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Discussion Starter #121
Ok, taking two weeks off. Guess what is top priority (other than the various festivities)...?

Yep, this car. I have to get it running just so I can work on two other cars. LOL This will be a successful vacation if the '74 GTV is on the lift on 1/5/2020.

Stay tuned.
 

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Get it going. It deserves to be driven with alacrity ,ie, speed and eagerness. I suspect you do understand that, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Get it going. It deserves to be driven with alacrity ,ie, speed and eagerness. I suspect you do understand that, lol.
Alacrity should be my middle name.
 

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Lol, in any language...
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Good lord, 8 days in, one hour spent on the car.

There is always tomorrow, until there isn't.
 

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Think I've finally succeeded in getting my tension set after many iterations, initially i was over-tensioning and I quickly lost the gap when the weight came off and I turned the engine. Can someone who has the tool provide the measurement in green and the weight of the counterweight? That would be very helpful, thank you.
1608634
 

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57.5 mm, yet leverage is not applied from the center and it is adjustible. The weight is 4lbs 11.4 oz. (2.138 Kg).

20191230_123228.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #129

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Thanks Ken. So I had the weight right, but the lever distance wrong.
The 24v supplement does say 224mm from centre of bearing to the weight.but that is obviously too much torque. It is difficult to avoid adding belt tension when torquing the nut to 75Nm, but important not to.
57.5 mm, yet leverage is not applied from the center and it is adjustible. The weight is 4lbs 11.4 oz. (2.138 Kg).

View attachment 1608695
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Cleaned the threads in the block, cleaned the bolt, set the torque wrench...

Didn’t check the calibration of the torque wrench...

Currently seeking a 13/32 stubby drill bit in order to install the helicoil.


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The kit I used in the past came with the correct taps for installing helicoils of various sizes. Used them for the sparkplug holes in the original Sprint GT, and the serp tensioner idler bolt holes for the 164S, the PO having striped the pivot one, so did both. I hate it when the designers have bolts threading into aluminum, instead of using stationary studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Both my Boeing engineer brother-in-law and my pro mechanic buddy are unhappy with my choice of helicoil, and are urging me to use a keensert instead. Given the mission critical nature of the part, I may heed their advice.

My mechanic buddy noticed that there were a number of undamaged threads at the bottom of the hole, so we're going to see if we can use a longer bolt and torque the bolt to 30, with blue loctite as a binder. So I've cleaned both the bolt and threads and am letting them dry. We'll see if that avenue gets the job done. I was really hoping to get to the smog shop on Friday. If it doesn't work, I'll obtain the keensert and go in that direction. But, it will put the finish line past my target...

Like that's never happened before.
 

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Both my Boeing engineer brother-in-law and my pro mechanic buddy are unhappy with my choice of helicoil, and are urging me to use a keensert instead. Given the mission critical nature of the part, I may heed their advice.
Add me to the list of people unhappy with your choice of helicoil. When I found out about Time-Serts, I threw my collection of helicoils into the garbage.

Bye
 

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I've never had a problem with helicoils in the years I've used them. Seem to be durable. One drawback, to my mind, is that the timesert "bushing with threads" does require a bigger hole, and that might reduce the amount of structural material around the fastener hole if the part has small material clearances or edge margins. Could this lead to cracking in the material surrounding the bolt, such as too high lateral lug/hoop stress? Just a thought.

I'm sure they all work sufficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
I think I’ll install a stud.


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A stud will make it more difficult to get the belt placed/ tensioner placed. The 30 ft/lbs is not a ton, helicoil is fine for that application.
 

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I've never had a problem with helicoils in the years I've used them. Seem to be durable. One drawback, to my mind, is that the timesert "bushing with threads" does require a bigger hole, and that might reduce the amount of structural material around the fastener hole if the part has small material clearances or edge margins. Could this lead to cracking in the material surrounding the bolt, such as too high lateral lug/hoop stress? Just a thought.

I'm sure they all work sufficiently.
The hole for a Time Sert is not much bigger then the hole you have to drill for the helicoil.

The nice thing about time serts is you can buy the drill guide they make for the size time sert you are using. This lets you drill the hole straight.
 

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I've never drilled out the hole when repairing the threads a little larger to install the correct helicoil. Just used their special tap. It's how I repaired the sparkplug holes in the Sprint GT, with the head still on (you grease the tap to catch the cuttings). Worked fine for the next 150k miles more I put on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Moving over to the GTV6 while I wait for supplies.


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