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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The driver side exterior door handle/latch on my GTV6 broke, as so many do. After some time I was able to source a new one, that has a lock and key included. I want to keep my existing lock and key. So my options seem to be:

1. Remove the lock cylinder from both door handles and put my original lock into the new handle. The lock appears to be riveted to the handle assembly in two places.

2. Remove the latch/flap from the new handle assembly and install onto my original. This looks somewhat complicated- there are two pins securing the latch. I would need to try and see if I could tap them out, at risk of breaking the handle assembly.

I tried to take some useful pictures but it may be hard to make sense of.

Anyone have experience taking these door handles apart? I would be grateful for any advice on which option offers the path of least resistance or other ideas on how to approach this.


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I've done some of that in the past. I had no trouble with driving the pins out with a drift, nor replacing. But you may want to check to be sure the pins aren't tapered before knowing which direction to go. The lock cylinder is held in place by the two swaged heads which are cast aluminum and not separate rivets. Once you grind off the swaged heads, there won't be enough metal left to swage them back. As I remember, I had to drill and tap to be able to use tiny bolts.
 

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Slightly unrelated... isn't that a primary (ignition) key? I thought the door and hatch keys were the ones with the circular (all metal) 'heads'
 

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Slightly unrelated... isn't that a primary (ignition) key? I thought the door and hatch keys were the ones with the circular (all metal) 'heads'
Yes, that's true. Round for locks, square for ignition. Usually if you get a new lock and ignition set they all use the same key. It's sort of a convenience thing I guess.
 

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I have two gtv6s (83 & 84) and the keys look just like this. Dimple key with an angular black head. My ignition keys are similar, but have a more rounded head and use pin tumblers.


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Correction to my repair tip for swaged heads that secure the lock cylinder to the metal surround:
I filed the remainder of the broken heads off flat so I could have a surface that a drill bit wouldn't want to 'walk off'. Then drilled thru to the opposite side (exterior) from the back side. From the exterior side I used a larger drill bit to create a beveled countersink, just deep enough that the screw head would be a bit below flush. Then used some Super Glue to bond the screw heads to the conical countersinks. To hide the screw heads on the appearance side, I filled with Bondo, sanded, and painted.

Not sure if just soldering or brazing new heads to those studs would have worked, as the studs are an aluminum pot metal and the lock base is steel? But the extra work allowed me to utilize the same key for both LT & RT doors vs finding a complete handle assy using a different key per side. Very likely stronger than the original swaged 'rivet' heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all for the tips/advice on this. Well once I dug deeper the problem magnified. My original handle’s lock cylinder is cracked , and was about to completely break, so it would not stay in its place in the door handle any longer. My plan is to move the lock to the replacement handle; will report back.

The side conversation about the keys is interesting. In my case the square headed key with divots is the door/hatch key and the ignition key is a smaller metal key with round head. But I replaced my ignition with a used one previously so it is not original.


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Thanks all for the tips/advice on this. Well once I dug deeper the problem magnified. My original handle’s lock cylinder is cracked , and was about to completely break, so it would not stay in its place in the door handle any longer. My plan is to move the lock to the replacement handle; will report back.

The side conversation about the keys is interesting. In my case the square headed key with divots is the door/hatch key and the ignition key is a smaller metal key with round head. But I replaced my ignition with a used one previously so it is not original.


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Have you thought of dismantling the lock barrel and taking the pins out (making sure to keep them in order) and put them into the cylinder of the new handle/ lock set? Ive done it a couple times, as long as you take your time it all works out.
Drilling out the lock itself will probably create lots of issues down the road.
 
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