[spidryell]

The passenger side check strap on my 82 Spider bound up and bent and prevented the door from closing. I'm hoping there is a trick to repairing and replacing this item that I am missing.

I pulled the pin holding the check strap and then loosened the bolts holding the assembly and pushed the bound up parts inside the door. I dissasembled the inside door door panel and found that I can just barely reach the assembly from the inside of the door but there does not appear to a way of getting it out. Do I need to remove the window and the power window regulator to make room?

I also saw some previous threads complaining about the quality of the replacement straps. Has anyone had good luck with a particular supplier. I do see that IAP has these in stock.

Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

Yes you do have to remove the window, power regulator and unbolt the lower vent window frame bolt to remove the door strap assembly. And even with all this removed to twist and turn the assembly around the door reinforcement channels will be a very frustrating experience. And yes the dimensional accuracy of the replacement straps is very poor. I got mine from Centerline. I ended up reworking the replacement straps by reducing the locking humps to make them function properly. I also question the original design since the pinch rollers are not spring loaded. All in all a very frustrating experience since I had to install and remove the assembly several times before I liked the performance of the straps. Good luck

 

[spidryell]

Thanks,

I will order the IAP version and will post the results. Hopefully they will work better.

 

[slam105]

My Alfa repair guy down here in SoFlorida said replacing that part is "...an ugly, ugly job..."! Apparently others have come to the same conclusion.

Good Luck!

Regards

 

[RogerD]

why

which must explain why the straps on my 72 are the ugliest, grottiest parts on the whole car.

 

[spidryell]

This morning I decided to install the new strap. Removed the window, removed the bolt from the bottom of the guide channel and started to remove window regulator. First two nuts - no problem, then the last one just decided to spin in the regulator frame. Ended up having to pull out the Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the nut off.

I found that you can get to the door check assembly using the access hole beneath the door handle. You do have to tun it about 90 degrees to get it out. Put parts together and started the reassembly process only to find out that you must put the strap at its furthest point to be able to install the pin in the door frame. Back out reassembled the parts and installed it only to have the same experience as AxelC. New strap would not allow the door to close. Took it out and ground away at the humps. After the third try of grinding and reassembly I finally got enough material off to allow the door to close.

I had not completely removed the regulator and the wires but the wires do unravel from around the drum. Another recent posts idea of using foam to hold the cables in place does work. A fair amount of patience is need to get the cables back around all the pulleys and to get everyting adjusted.

Total time 5 hours. I guess if I decide to tackle the drivers door I could now do it in about 2 hours or less.

 

[slam105]

This morning I decided to install the new strap. Removed the window, removed the bolt from the bottom of the guide channel and started to remove window regulator. First two nuts - no problem, then the last one just decided to spin in the regulator frame. Ended up having to pull out the Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the nut off.

I found that you can get to the door check assembly using the access hole beneath the door handle. You do have to tun it about 90 degrees to get it out. Put parts together and started the reassembly process only to find out that you must put the strap at its furthest point to be able to install the pin in the door frame. Back out reassembled the parts and installed it only to have the same experience as AxelC. New strap would not allow the door to close. Took it out and ground away at the humps. After the third try of grinding and reassembly I finally got enough material off to allow the door to close.

I had not completely removed the regulator and the wires but the wires do unravel from around the drum. Another recent posts idea of using foam to hold the cables in place does work. A fair amount of patience is need to get the cables back around all the pulleys and to get everyting adjusted.

Total time 5 hours. I guess if I decide to tackle the drivers door I could now do it in about 2 hours or less.

Better YOU than me!!!

Regards

 

[Bill77]

I tried a door strap rebuild kit, and it was junk. The thing was so stiff that the arm bent in half. On the other hand, the complete door strap assembly that I bought from Centerline worked like a charm. The part didn't need any grinding.

