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Discussion Starter #1
OK. Things are going well, so far.

I’ve got the handle off and out. :)

I used an 8mm wrench to remove the 3 nuts holding the 2 ‘U’ shaped brackets holding the Handle to the Door sheet metal. However, it was stuck at this point. The Key Tumbler arm is in the way, so I then had to remove the Key Tumbler arm by using a 7mm wrench.

I was surprised to see that there is a right and left door handle! Notice the pointy protrusion near the Key Tumbler.

Now…

How do I get the Key Tumbler out? :confused:

Is it a press fit?

Is there a hidden clip?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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It looks like you got everything off the back. Once you do that, put the key in the lock and I believe the tumbler should slide out. Right now the lock plates are holding it in place (which is what keeps the tumbler from turning without the key as well).

Keep the key in the tumbler until you insert it into the new handle. That should prevent the lock plates from falling out and you having to reassemble everything.

I've never done this on the doors, but this is what I remember from the glove box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looks like you got everything off the back. Once you do that, put the key in the lock and I believe the tumbler should slide out. Right now the lock plates are holding it in place (which is what keeps the tumbler from turning without the key as well).

Keep the key in the tumbler until you insert it into the new handle. That should prevent the lock plates from falling out and you having to reassemble everything.

I've never done this on the doors, but this is what I remember from the glove box.
Awsome! Thanks for the tips.

I'll try that in the morning. I need my beauty sleep right now. :confused::eek: Goodnight all.

Any other tips, hints, ideas, lock lubricant ideas, etc., etc., etc., will be welcomed. ;)

Thanks. :)
 

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Hey Spiderweb,

I currently doing the same thing at the moment, I had the door handles re-chromed and I'm having trouble getting the key to return to its normal position, after you turn the key that is.
Look carefully at how the spring is attached and put it back the same way.
I think my handles have a really thick coating of chrome, that i will to file down so the barrel moves easily.
Do me a favor take a picture for me of the spring and the washer with the lip on it that pushes on the spring, i forget to take picture (can you believe it?) before i took it apart and i am just wonder maybe i got it wrong when i assembled it, or maybe they are not interchangeable.
I got one of my door handles back Saturday because they were have problems taking out the pitting, so i will try the barrel in this handle and see if makes a difference. The chrome looks even thicker then other one, look good though. The chrome looks better then the chrome on new door locks, much brighter.
The other thing to check, when you insert the key and you pull the barrel out make sure all the pins are low, I notice on one of the lock that a few stayed up just a bit that caused a grove on the inside of the lock.

I used little anti seize grease just near the stainless steel of the barrel and on the pins i used Teflon powder. If you intend on pulling the pins out to clean them, make sure you stick them on to a bit of masking tape, like i did.

Thanks
Rich
Rich
 

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What do you know, I did take a picture. I have been putting the spring incorrectly, the way a did it only returns the spring if you move it in one direction but not the other. Look at spring position, and look at the tab that sticks out from the washer, that tab goes in the middle. Man i feel like going into the garage now, but it's 1:37am.

Thanks again

Rich
 

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Hi,

I was just doing the same thing with my project Spider a week ago. Luckily I had a couple of extra handles to investigate how to put everything back right.

Has anyone tried to take the ignition lock apart? I would like to make it work with the same key that doors do, but I didn't manage to get the ignition lock key tumbler out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here it is all disassembled. All of the bits are identified as to where they belong their position and what way to face in the tumbler.

One minor issue. THE KEY WILL NOT GO IN! I never checked it because the handle was broken to begin with. I ASSUMED it was OK. Foolish me.

With everything taken apart, the key will not go in any deeper than shown. :confused:

I'll go to a locksmith on Monday. I've drawn the key and lock slot. It seems like it should slide right in. Aligning the key with the internal bits is a very close match. But, the key will not enter. I don't know what it is hanging up on. :(

Answer on Monday I hope. :)
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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That's because it looks like you're using the ignition key. There should be a separate door key of a different cut (like the all-silver one in the pics above), right? This is the same key for the doors, glove box, and trunk.

Unless you got the door key recut at some point using a black-handled blank...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's because it looks like you're using the ignition key. There should be a separate door key of a different cut (like the all-silver one in the pics above), right? This is the same key for the doors, glove box, and trunk.

Unless you got the door key recut at some point using a black-handled blank...

