Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've done a search and found lots of info on putting a 2000 engine in a mechanical clutch 105 car, but what about a into a 1750? Does the 1750 transmission bolt right up or do I have to use a 2000 transmission?
Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,617 Posts
Shouldn't be a problem. You'll probably need to use the starter from the 2L though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
No Problem

I ran 1750 and 2000 cc GTV's in the 1980's and swapped engines without any problems. I have one left with 2.000 cc engine and a box from a 1750
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,127 Posts
Shouldn't be a problem. You'll probably need to use the starter from the 2L though.
AND the bellhousing. In general, the flywheel, ringgear, bellhousing, and starter should all be off the same model car (note that 2L came with both 130 and 131 tooth ring gears - can't intermix starters between those two).

So I would answer GTV4EVR's question as: "Yes, you can bolt a 1750 transmission to an early 2L bellhousing - the style of bellhousing that has the reverse light switch behind the clutch plate".

If you don't have an early 2L bellhousing them I am unsure whether the 1750 part can be used. The 1750 has a 110 tooth ring gear, so I'm not sure whether a 1750 bellhousing would position the starter at the right point to work with the 130 or 131 tooth ring gear on a 2L.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,509 Posts
I had a 1750 gearbox and bellhousing on my 79 Spider for many years. I used a starter that matched the ring gear on my flywheel. They worked fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,043 Posts
Hi Ken, not sure what you are up to but as Jay mentioned there may be a different Reverse switch position in that the 2000 may be on the trans tower rather than rear wall of Bell house so you might have some wiring if this is a street application.

The shift rods on the 1750 and early 2000 will move back anf forth through a hole in the bellouse. So you will have to use a 1750/early 2000 bellhouse or cut off the rods which I think repeat think I have seen done. The later 2000 bellhouse does not have the hole for the rods so as an alternate it could be milled open.

I am pretty sure that the 1750 /2000 bellhousings are otherwise the same dimensionally so a 2000 starter motor will be needed and fit a 2000 flywheel/ ring gear. Tooth count is the issue.

FWIW

Ken
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,127 Posts
The shift rods on the 1750 will move back anf forth through a hole in the 1750 bellouse. So you will have to use a 1750 bellhouse or cut off the rods which I think repeat think I have seen done. The 2000 bellhouse does not have the hole for the rods so as an alternate it could be milled open.
Kengta:

Not true. The early 2 liters - I'm not exactly sure of the date range - perhaps those with the .7hp starters and 130 tooth ring gears - used the same bellhousing and transmission design as the 1750's: with shift rods that extended forward into the clutch area. What you are describing came with the later 2 liters: transmissions with the shorter shift rods and the reverse light switch at the shifter tower.

It sounds as if Ken Lee plans on using both a 1750 bellhousing AND a 1750 transmission, so he shouldn't run into this issue. From this thread I have also learned that the 1750 and 2L bellhousings are the same, so that's useful information too.

One other thought for Ken Lee: If you have a 2L with a 131 tooth ring gear and the 1.1hp starter, you will need to use the front brace between the starter and R motor mount. The mass of that 1.1hp starter will fracture your bellhousing if it isn't supported at the front.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,509 Posts
I think that the change in gearbox/bellhousing was in '73/74 and that some 2L cars had the earlier style gearbox. I have seen switches mounted on the shift tower but I thought that they were something other than the back-up lights - seatbelt warning or something like that. I have had cars with both styles and the wires for the backup light switch all went through a hole in the bellhousing. I have a spare early style bellhousing and gearbox from a Canadian 70 camtail. I just verified the routing of the wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,043 Posts
Kengta:

Not true. The early 2 liters - I'm not exactly sure of the date range - perhaps those with the .7hp starters and 130 tooth ring gears - used the same bellhousing and transmission design as the 1750's: with shift rods that extended forward into the clutch area. What you are describing came with the later 2 liters: transmissions with the shorter shift rods and the reverse light switch at the shifter tower.

It sounds as if Ken Lee plans on using both a 1750 bellhousing AND a 1750 transmission, so he shouldn't run into this issue. From this thread I have also learned that the 1750 and 2L bellhousings are the same, so that's useful information too.

One other thought for Ken Lee: If you have a 2L with a 131 tooth ring gear and the 1.1hp starter, you will need to use the front brace between the starter and R motor mount. The mass of that 1.1hp starter will fracture your bellhousing if it isn't supported at the front.
Jay, Thanks, I edited my post. The later 2000 trans here are far more commonly found.

Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ken, it's actually a friend's car, not mine. I was just checking before we started the engine swap. I wanted to check with this group that it was a straight forward as I thought - i.e. remove the 1750 engine, install the 2000. I hadn't thought about the starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,043 Posts
Ken, it's actually a friend's car, not mine. I was just checking before we started the engine swap. I wanted to check with this group that it was a straight forward as I thought - i.e. remove the 1750 engine, install the 2000. I hadn't thought about the starter.
Hey Ken, yes you will need a 2 litre starter or have the starter gear changed to the correct size and tooth count for 2 litre ring gear that you have. If you get the big dia. 2 litre type starter then the motor tail support bracket is also recommended but I think to use it there is a different right side motor mount or a mod required.

Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
get a later gear reduction starter from a late spider... i forget what years or tooth. 130 or 131 ring gear.
As I mentioned earlier, it's not my car, I'm just helping, but thanks for the advice. We'll have to see what starters we have and which flywheel is on the engine. On my white GTV, I used the billet starter I got from Performatek
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,127 Posts
If you get the big dia. 2 litre type starter then the motor tail support bracket is also recommended but I think to use it there is a different right side motor mount or a mod required.
Ken:

I'm sorry to keep disagreeing with you, but no,the same old R side motormount works with the starter brace. The brace mounts to that hole in the mount originally designed to attach the carburetor-airfilter support. The photo above that GTV4EVR posted shows this detail - of course, in that case the hole is just used for its orginal function, the carb support, since the Performatek starter doesn't need a brace.

The starter brace consists of an oval-shaped piece of heavy gauge steel that picks up the two long bolts that hold the starter together. It has four holes: the two for the long bolts, one for the motor mount, and a clearance hole for the protrusion at the front/center of the starter. A spacer approx 1/2" - 3/4" long goes between the brace and the back of the motor mount, and an 8mm (or is it 10mm?) bolt holds the whole mess together. You could make one in a pinch.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top