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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having removed the rear side windows of my Sprint GT in order to repair the closing/locking hinges, and noticing that most of the little rubber hinges that ought to be attached to the B-post have perished or simply disappeared - and having read in other posts what a p.i.t.a. it is to replace them - I have decided to go the whole hog and replace all the door frame and side window rubbers, which were looking a little tired. But never having even looked into this before, I think I'm going to need a little advice! I've got a few questions ....

1. As I understand it, the rubber B-post-to-side window hinges are located by little metal clasps that screw into the metal of the pillar. Is there a source for these?

2. I've recently seen an eBay auction for some "alloy channels" sold as a set of ten pieces, that are apparently found underneath the door aperture rubbers. In the experience of the group, would these be a wise purchase?

3. Is there a definitive answer to the question of who produces the best fitting door and window rubbers, in the correct softness of rubber? I did see Raoul Flamigni's products at Imola last September (which seemed very good, but have there been doubts as to the fit??), Cicognani's rubbers seemed a little firm ... Re-Originals seems to be highly praised too, but are there any other sources out there?

4. Finally, how are the polished door sill plates/kick plates fastened to the sills? I removed all visible screws but they wouldn't lift out, and I'm wary of forcing them. What are the odds that someone has smeared bondo or silicone under there to keep water out??

Any advice would be great .......
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP
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Ahh, yes. The infamous side window hinges. Actually, IMO, they're not at all difficult to replace. Approx. an hour per side. To your questions;
1) I've not yet had to replace these. Simply remove what's left of the old hinge and reuse it.
2) only if the current channels are rotted out to the point that they will not longer hold the door gasket.
3) I've had good experience with the Re-Original hinges. No experience with other suppliers but I think that this is one of those parts that isn't critical as far as firmness is concerned.
4) in addition to the visable screws, the sill plates have 'hidden' attaching screws underneath the door gasket requiring the gaskets removal to access them.

Here's a short pictorial on hinge replacement.
Pic 1 - gently pry away the door gasket on the B pillar
Pic 2 - remove three door gasket channel screws and remove the channel. This will reveal the three hinge block screws. Remove these screws to get the clips out. Take note of the location of the screw hole in the clips. The clips need to be installed in they're original location.
Pic 3 - what your old hinge blocks probably look like
Pic 4 - old and new hinges
Slide the new hinges into the window channel. I use an electrical wire pulling lubricant to ease installation. Then slide the clips onto the new hinges.
Pic 5 - ready for installation
Gently install the window into the B pillar and install the three clip screws. Install the door gasket channel using new clay sealant strips if necessary.
Pic 6 - gently install the door gasket into the channel being careful not to 'stretch' the gasket. If the gasket now appears to be too long, DON'T cut it - it's been stretched. Simply remove it and install again.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jim,

Thanks very much for taking the time to explain the procedure in such detail, and I'm sure I'll find the whole procedure a lot more simple now! :)

I may have confused everyone with the use of the word "rubber", however! Over on this side of The Pond, this can also be taken to mean the long sealing gasket that runs around the inside of the door aperture, as well as the rear side window aperture, all of which are visible in your photos. The little rubber hinges are moulded in such a way that firmness is not critical at all, but I am concerned that the door/window gaskets are the correct fit and of the proper softness.

So if you or anyone else has experience of Re-Originals or any of the European suppliers, please let all of us know!

Enjoy the rest of the Easter weekend.
 

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What are the chances that while you guys were posting this exchange I was spending part of the Easter holiday fixing some annoying problems only to have my driver's side window fall out !?!? (Fortunately into my hands). Timing! Now I've got something to do next weekend (although trim and I get along like cats and dogs).
 

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Alex said:
I may have confused everyone with the use of the word "rubber", ....
I'm no more confused than usual! :rolleyes: Besides, it offered me opportunity to finally post the side window hinge pics I took last summer. :)
Automotive nomenclature can be, at times, challenging in that one word can describe many different parts (rubber), and one part can be called many different names. The door aperature rubber, for example, could also be called a gasket, seal or weatherstripping. Then there's the upright/steering knuckle, boot/trunk, wing/fender.....
 

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A wake up call for all of us with old rubber window hinges that are nearing failure.

Ahh, yes. The infamous side window hinges. Actually, IMO, they're not at all difficult to replace. Approx. an hour per side. To your questions;
1) I've not yet had to replace these. Simply remove what's left of the old hinge and reuse it.
2) only if the current channels are rotted out to the point that they will not longer hold the door gasket.
3) I've had good experience with the Re-Original hinges. No experience with other suppliers but I think that this is one of those parts that isn't critical as far as firmness is concerned.
4) in addition to the visable screws, the sill plates have 'hidden' attaching screws underneath the door gasket requiring the gaskets removal to access them.

