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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1991 164L left 6mos ago on battery tender. Does not crand. Left on charger that topped up to green. No luck. Fairly old Advance battery. Dug the receipt out which appears to have been done in disappearing ink. Took the battery in-they tested it and it failed -so bought one and brought it home. Still no crank. Checked 40amp under the hood-intact. #20 under the dash fuse intact. Box by right front 0ne 10amp
 

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Any electrics working?

Did you thoroughly clean the insides of the battery cable terminals when you installed the new battery? Cleaned the terminals of the new battery?
 

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What works with key on, lights, horn blower motor, turn signals, etc.?
Is/are the battery ground cable bolted end in trunk to rear of battery and engine ground cable bolted end near air cleaner box rear corner by coolant bottle free of corrosion and clean?
Check other end of engine/transmission grounding cable end on transmission (bolt on 5th gear cover or on back of A/T near differential).
What kind of test equipment do you have, test light, multimeter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could be many things, from starter to a bad earth and everything in between. What kind of response/noise are you getting when turn the key? Any dimming of the instrument lights or click from the starter solenoid?
Thanks Richard, nothing happens-no clicks like with a low battery. I dont hear any relay noise. When I posted this the alfabb listed past question of a similar nature with Afisto Steves suggestion to check grounds for engine/tranny and starter whic I did and look ok. Also after all the self test lights go out what is left is a check engine light and the red battery light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What works with key on, lights, horn blower motor, turn signals, etc.?
Is/are the battery ground cable bolted end in trunk to rear of battery and engine ground cable bolted end near air cleaner box rear corner by coolant bottle free of corrosion and clean?
Check other end of engine/transmission grounding cable end on transmission (bolt on 5th gear cover or on back of A/T near differential).
What kind of test equipment do you have, test light, multimeter?
Steve. I have a multimeter. When I disconnect the battery grounding point there is a clunk from the front of the car. Lights and horn work. Have not found the connection fro the A/T on the tranny- looked above and below, but have found the grounding point.
 

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Does your alarm FOB work? If so, be sure it is de-armed.
Open fuse panel door under steering column and turn on key and listen for starter relay click in and above area to right of ignition switch. It is a red/stripe relay same as one out front for engine ECU near radiator. If no click, try swapping those two relays and try again.
 

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Is there a battery in the alarm system? I had thought the alarm goes off if the main service battery is taken out of circuit. This can be bypassed by turning the alarm unit off with the supplied tiny key and leaving it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does your alarm FOB work? If so, be sure it is de-armed.
Open fuse panel door under steering column and turn on key and listen for starter relay click in and above area to right of ignition switch. It is a red/stripe relay same as one out front for engine ECU near radiator. If no click, try swapping those two relays and try again.
Steve, have not used the alarm for some time as the plastic devices disintergrates. When I use the key on the alarm I realized the clunk I heard was probably the doors locking. I switched the red stripe relays-under the dash has a separate fuse-in engine bay intergrated 10amp. Still not cranking. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is there a battery in the alarm system? I had thought the alarm goes off if the main service battery is taken out of circuit. This can be bypassed by turning the alarm unit off with the supplied tiny key and leaving it off.
I have had it off for sometime. Although when I just turned it on it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does your alarm FOB work? If so, be sure it is de-armed.
Open fuse panel door under steering column and turn on key and listen for starter relay click in and above area to right of ignition switch. It is a red/stripe relay same as one out front for engine ECU near radiator. If no click, try swapping those two relays and try again.
Steve, it did click but I exchanged anyway just in case. Havent found ground strap connection on A/T.
 

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Does anyone remember the under bonnet relay that stops series 2 24v cars from starting? My Alfa friend sorted it by taking one of the grey ones from main relay/fuse box (probably a window relay). Can't remember if it was totally dead or just wouldn't fire - was 15 years ago - and happened during the 8 hours the car was parked after driving to work. No prior warning. Wondering if a similar thing could happen to series 1 cars.
Bob, if your dash lights normal and no clunk of starter solenoid, maybe the solenoid feed is faulty. If parked up for 6 months could even be something as simple as corrosion on the solenoid connector. Not easy to get to but a wiggle of the connector might get it going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Try applying 12v directly to G151 pin 1 starter solenoid energizing wire. Disconnect Big G151connector behind false firewall and check pin1 and socket for corrosion.

(1) Alfa 164 Connector G151 starter pin 1 | Alfa Romeo Forums (alfabb.com)
Thanks Steve and others. Under the plastic looking for the connector. Garaged car I have owned since new but awhile since I was there. Removed leaves and pine needles giggled the A/T selector level and it started. Lucky day. Thanks for the help.
 
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