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Discussion Starter #81
Mingia, che pinza!
Do they know you by name at Princess Auto?
Pretty much ! :grin2:

When I tell my wife I'm going to PA, she knows where I'm going. :wink2:

Vin
 

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I'm trying to find the original dimensions for the door strap on the series 1 Spyder/Duetto. Length/ Width/ Height. Anyone got a drawing or pics with measurements?
 

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Sorry to hear about the poor quality straps. I hope the whole assembly I bought at Centerline is the original plastic over metal--it was a bear to switch it out through the little tunnel and channel behind the window motor! I'm saying the real cost on this job was the LABOR.
 

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Need to replace passenger side on my Spider Junior. After reading this I might add it to my list of winter projects.....
 

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I replaced a strap a few years ago. I ended up chucking the rollers in my drill press and turning them down until they worked. I guess should have measured the final diameter of the rollers!
 

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door straps

I was putting this job off for a while but I needed to replace a window regulator and it's raining in Ridgefield CT today so I figured I would kill two birds. I read this thread at work yesterday and was ready for some trouble but I am happy to report that the straps and rollers that I bought from Classic Alfa fit perfectly and work fine. No cutting or grinding.
Now if the regulator was as easy. I have done that job a few times and it is one that I dislike. Fiddly and frustrating. My car has the old style chrome handles and all the vendore sell regulators with shafts that are too long. Finally went to the grinder and fixed it up. All in all a good day, I knocked off a couple of things that were on my list for a while.
 

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@ntvnyer- I just had the same experience with my 66 Sprint GT.
I just bought a set of rollers, pins and straps from Classic Alfa. The fit is great, they swapped right in, and function perfectly without modification.
 

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As we say out here in the country, I'm fixin' to replace my door limit straps in my '91 Spider, so I pulled out the kits I've had in the parts bin for a few years and measured the roller OD. It's nominal 7/16" diameter, which helps explain why the 3/8" OD nylon rollers work so well. Based on the experiences described in this thread, I think I'll pick up the 3/8" diameter rollers at Lowes, drill them out as suggested for the pins, and try them first. What I will not do is try to sand down or reshape the rubber coated straps.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
As we say out here in the country, I'm fixin' to replace my door limit straps in my '91 Spider, so I pulled out the kits I've had in the parts bin for a few years and measured the roller OD. It's nominal 7/16" diameter, which helps explain why the 3/8" OD nylon rollers work so well. Based on the experiences described in this thread, I think I'll pick up the 3/8" diameter rollers at Lowes, drill them out as suggested for the pins, and try them first. What I will not do is try to sand down or reshape the rubber coated straps.
Yes, the nylon rollers drilled out work. I would never try to reshape the straps.

The other thing to remember, and I dont think we have talked about this in this thread, is that there is a specific Up and Down that the straps need to be installed on each side.

You will see that the straps have bumps on each side, one closer and one farther from the front of the door. For the straps to work properly, and the ability to close the door with normal force, the straps have to be installed correctly.

mcola and I went through this recently when he changed his straps out.

I will look for a picture. Hope I have one.

Vin
 

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Oh, such bad memories of doing this job. Not hard, just a real pain in the culo! At least it was for me.
I swear it wasn't worth the headache. Mine turned out a little too snug and really get hung up on the stops.
If/when I'm ever in the doors again, I'm debating re-drilling the roller ID's one drill size larger to give the straps the extra clearance they need.
 

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For anyone planning this job, you DO NOT need to shave or drill anything. See the thread "'86 Spider Door Stop Replacement" and the post in there by Karl Schwarz. I used Centerline straps item DH395 (SPI 66-94) and rollers DH397. I reused all my pins, they were fine and just needed to be cleaned up with a little emery paper. Treat the pins with PB Blaster before attempting to remove them. Very important to ensure the new rollers spin freely... I had to sand down the end of my rollers a bit as they were binding against the housings. Avoid petroleum grease as it can deteriorate the rubber; I used silicone grease. Definitely tie a string to the assembly before removal, as the string later guides the rebuilt assembly back in. Label the top of the assembly before fishing it back in, as it can turn over during the process. This all worked perfectly. Door function is normal, not too stiff or too loose. No need to shave straps or fabricate rollers.
 

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For anyone planning this job, you DO NOT need to shave or drill anything. See the thread "'86 Spider Door Stop Replacement" and the post in there by Karl Schwarz. I used Centerline straps item DH395 (SPI 66-94) and rollers DH397. I reused all my pins, they were fine and just needed to be cleaned up with a little emery paper. Treat the pins with PB Blaster before attempting to remove them. Very important to ensure the new rollers spin freely... I had to sand down the end of my rollers a bit as they were binding against the housings. Avoid petroleum grease as it can deteriorate the rubber; I used silicone grease. Definitely tie a string to the assembly before removal, as the string later guides the rebuilt assembly back in. Label the top of the assembly before fishing it back in, as it can turn over during the process. This all worked perfectly. Door function is normal, not too stiff or too loose. No need to shave straps or fabricate rollers.
You make a very good point here, of making certain the rollers actually ROTATE freely on the pins. I wonder how many others did this installation, and unknowingly had rollers that were bound up tight, or were hard to roll? That would definitely account for stiff-to-impossible operation. And I agree no petroleum base lube should be used, but you can safely use Parker Seal's O-Lube (rubber lubricant) on any rubber seal or molded item like these straps.

Going back to the diameter of the rollers, though, and the gap between them, I really am a bit skeptical about that narrow slot allowing that hard rubber lump to pass through it. Those straps feel like at least 90 durometer to the touch. I may try the original rollers first with the assembly in my bench vise, then evaluate.

But then, like others have said previously, these things have to function like they do or the door won't stay open on a grade.
 

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A week or two back, I went through this minor flogging exercise on my Duetto. Not nearly as bad as the vent window gasket replacement...

I used the kit from Classic Alfa with the straps, rollers and pins. The rollers were too large for the strap to pass between resulting in the strap getting a little deformed the first time I tried to close the door. I like the look of the rollers from Lowe's but used a piece of clear tubing -from my brake line bleeder. The black roller had to go toward the outside of the car with the clear tubing toward the inside or center.

The rubber strap squeaked a bit until it was sprayed with WD-40. Happy with results now.

Mark
 

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Sounds like results vary depending on the source of your parts. On my S3, Centerline straps DH395 (SPI 66-94) and rollers DH397 worked together without any issues.
 

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I installed the complete door strap assemblies from Classic Alfa https://classicalfa.com/mi002-spider-door-check-strap-complete/ on my fresh-from-repaint S2, and the only thing I did was wipe a bit of grease on the straps, and open and close gently a few times. They've been fine since. No issue to install either, but in fairness, I did not have to contend with electric window hardware...
 

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A week or two back, I went through this minor flogging exercise on my Duetto. Not nearly as bad as the vent window gasket replacement...

Mark
Wonderful. I plan on starting these two jobs in the next couple of days. Sounds like I should stock the liquor cabinet
 

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Strap orientation

I am confused which way the strap is oriented...it is NOT symmetric, so there is a correct way and an incorrect way. Attached are two pictures of possible driver side orientations of the strap. Which one is correct? Thanks!!
 

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