 

[bobcor]

I need to replace the door check straps on a 93 SPIDER and wanted to visit the Alfa BB to get some info. The existing straps are rubber coated metal and the rubber coating is badly disintegrated. I ordered rebuild kits from IAP(they did not have the complete units in stock) and they-the straps- are very much different than the original. They appear to be some sort of plastic and have a much thicker profile than the original even allowing for the worn away rubber. After reading the previous posts I plan to return them and get the ones from Centerline. It's clear the door has to come off as there is no way to get at the strap from inside the door. Earlier cars seem to have access after removing the window regulator et al (as previously posted by others) but the internal box beam in the 93 door covers the area where the strap is.Is it easier to take the door off -and put back- by removing the hinge plate from the car body or to remove the hinge mounts from inside the door? Thanks.

 

[backfeeder]

bobcor please post your results when you install the Centerline kit. I also need to replace both of my door stops before serious injury results.

 

[spidryell]

Originally I also thought there was no way to reach the assembly due to the box beams in the door. I was able to just touch the parts from the main window access hole (very long arms) but I found there was a much smaller access hole just below the door handle. This access hole allows you to reach in between the box beams. I just removed every plastic cover and plug on the door until I found the one that worked. Of course I still had to remove the window regulator.

I'm not sure how removing the door would give you access. I considered that as well but saw no way that would help.

Good Luck.

 

[bobcor]

My thought in removing the door was that it appears that I would be able to have more room to "wiggle" the assembly out from the opening where it's mounted. Before I do that I will recheck again for any access from inside the door. I looked with a mirror and light and saw nothing. I plan to get the complete door strap units from Centerline as the picture on their website looks like what is on the car now - notwithstanding the "wear and tear". The strap repair kits appear to be the same thick profile as those from IAP. I plan to call and ask some questions before ordering online. Thanks for the input.

 

[Alfamante]

Reviving an old post rather than starting a new thread. I too have badly worn check straps that look horrible and really bite. I've had the driver's door fly out into traffic a few times while exiting, and just thank my lucky stars that I still have a door.

The replacement straps appear to be universally condemned here. The choice on check strap assemblies come down to two:

This one from International Auto Parts for $82.50:

and this one from Centerline Auto for $85.60:

Still haven't heard the definative word on which of these is better, works better, etc. Still have not heard the definative word on how to install with mininum difficulties.

Appeciate any guidance or feedback.

 

[Vintre]

Alfamante,

Hope this helps. It's about my door strap installation.

I don't think it was too bad a job and looks like we came up with a better mouse trap.

This way, you only need the straps and not the whole assembly, saving 50% of the cost.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/67483-door-limit-strap-installation.html

Good luck!

Vin

 

[triker203]

Update on this post...I have a 1982 Spider..Without power windows and had no problem at all installings the complete unit from IAP...The only thing is that you have to re-use
the pin that is at the end of the strap. You have to hit them from the bottom and they will pop right out and are good to re-use..Did not have to take out windows or any of the previous post problems. A 5 minute job after you remove the door panels and handles. BUT...YOUR HAND HAS TO BE SMALL ENOUGH to reach the unit or your in trouble...

 

[Alfajay]

I have a 1982 Spider..Without power windows and had no problem at all installings the complete unit from IAP... A 5 minute job after you remove the door panels and handles.

I have never thought this to be a difficult job either. Then again, both my Duetto and Sprint GT were built back in the 1960's, before the days of power windows and side impact beams.

My explanation is that Alfa never re-designed the door check system as they kept adding more junk to the inside of the door. So something that is very accessable on a 1966 car is impossible to get at on a 90's car.

 

[triker203]

Very True. They do need a re-design on this.

 

[2Tomato]

So a Centerline "complete unit" is a quality working replacement..?

 

[triker203]

I got mine at IAP...I would think Centerline would be ok too!!!

 

[jdd5300]

Has anyone ever tried using something similar to the door limiter straps found on a Jeep Wrangler?

Not ideal, but cheap as dirt and hassle-free. ~$80 a side is pretty steep. I won't see my Alfa until next weekend so I can't check feasibility yet.