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Discussion Starter #141
GTV6 is going in the workshop for a bit of work. Then I'll get back to this. While not related to the cam belt change, I did find that the aftermarket wheels I purchased for the car don't work with the stock wheel bolts. The bolts are too long. I ordered some shorter ones and should get them next week.

The GTV6 work will be completed this weekend (or not, we'll see how it goes) and then we'll be back to this. I did purchase the proper timesert kit to repair the bolt hole threads and it's just waiting for me to get off my duff and get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
It didn't go well, GTV6 still on the lift.
 

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I dunno. Maybe just lucky. Not having tools, I was setting the tension/gap by touch and look but then I made a small tool that I would fit into the bearing holes and the other end, when tensioned down, lined up with one of the water pump guard holes. Left the perfect gap. I have to dig it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
I'd like to see that!!
 

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Discussion Starter #145
I'm sort of mad at myself because I thought I knew what was wrong with the GTV6 so it would be a quick bit of work to get it back on the road, instead of completing this work. I was wrong! I doubt that I've got more than a couple of days work, max, to get this running. I made the wrong choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Time to insert the Time-Sert:

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There not cheap. But worth every penny.
 

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I'd like to see that!!
Here you go. Kinda crude but effective. History: I was setting gap by adding tension to the pulley in the usual non-special tool method (using everything available and both hands plus a knee). I made up this small tool as a lever and would add tension by using a bar on the right side for leverage, tightening up the nut when spacing was correct, turning, turning, measuring, etc. I noticed that the position of the right part of the arm lined up with one of the bolt mounts for the water housing frame so I drilled another hole, lined it up and things stayed as they should. So, positioned, added bolt to keep in place, turned, turned, measured and it all stayed put. If that's the objective, great. If not, I had better call myself lucky and make a new tool. I have a short clip somewhere of me putting the lock pin in and out at idle... I will try to find it.
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Discussion Starter #149
The sweet view of success:

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Just took a few gin and Arnold Palmer's to limber up the arthritis and calm the back pain! LOL
I dropped the belt in from the top, biggest pains were 1. getting the belt over the rear exhaust cam pulley (had to use a long handled poker to gently loop it between around the front of the pulley and the inner fender well), 2. Pull the slack so that I could get the tensioner idler on. Just took a few jogs around the belt perimeter, pulling everything tight.

Be aware, if this is your first time, that the idlers are handed. Make sure you have the correct surfaces mated together.

Couldn't find my 8mm socket head socket, so I'll get one at the McParts store and torque things (carefully!) up before pulling the cam locks, replacing the caps and doing a final belt tensioning.

I told myself at the inception of this work that I wasn't going to let it fester, I'd get it done right away....7 months later :(
 

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Bob:
Holy cow! What a pain in the drain that car turned out to be. You make me glad I bought another 12V-engined Alfa 164S instead of buying a later 24V-engined model. :eek::eek:
Mike D.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Bob:
Holy cow! What a pain in the drain that car turned out to be. You make me glad I bought another 12V-engined Alfa 164S instead of buying a later 24V-engined model. :eek::eek:
Mike D.
LOL, Frequently during this process I remembered your admonition that I should stick with the 12v. But, MAN, this thing is sweet when it's working.
 

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Discussion Starter #153

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Sounds like an old game show.

But Wait, Theres More.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
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That looks like a 25 hp gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #157

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Discussion Starter #158
My get up and go never showed up this weekend.

Made a Beef Wellington and gravy for my son’s 30th today. One of us is getting old.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Now Jim, how many horsepower do I gain for Cerakoting the aluminum parts? This car is going to haul by the time I'm done (back to mechanical stuff after this bit of fluff).

Cerakote MC-5100 aluminum clear. Suppose to be non-yellowing. Nasty stuff, you need to wear your PPE when applying with the spray gun. First whiff off the gun (yeah, I wasn't wearing any) sent me running for my mask.

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Now Jim, how many horsepower do I gain for Cerakoting the aluminum parts? This car is going to haul by the time I'm done (back to mechanical stuff after this bit of fluff).

Cerakote MC-5100 aluminum clear. Suppose to be non-yellowing. Nasty stuff, you need to wear your PPE when applying with the spray gun. First whiff off the gun (yeah, I wasn't wearing any) sent me running for my mask.

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I would say at least 40 to 45 hp each. They do look slick.
 
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