Well, the glib answer is: remove your hinge, press out the old worn pin, press in a new pin, reinstall the hinge. Worn hinges usually give the symptom of wobbly doors - can you feel play when you lift the rear of the door? Do your doors sag? Those are the usual signs of worn hinges.Hinge pins. Hmmmm. Will you please explain how this is done? Hopefully it is something I (read: inexperienced hack) can do on my own???
Thank you so much Jay. I will try the masking tape trick on the striker and adjust as necessary (adjust the striker or the door plate which is better?). I just went and lifted the rear of the door up and down and felt no play at all.Door gaps must be considered in 3 dimensions. If your door is flush with the body along its front seam, flush at the top rear, and sticking out at the bottom rear, then the problem is either a twisted door or a door seal that protrudes too far out at the back/rear. No amount of adjusting/shimming the hinges is going to fix that.
Note that the top of your striker looks a little mashed in this photo. You might need to adjust it downward. I check this by putting a piece of masking tape on the striker, and seeing if the plate on the door tears it off - if it does, more clearance is needed.
Well, the glib answer is: remove your hinge, press out the old worn pin, press in a new pin, reinstall the hinge. Worn hinges usually give the symptom of wobbly doors - can you feel play when you lift the rear of the door? Do your doors sag? Those are the usual signs of worn hinges.
As previously mentioned, I did check for play (by opening the door and attempting to lift it) and felt none at all. However, the top of the striker plate is slightly damaged. I will check this with tape to see if it is a current condition or if the damage is from past wear.True, you should check your hinges for play, but the easiest check is to open the door and attempted to lift it. Any play will be obvious.
A sagging door will also wear the top of the striker as the trailing edge of the door is too low.
I usually start with the plate on the body - its three mounting bolts allow for quite a bit of movement. Does the latch on the door allow for adjustment? I'm not sure it does.I will try the masking tape trick on the striker and adjust as necessary (adjust the striker or the door plate which is better?)
Yup, door seals are the bane of GT owners' existence. If you car was restored 12 years ago, the seals may have hardened with time and/or were sourced before GT owners became aware of the dimensional issues with some repro parts.I'm starting to think it may be the seals.
1750GT: I will try your test on the door seals to see if that isolates/resolves the problem. If so... what next? OEM seals??? I know "Pathung" is working on new ones but apparently not quite ready yet. Thanks for the help!
Yup, that's what my bodyman did on my Sprint. Years of slamming the door on ill-fitting seals had warped the door so that the lower/rear corner protruded outward.Not for the faint of heart but I've seen experienced body men grab that very corner and bend the crap out of it.
Thanks for the heads up. I see evidence of this having happened to my car in the past .And, I came away with a horror story to pass on: One of the combinations resulted in the front edge of the door being too close to the back edge of the front fender and I ended up with a chip in my new paint. So, watch very closely as you open and close the door after each adjustment. Good luck. Tim
Thanks for all that good info. In another current thread of the same nature in the "Sedans" forum, Roland (GiuliaBianca) mentions the following:I have done a lot of research and was all set to reproduce these seals in my factory and then I had to close the factory... I bought seals from every supplier and even had an unused Alfa spare and an original seal from an unmolested GTV. My conclusion: There are no acceptable seals made in the universe today. Even the Alfa NOS part was too bulky. The original Alfa seals (the ones that were installed at the factory) are a much more delicate affair with very thin sidewalls (you won't know this unless you section them). As the years went by I'm guessing that the makers of these parts or subsequent suppliers cheated and fattened it up to make it easier to produce.
Jay is correct too that they will take a set and if yours have been on for 12 years more than likely that is the case. But I have had to slam my doors so hard that the glass has come off the track with the new seals.
Back to your situation. It doesn't sound like a hinge issue. The best way to adjust your doors is to (gulp) remove the seal altogether. Without the seal you would then align the door (which would require adjusting the hinges and tweaking the door) until the trailing edge of the door is just inside the plane of the body. Then, with seal installed the door should close flush.
Honestly, this is one of those technique areas that I would gladly pay someone to do. As Tim mentioned above - chipping the paint is very easy to do...
Thank you Stuart. If I need to employ this method, does anyone have copy or a link to where this might be posted?This method is shown in the Giulietta Workshop Manual. With some effort you should be able to twist the door back into shape and not damage the paintwork.