Here's a short pictorial on hinge replacement.
Pic 1 - gently pry away the door gasket on the B pillar
Pic 2 - remove three door gasket channel screws and remove the channel. This will reveal the three hinge block screws. Remove these screws to get the clips out. Take note of the location of the screw hole in the clips. The clips need to be installed in they're original location.
Pic 3 - what your old hinge blocks probably look like
Pic 4 - old and new hinges
Slide the new hinges into the window channel. I use an electrical wire pulling lubricant to ease installation. Then slide the clips onto the new hinges.
Pic 5 - ready for installation
Gently install the window into the B pillar and install the three clip screws. Install the door gasket channel using new clay sealant strips if necessary.
Pic 6 - gently install the door gasket into the channel being careful not to 'stretch' the gasket. If the gasket now appears to be too long, DON'T cut it - it's been stretched. Simply remove it and install again.
Good luck!
Papajam...thanks for this very complete "how to". As luck would have it I was walking towards the car and I noticed that the drivers side rear window of my '74 GTV was hanging in the wind. Strange...as I got closer I saw that the rolled pin that holds the hinge together was missing. The lucky part was that as soon as I touched the top of the window it fell out of the opening and I was just able to catch it before it hit the ground. A close call. All three of the rubber hinges had broken.

I got lucky. I ordered hinges for both windows and put them in last weekend. All three were broken on each of the windows. There was another post in the past few weeks where someone else had the hinges break on another '74 and had the window fall out in his hands if my memory serves me correctly.

The hinges went in as Papajam says they will and took about an hour each. The only thing that I would add to the process is that I used some rubber lubricant from Napa to help the old rubber bits slide out of the window channel and the new ones to slide into the channels easier.

The moral of the story is replace those hinges right now before you lose a window.

As a PS I replaced the failed rolled pin in the hinge with a small, metric allen head bolt and a lock nut.

Thanks again Papajam.
 

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Ha I just tripped across this thread while researching how to repair rear window sills...I thought that rear window came out kind of easy like! I had to dig down in a bunch of silicone put in there by the PO to even find these little hinges!
 

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Another amazing alfabb coincidence! I've needed to fix the side windows on my GTV forever and with the extended winter I've run out of small garage projects (at least on this car). I'm starting tomorrow.
Jim-thanks for the information. Gene-thanks for digging this up and saving me from a rudderless weekend!
 

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Does anyone have a photo of the screws which go through the front of the B pillar frame and then into the metal clips which attach to the rubber hinges?

I've purchased new metal clips and new rubber hinges, but I don't have the original B pillar screws.

Looking at the new metal clips... the hole in the clip is not threaded, and the metal is probably too thin to be threaded. So, I'm guessing that the original B pillar screws would have been a self tapping with a smallish diameter and length shaft, but with a reasonably large counter sink Philips head?

Measurements and/or a photo of the screws would be great so that I can look for a match at my local nuts & bolts shop.
 

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Exactly right! Not self tapping though, just a flathead Phillips sheet metal screw. Looking a pic and/or dimensions...
 

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The only pic I found shows just the heads of the screws. If they are the same screws, and I think they are, as the door gasket channel screws, they are 2.9 x 9.5mm (although that seems a bit on the long side).
 

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I'm slowing getting my project car back together. I didn't take it apart so I don't have anything to reference. I think I figured out the lip of the seals go under the stainless trim at the bottom of the window and the back 1/2 of the rain gutter trim. I've also figured out the window hinges and that seal. What I'm stuck on is the seal length. Should it only seal 3 sides (orange lines in 1st pic) or all 4 (red line)? I don't see how the seal could co-exist w/ the window hinges and that seal. I found another post - without pictures - that mentions this seal is too long but not specific about the details. Do I cut the seal short at the corners (circled w/ arrow in 2nd pic)? If so....should the seal tuck into the channel or not?

Found the post talking about the new rubber trim being too long - link HERE.
On a related topic - how does the stainless trim on the interior of the car attach? Mine has no screw holes and there wasn't any evidence of adhesive. The trim for the boxed area in the 2nd pic is what I'm talking about.

Thanks!

EDIT: Found the post HERE talking about the new rubber being too long.
 

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Can someone please post a picture/blow up of the whole quarter window assembly. I took the thing apart over 20 years ago and can't figure out how to put it back together. TIA, dlb
The rear quarter window seal is held in place by two pieces of SS trim: the roof rain gutter trim (which runs from the bottom of the A Pillar to the bottom of the C Pillar, and the horizontal trim at the top of the rear fender window opening. Search "GTV Rear Quarter Trim" and you will find a couple threads about installing this seal. Once the exterior quarter window trim is attached, install the quarter glass with the B Pillar trim and its seal. Once the B Pillar trim and window are installed, the B Pillar door gasket trim piece can be installed (which covers the front side of the B Pillar rear quarter window trim).
 

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Hi BostonBertone,

Thanks very much for the photo... that will be a great help in locating suitable replacement screws for my window hinges. Would you happen to have a measurement for the thread diameter and overall length of the screw... preferably in millimetres?

Regards,


Nick
 

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Found my calipers and here they are in mm:

length overall: 9.85
shaft length: 7.5
thread diam: 3.36
head diam 6.68

I have every confidence they are original and came from a 68' GTV 1750 though I imagine these didn't change from model to model. I found some oval head SS screws at my local hardware that were same in every dimension except for the slight bulge of the oval head and coming to a point making them 2 mm longer. I'll file the points a bit to get it close.
 
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