Yes, the nylon rollers drilled out work. I would never try to reshape the straps.As we say out here in the country, I'm fixin' to replace my door limit straps in my '91 Spider, so I pulled out the kits I've had in the parts bin for a few years and measured the roller OD. It's nominal 7/16" diameter, which helps explain why the 3/8" OD nylon rollers work so well. Based on the experiences described in this thread, I think I'll pick up the 3/8" diameter rollers at Lowes, drill them out as suggested for the pins, and try them first. What I will not do is try to sand down or reshape the rubber coated straps.
You make a very good point here, of making certain the rollers actually ROTATE freely on the pins. I wonder how many others did this installation, and unknowingly had rollers that were bound up tight, or were hard to roll? That would definitely account for stiff-to-impossible operation. And I agree no petroleum base lube should be used, but you can safely use Parker Seal's O-Lube (rubber lubricant) on any rubber seal or molded item like these straps.For anyone planning this job, you DO NOT need to shave or drill anything. See the thread "'86 Spider Door Stop Replacement" and the post in there by Karl Schwarz. I used Centerline straps item DH395 (SPI 66-94) and rollers DH397. I reused all my pins, they were fine and just needed to be cleaned up with a little emery paper. Treat the pins with PB Blaster before attempting to remove them. Very important to ensure the new rollers spin freely... I had to sand down the end of my rollers a bit as they were binding against the housings. Avoid petroleum grease as it can deteriorate the rubber; I used silicone grease. Definitely tie a string to the assembly before removal, as the string later guides the rebuilt assembly back in. Label the top of the assembly before fishing it back in, as it can turn over during the process. This all worked perfectly. Door function is normal, not too stiff or too loose. No need to shave straps or fabricate rollers.