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Discussion Starter #1
Hello.

I think im in some deep ****. The door on the front right door wont unlock. Its is locked and i can't get the **** thing to open.

Iv manage to take of some of the interiour panel of the door to see if i could feel something, but i can't get the door lock to unlock.

How is this door lock working again? Anyone with pictures and some words on it? So i could se if there is something i could to to persuade the door to unlock?

Thank you all!
 

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I can't remember which car you have, but it is different before Super/LS/Q4. Do a search here and you should be able to find useful tips and maybe even pictures. I don't have the time right now to look for it, but maybe the procedure should be made a 'Sticky' thread here, as there will most likely be a lot more of these situations in the future...
 

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I had a similar problem but that occurred with my front driver's side door handle that had been stuck open. I just screwed out all the screws under the compartment and the door lock pop'ed back in. Just try playing with it a little, some trial and error stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had a similar problem but that occurred with my front driver's side door handle that had been stuck open. I just screwed out all the screws under the compartment and the door lock pop'ed back in. Just try playing with it a little, some trial and error stuff.
Well its not that problem. Iv checked if there is anything stuck, i manage to get my hand inside the door to feel around the lock but i can't seem to feel anything wrong. It must be something inside it. **** it!... :confused:
 

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Unscrew the plastic pin and put a pair of vise grips on the metal part and work it up and down. Worked for me more then once.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok il see if i can manage to persuade it with this method...
That actually worked. But i needed to use quite much force on it.

Now that i manage to get the door open and the locking mechanisme out i remeber more on how it works. But im still not sure. Iv had this one open before and put some greace in it. And now that i have the whole thing out it all works smooth as silk. No problem what so ever. That is really strange.

Does anyone have any clue on why this is happening and how i can prevent this from happening again later?
 

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I had to pull real hard on an LS door lock one time. I call it the Lenard method! I think the actuator just gets dry or maybe even worn and it sizes up.
 

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I had a very similar problem last week and solved it tonight...
I ended up pulling the doortrim off and taking out the five hex nuts securing the latch into the door - the two holding the window guide allow you to take out the latch with the door snib motor...

After cleaning it with silicone and WD40 I had a look if something was broken. Couldn't see anything, If you see how the part with the latch operates and how the door snib rod can't lock unless the clasps for the latch are ALL the way in you can see why it doesn't lock and unlock.

My door was only *just* closing (strike pin came loose on the door frame). When it closed and I adjusted the striker pin it was too far in so my latch never closed all the way and hence my doors couldn't lock either!
 

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I once had a lock stuck open, but that was because it was frozen (I had to warm the lock to get it open and then I shut the door but it opened again on the move).

When did you grease the lock? Was the mechanism clean then? Is the grease still clean?

I'd try washing the whole lock with solvent (acetone, engine cleaner, carburettor cleaner, etc) and then look for any scratched parts with protruding shavings. Might just be what causes it to jam.
For peace of mind I'd put PTFE lubricant on it, partly because it wouldn't trap so much dust and sand, if that's an issue where you drive.
 

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My passenger door lock suddenly refuses to unlock/lock with the key. I can see the key slightly moving the interior door lock knob at the top of the door but nothing more. It is as if am suddenly using slightly the wrong key but obviously am not.

No sign of any physical tampering with the lock. Any suggestions?

Richard

PS. 1995 164 S2
 

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I just had to replace a left rear lock mechanism to fix a lock that wouldn't work and a door ajar light on the dash. Probably the solenoid on the lock mechanism is bad.
 

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I just had to replace a left rear lock mechanism to fix a lock that wouldn't work and a door ajar light on the dash. Probably the solenoid on the lock mechanism is bad.
Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

Think the solenoid is fine as the door operates perfectly in every way, central locking included, except for when trying to use the key.

Is it possible to replace or repair the key lock barrel?

Richard
 

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If this happened, I think I'd try pushing in hard on the door and then trying to unlock or open it with the handle.
 

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Have you tried spraying the lock with WD 40, or PB Blaster?
 

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If this happened, I think I'd try pushing in hard on the door and then trying to unlock or open it with the handle.
Hi Roadtrip,

thanks for reply but don't understand the logic of pushing hard on the door. It is only the key part that is not working - the rest is fine.

