there is a better product available. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Just ordered from classic alfa. See their blurb on latest and greatest. Will install this wknd.
I have the same question. My car, 74 GTV, has new door seals but the doors are ridiculously difficult to open and close. The pins are good and the doors seem properly aligned. I would change the seals if there is a better product available. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
same here, my doors feel like they're stuck to the seals and i also have to slam the door closed hard to get it to shut right. if there are better seals i need them.
Just ordered from classic alfa. See their blurb on latest and greatest. Will install this wknd.
r-mm Anxious to hear how these work. Please let us know.
Anxiously waiting to hear a report on these gaskets. Just bought an Alfa myself with new gaskets all around and I am not particularly happy about how the doors and trunk fit...or the windshield for that matter. As other have indicated, it feels/looks like there is too much gasket in there. I watched the Vintage Customs videos about adjustment (and read about the cautions regarding their shop on this forum). Obviously, a gasket alone may not solve the issues.
Happy to share all my observations... but you guys need to help me with hardware before I can get these installed. I was trying to do the right thing and get metric sized sheet metal screws instead of using the closest approximation which would be a number four. Alfa specifies M2.9 in the parts manual so I ordered some. However they felt loose when going in and sure enough when I measure the original screws I get .115 inches. I am not really sure if metric screw sizes changed over the years or maybe this is not technically a sheet metal screw but some other bygone standard.

Anyone find a good replacement ?

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This is a guess on my part, but there appears to be a tolerance on the outside diameter of an M2.9 thread (as well as the inside diameter), with the maximum allowed diameter at 2.90mm and the minimum at 2.76mm. When you take measurement instrument accuracy into account, I'd say both the M2.9 and the Alfa screw are within tolerance. The new screw is close to the bottom end while the "Alfa" screw at the very top of the tolerance range.

https://www.trfastenings.com/products/knowledgebase/self-tapping-screws/thread-geometry

As a side note, as industry has improved its manufacturing precision, they have found money in targeting the lower end of a specification. For instance, 316L stainless steel contains 2.0 - 3.0% molybendum and 10 - 14% nickel. Steel manufacturers used to target the middle of the range, but now have the ability to get a lot closer to the bottom end of the specification and still have meet their minimum quality specs. There is obviously money to be found here for the steel manufacturer, but it caused some surprises to end users who always expected their products to withstand specific environments.

I'm not a familiar with screws, but in this particular case, looking at the minor diameter, the difference in metal between the minimum and maximum spec is 8.7% in term of material.That is a significant difference is all you do is make screws.
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I was able to get correct metric screws with dome head at Ace Hardware.
Happy to share all my observations... but you guys need to help me with hardware before I can get these installed. I was trying to do the right thing and get metric sized sheet metal screws instead of using the closest approximation which would be a number four. Alfa specifies M2.9 in the parts manual so I ordered some. However they felt loose when going in and sure enough when I measure the original screws I get .115 inches. I am not really sure if metric screw sizes changed over the years or maybe this is not technically a sheet metal screw but some other bygone standard.

Anyone find a good replacement ?
Rus, If you’re referring to the screws that secure the gaskets, I used the smallest American size pan (or oval) head SS screws that would provide a good bite with the existing screw holes. Keep in mind that the existing screw holes are probably stretched oversized from new. So unless you’re starting with a restoration where the holes have been welded up, hole size will vary much more than any factory screw tolerances. Whatever screw you use, you‘ll want it to secure the channel as tight tight to the body as possible, compressing your strip caulking as thin as possible. The small head will not prevent the gasket from fitting the channel. Since the screw head is hidden by the gasket, the choice of the screw head type is a mater of preference. Ken
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Thanks all. I have the drivers side test fitted and preliminarily it feels good. Bear in mind that every single part of the door system on my car has been rebuilt. The gaps are very nice without the seal but nonetheless there are lots of variables as you all know. I do have an approximately 2 inch section of extra seal when I am done with the install. I don’t believe I was stretching very hard at all as I went but I understand this is a common issue with all seals.

Can anyone confirm that this is most likely an installer not part problem? Any tips to ameliorate it?

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I am also seeing that the inside rear corner of the stainless window trim is pushing the door seal out of its channel. Does the relationship of the seal to the stainless trim look wrong?

Before closing door, door closed, door open pics:

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Metal Spoke Steel Auto part Rim
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Confirming the channel is as far inboard as it can be View attachment 1606916

Pulled the inner stainless trim and the door sheet metal still nudges the seal. Anyone have a pic of how this is supposed to look?

View attachment 1606917

Believe the door sheet metal may be bent to the inside some. View attachment 1606918
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I got the Classic Alfa seal for my '74 a few months ago and my experience was it fit great, though I can't say installing it was very enjoyable.

It's very easy to stretch the seal and wind up with extra length. What worked for me was to get the upper rear corner in first. Then I started the seal into the channel about six inches down and worked BACK to install it towards the corner. This lets you install the seal in a relaxed state and prevents over-tensioning it during the install.

You should also snip a few small holes in the "bulb" of the seal, like one on each section of seal. This lets the air escape when you close the door and makes for easier closing. There's an Alfa TSB on this from the '70s.

Anyway, new seal looks and works good.
On the installation I agree with Gubi, do one bit at a time working backwards and you won’t have excess. The new seals may already have to holes.

Regarding the b-pillar; is the first picture with the seal all the way in the channel? If it is, that does not look right to me, but I currently to have the Junior nearby to check.
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Here’s what it should look like... the end of the interior SS trim should be near flush to the forward crease of the seal recess in the door.
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Installing seal - attach seal into channel in several places around the whole perimeter . i.e top , bottom , a and b pillar , then work on installing between each of those points, before moving onto the next section .
Doing it this way you will know you have not stretched it on install.
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Rus, I’m assuming your top inner door trim is pushed as for forward as possible. In order to create a larger gap at the top rear corner of the door, there are two things you can try.
1) Adjust the door striker plate outboard as much as possible without having the door stuck out. This give more room for the seal to left/right.
2) Adiust the top door hinge by moving the door outboard. The angle of the hinge moves the top of the door forward, opening the gap between the B pillar and the door.
I was excited to see this post as I just complete the weather seals on my 74 GTV and I am having the same issue on the drivers side (passenger is fine). Like you, I verified that the inner chrome strip is as far forward as possible based on the attachment point at the top of the door as well fitment with the chrome strip that it touches at the front of the door frame. I also have rebuild the hinges with new pins and bushings. What I did find was the weather strip touched at the door bottom more so at the front of the door, so I adjusted the door hinges a bit upward as well as pivoted at the top a bit outward. THis did make things a better. If you do adjust the hinges take care not to adjust them outward too far -- and simply slam the door to check fitment -- as the upper hinge can move far enough to cause the door skin to pinch with the fender near the top. While things have improved it is still not perfect (or as good as the passenger side).

One other point, did feel the ones fromI have both the Alfaholics and Classic Alfa seals. They are very similar. I did feel (qualitatively) the Classic Alfa seals were a bit more flexible -- I purchased them in 2015. I understand the version today has an embossed mark on them from Cicognani. My versions do not have this mark. I am curious how they stack up and I look forward to your updates.
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Thanks for the informative post. All are helpful.
r-mm Did you complete the installation and do you have additional comments or suggestions?

My doors have improved with a coating of 3M silicone paste but the gaskets still need work or replacement.
same here, my doors feel like they're stuck to the seals and i also have to slam the door closed hard to get it to shut right. if there are better seals i need them.
+++1 Same story.
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