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Zero time out pump, belt, tensioner, seals, pulley bearings, hoses and whatever on front of engine when you get a new to you but 25-30 year old 164. Your pictures looked like some oil leakage.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
It has plenty of maintenance records. Time to go through them and look.
 

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Agree with Steve. That cambet looks scarily aged. I wouldn't even turn mine over on the starter if it ever looked that bad.

The water pump on mine is the original, with 150,000 miles on the clock and have been running the serpentine belt at low tension to preserve the bearings, which feel not ideal. Have had a new water pump sitting in abox for several years and, while 164 pumps have metal impellers, if the bearings seize it will be very not good. My cambelt and tensioner/idlers were changed last year, as the belt was a few years old and belt ping is that worst thing that can happen, but plan was always to change the pump no later than now. Which am still putting off but know can't for ever. My big fear is snapping the bolts that hold the water pump in place, as have a real dislike of drilling out sheered bolts. Although have never sheered a bolt on this 164 myself, can see a mechanic did in the past as a couple of the small bolts holding the cambelt cover were sheered - when the car had done 100,000 miles less.

Am also going to change the spark plugs, almost 55 miles on them, and have a full gasket set so have the o-ring seal and cam cover gaskets to hand. Planning to go for NGK BKR6EIX (6418) iridium plugs, as priced about the same as platinum equivalents so why not go for the more resiliant kind? Anyone tried them?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Am also going to change the spark plugs, almost 55 miles on them, and have a full gasket set so have the o-ring seal and cam cover gaskets to hand. Planning to go for NGK BKR6EIX (6418) iridium plugs, as priced about the same as platinum equivalents so why not go for the more resilient kind? Anyone tried them?
I was wondering about the proper plug to use, as the plug cited in the manual are $15 a piece. :surprise:

Installed were Denso plugs. I was a bit surprised, but it ran like a champ until the belt issue cam up.

I still need to use the borescope and check for any intimacy between the piston and the valves.
 

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I was wondering about the proper plug to use, as the plug cited in the manual are $15 a piece. :surprise:

Installed were Denso plugs. I was a bit surprised, but it ran like a champ until the belt issue cam up.

I still need to use the borescope and check for any intimacy between the piston and the valves.
A compression check is cheaper and will let you know if there is any valve leak - something a visual may not.

For a 24v 164 the standard plugs are platinum, with a lifespan of 60,000 miles. The iridium ones am intending have a lifespan closer to 90,000 miles - probably longer than needed before an engine rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #46

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Yeah. But do you really want to go through the timing belt R&R a couple of thousand miles later for a leaky water pump.
HorseWidower said that as it is a daily driver he will be doing the belt change every 18 months ... so IMO unless it is leaking or feels ugly, leave it in there for another 18 months.

BTW: Can these original pumps be reconditioned? I ask this because surely the only place that makes these pumps for discontinued engines is now a Chinese company, who have been asked to make them as cheaply as possible, and cast whatever company logo is required on them. RichardBradford got 150,000 miles on his original pump ... double the replacements will go anywhere near that. So I'm hoping when I do my 156v6's cambelt, looking like next year, I'd like to replace the bearings and seals (?) on my current pump and reinstall with a new gasket and keep going.
Pete
 

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Purchased some Tesa and Coroplast tape as well as some Thermo-tec sleeving in order to rewrap and heat protect the injector and coil wiring. Should be interesting. I'd rather not replace connectors, if possible, but they will all be cleaned and greased.
 

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Funny that we have been talking about replacing water pumps here lately ...


... my Toyota Vitz must have heard as it's water pump bearing has cried enough. Luckily it doesn't have a timing belt as I'd have to replace that while "in there" 😉
Pete
 

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Purchased some more parts from Jason. Probably will get this back together in two weeks. I'll pull the wiring harness for the injectors and coils and start working on re-wrapping it. And, survey the rest of the engine wiring for any other work that needs doing.
 

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"I was wondering about the proper plug to use, as the plug cited in the manual are $15 a piece."

The appropriate NGK Iridium plugs, BKR6EIX, for the 24V engine, and the earlier V6 if you choose, seem to cost about $7+ ea on eBay. About the same now in auto parts stores, IIRC. Maybe slightly less on Amazon.

I find they work very well.
 

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"I was wondering about the proper plug to use, as the plug cited in the manual are $15 a piece."

The appropriate NGK Iridium plugs, BKR6EIX, for the 24V engine, and the earlier V6 if you choose, seem to cost about $7+ ea on eBay. About the same now in auto parts stores, IIRC. Maybe slightly less on Amazon.

I find they work very well.
Thats cheap.

Back in the day. The original NGK's that were used were around 25.00 a piece.
 

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The Japanese were using Iridium tip plugs at $15 each back in the 90's as they could go 60,000 between changes. That was kind of unheard of at that time. Spark plugs were only $2-$3 each so changing them at 25,000 was not a big deal for service. I have Iridium plugs in my Q, spider and Acura RL with never an issue. My source is usually Amazon for when I need them.
 

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Those of us with the LS/Q 24V engine use plugs which will last the longest, the Iridiums, as accessing the rear plugs, those under the air plenum, are a pain to get to as compared to the same ones in the 12V engine, which are an absolute piece of cake, nothing to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Started R&R on the engine electrical harness. As described in another thread, it's been like going to a crab feed, you have to get through the crunchy bits to get to what you want. All of the boots to the coil and injector connectors are not only perished, but also cutting into the wire insulation. **** near every coil connector has the insulation on at least one wire breached. I also found one injector wire that is clearly on the way to failure. I've been looking around the net to find replacement parts, the injector connectors, pins, and boots were relatively easy to find, the coils have taken a bit more of a search. Finally think I've found them at a couple of motorsports wiring sites. We'll see if they are actually there once I order them.

Everything is so crunchy that I abandoned my careful slicing of the protective coverings and just crushed it (gently of course) with pliers. Comes apart easily.

Anyhow, pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the big round connector?
 

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Amazing. All that stuff in my LS is pretty new looking, so far. Of course, I do spray everything in the bays of our Alfas with Armorall every couple of years, and I think that helps. The corrugated intake hose in my 91S, and the LS as well, is still the original. Still, I think that your LS much have lived in a very hot place, such as Phoenix or Las Vegas, whereas our LS has lived all it's life in the Seattle area. Those SW temps would cook everything rubber or plastic.

I doubt you needed any new coils. Would have waited on that purchase until after you get the car running otherwise, just to see if one or more are acting up, esp since the car ran well until...
 

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Never mind they were for the 12 valves.
 

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