This was the only key that came with the car. OK. I suppose I need a locksmith to cut new keys for the door. Is the trunk the same? I dread taking that thing apart just to find out. Help on this point would be gratefully acknowledged. :D
 

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The one door key opens the glove box, the doors and the boot and the other key is just for the ignition and is small in size compared to the door key. The lock smith should be able to re-do the barrel to the door key that you have, if you don't have a key for the doors then the locksmith should be able to make on for you.

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The one door key opens the glove box, the doors and the boot and the other key is just for the ignition and is small in size compared to the door key. The lock smith should be able to re-do the barrel to the door key that you have, if you don't have a key for the doors then the locksmith should be able to make on for you.

Rich
Thank you. You have saved me many hours of work or research. Have a great weekend.
 

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Has anyone tried to take the ignition lock apart? I would like to make it work with the same key that doors do, but I didn't manage to get the ignition lock key tumbler out.
Rasvis this won't work, they are two different keys, it won't work because the door key has cuts on both side which means you can put it either way and it will work, as for the ignition key it only fit one way, if try the opposite side it won't fit.

Just finished putting my locks back and they work fine after I filed the barrel passage.

Rich
 

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The igniton key show in post 7 sure looks like it's cut on both side and is reversable, and as my own ignition keys don't care which way they are put into the switch.... :shrug:

Still, the blank for the doors/glovebox/trunk is definitely and completely different AFA length and how the grooves/offsets are cut into the sides.
 

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I have found it impossible to source the right keys locally, but these guys will sell you the correct key. Your locksmith should then be able to make it work
www.keysforclassics.com
 

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Rasvis this won't work, they are two different keys
Ok, that's why my ignition key did not fit my old door locks. Thanks!

My car came with just one (ignition) key and it looks like the one in SpiderWebb's pic. I thought those plastic end things with cloverleaf belong originally to 80s Alfas and the one with big round end in your pic is the original 70s key, but if SpiderWebb's key looks like mine too, I guess they're both original then?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
'The End', or should I say 'FIN'.

I went to the biggest and best local locksmith I could find today. They had the correct blank hanging on the wall and within 15 minutes had 2 new keys made from my old tumbler alone. :D

They nicked me for $28 but, it's a small price to pay to be able to put my car back together again! They said they had new blanks at $8 for any copies I may need. ;)

The action is so nice and smooth now. Thanks for all your help. The photos and advice were priceless. Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy!! :)

The End

or should I say;

FIN

or

FINI ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Forgot the photo...

These door handles are works of art. It's probably my all time favorite door handle.

Bellissima!
 

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My '86 only came with a ignition key. I would like to have keys cut for my doors, trunk and glove box. My question is can a locksmith cut a key from my glove box without me having to remove door handle. I know some cars glove box locks only use 3 or 4 of the 5 tumblers. Is this true with my '86? In other words, does the glove box lock have the same number of tumblers as the door?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My '86 only came with a ignition key. I would like to have keys cut for my doors, trunk and glove box. My question is can a locksmith cut a key from my glove box without me having to remove door handle. I know some cars glove box locks only use 3 or 4 of the 5 tumblers. Is this true with my '86? In other words, does the glove box lock have the same number of tumblers as the door?
My car is an '81 (Series 2) so I don't know for sure about an '86 (Series 3).

A WAG would be that you will neeed to use the one from the door. Good luck. :)
 

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It looks like you got everything off the back. Once you do that, put the key in the lock and I believe the tumbler should slide out. Right now the lock plates are holding it in place (which is what keeps the tumbler from turning without the key as well).

Keep the key in the tumbler until you insert it into the new handle. That should prevent the lock plates from falling out and you having to reassemble everything.

I've never done this on the doors, but this is what I remember from the glove box.

First, the tip above works!

Okay, I had fun doing this repair last night. The car came with just the ignition key but with two rechromed handles in the trunk to replace the pitted handles on the car. After getting the keys made by the locksmith for $40, I started on the passenger side. Do one side at a time; so, you can use the the other side as reference. Alternatively, take lots of pictures. Anyway, the driver's side took about about 15 minutes to change out after having learned on the other side.

I used NAPA lock graphite lubricant spray to lube the lock tumbler and white lithium grease spray for all the moving parts on the handle.

While you have the door panel off, lube all the other moving parts like the window crank and regulator system inside the door as well as the interior door lock handle and any other moving part that is part of the door locking mechanism.

And I sprayed PB Blaster on the lock itself (the articulating "c" shaped part).

And, before I forget, I brought the passenger side door handle with tumbler to the locksmith because it should be the least used side; thus, making it easier for the locksmith to make a good key. It took me about 20 minutes from start to finish to remove the handle.

Joe
 
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