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Discussion Starter #1
A search doesn't seem to quite answer this one.

Following a ~ 20 sec crank (to circulate oil after being down for a year - no plugs for easier engine spin) I could not get it turn over again on the second try. This time, no "click" sound at all. The oil press warning light goes very dim and a few wisps of smoke rose from the starter area.
After cooling off, it seemed fine I got it started OK.

Battery is new and all conections were cleaned including starter. I figure its not long before it strands me.

Is this the solenoid, or starter itself ?

Cheers.

Jeff
 

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1966-2013
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Smoke would likely indicate the starter itself, or a loose connection cooking away.
Inspect the wire insulation and connections carefully around there as it can really suck when, say, the +ive cable with roached insulation gets up against the chassis or something, and the smoke coulda been produced form said insulation being burnt off.

Any idea of the condition of the motor brushes in there?
They can occasionally act that way when they're on thier way out, (no crank, no click), 'cept after a couple times doing that, they cease to function entirely.
 

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Yup....Dar got it right with the smell of burnt rubber insulation/smoke. Happened to me on nother 87 car. Starter did give warnings though, I was stupid not to pay attention, though.......fortunately, it was in my driveway......LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guys.
I have no idea of the condition of the brushes, but I've not had the starter out since I've owned the car (~ 8 yrs.) and it looks pretty old. maybe original ?
I'm thinking after hearing what you guys are saying that I just need to bite the bullet and pull the whole thing and have it tested and rebuilt as needed. Looks like buying one is out since neither Centerline nor IAR stock starters for the '69 (IAP has the solenoid).
I've read the stories about what a PITA this thing is to get to for removal/replacement.

Cheers
Jeff
 

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1966-2013
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Nah, they are easy to get out and in.
Work from the top and front, have some long extensions handy to reach from the dizzy area to the motor for those fixtures you can't get your hands in there for, and bring it out topside at the firewall.

Don't lose track of the shim between motor and bell housing, or it won't matter how good the starter is working.

Good plan on rebuilding if you take that route.
Ideally you'll find a local Bosch authorized and certified rebuild shop (they have a sign, placard and even a diploma if they're real) as they'll have the best chance of getting all the right pieces together.
Spook around tractor repair places on the outskirts of town. They seem to be the more likely ones who have certification instead of the local parts counter as they do mucho work on starters, alternators, generators, etc. for the heavy impliment folk.

If it does end up going to the shop for repop, have them take a good hard look at the commutator(?) where the brushes ride as sometimes that'll need skim cutting to knock off any sharp edges that have built up over the years and can tear up new brushes. New bushes in the nose cone and end cap wouldn't hurt either.
Basically, if you're gonna do it, go whole hog instead of fixing only what's broke and leaving the rest to faith.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK...thanks - I'll go for it, probably this weekend..

Jeff
 

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when removing the starter, be sure to disconnect the battery first. also, have them check and replace the bushings if necessary, if worn, the starter can pull much more current than usual.
cliff
 
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