Cheers,

Richard
 

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Here is a post I composed after solving my door lock issue
94 164LS Door Latch Problem - Door Locked - Latches Inoperative
Solution: Adjust door striker- the adjustable post on the car body, outwards to ensure full closed position of door lock jaws is achieved.

My drivers door was locked and wouldn't open - the inner and outer latches inoperative.
The lock post would not travel high enough to the unlock position when I attempted to unlock with the key or the lock/unlock button on the console.

THis problem seems common and I resolved my issue with a solution I haven't seen written up. The solution is logical and I think has wider application.

If you play with an open door you will see that the jaws on the lock that clamp over the door stiker have 3 positions marked by clicks and definative travel positions. Fully open, 3/4 closed and fully closed. When the jaws are fully closed they completely surround the door striker. When the jaws are fully open the door is free to open. When the jaws are 3/4 closed (door ajar? position) the door latches are inoperative, the lock post will not travel normally and feels spongy. Door lock will not travel to the unlock position. My door was closed with the jaws stuck in the 3/4 closed position.

First, following someones advice, I applied pressure to the outside of the door pushing the door inwards and trying to operate the outside latch and after a few tries the door opened. Then I took the doors apart and sprayed WD40 and lithium grease all over the place - all of this was UNNECESSARY. Then I played with the doors and determined the 3 stage action described above. It is possible to see all the possible operations of the locks by operating the jaws and the locking post without taking the door apart.

I had noticed earlier that the door was closing past flush with the post between the front and rear doors. Adjusting the door striker outwards and applying a bit of grease to the lock jaws ensures the fully closed position is achieved. After 1000's of openings and closings the door striker had been bumped inwards.

Hope this saves someone some grief.
 

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Here is a post I composed after solving my door lock issue
94 164LS Door Latch Problem - Door Locked - Latches Inoperative
Solution: Adjust door striker- the adjustable post on the car body, outwards to ensure full closed position of door lock jaws is achieved.

My drivers door was locked and wouldn't open - the inner and outer latches inoperative.
The lock post would not travel high enough to the unlock position when I attempted to unlock with the key or the lock/unlock button on the console.

THis problem seems common and I resolved my issue with a solution I haven't seen written up. The solution is logical and I think has wider application.

If you play with an open door you will see that the jaws on the lock that clamp over the door stiker have 3 positions marked by clicks and definative travel positions. Fully open, 3/4 closed and fully closed. When the jaws are fully closed they completely surround the door striker. When the jaws are fully open the door is free to open. When the jaws are 3/4 closed (door ajar? position) the door latches are inoperative, the lock post will not travel normally and feels spongy. Door lock will not travel to the unlock position. My door was closed with the jaws stuck in the 3/4 closed position.

First, following someones advice, I applied pressure to the outside of the door pushing the door inwards and trying to operate the outside latch and after a few tries the door opened. Then I took the doors apart and sprayed WD40 and lithium grease all over the place - all of this was UNNECESSARY. Then I played with the doors and determined the 3 stage action described above. It is possible to see all the possible operations of the locks by operating the jaws and the locking post without taking the door apart.

I had noticed earlier that the door was closing past flush with the post between the front and rear doors. Adjusting the door striker outwards and applying a bit of grease to the lock jaws ensures the fully closed position is achieved. After 1000's of openings and closings the door striker had been bumped inwards.

Hope this saves someone some grief.

Hi,

thanks for the detailed reply but this is not the issue with mine; the door positions well and works fine in every way except can't get the key to turn. Think it might have happened when my musician wife locked it with the key really hard and fast when she was in a hurry a few months back and has maybe jammed or bent something linked to the barrel.

The WD40 spray made no difference by the way.

Thanks,

Richard
 

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Hi,

thanks for the detailed reply but this is not the issue with mine; the door positions well and works fine in every way except can't get the key to turn. Think it might have happened when my musician wife locked it with the key really hard and fast when she was in a hurry a few months back and has maybe jammed or bent something linked to the barrel.

The WD40 spray made no difference by the way.

Thanks,

Richard
Since it is the passenger side door and door lock system works otherwise it is a "fly gripe" if you can live with it.

I suspect to find true cause of it you need to remove inner door panel.
 
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