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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not sure if I'm in the right section. My differential started to whine after I changed the oil with the recommended Shell Spirax gear oil I ordered from IAP. It was filled correctly and does not need oil. It did not whine under acceleration like it does now before the oil change. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 

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Do you know what kind of oil was there before?
Maybe it was a thicker oil?
Usually that kind of whine is due to the ring/pinion spacing/wear.
Since it started right after the oil change, I would start with the oil type.
Saar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip, yeah that's what I have been reading about wear. What is the thickest oil I could use without hurting it more?
 

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A lot depends on where (climatic considerations). Where are you located?
You may need to get advice on a heavy duty gear oil from a local farm or truck service center.
Whine due to the use of correct Shell Spirax gear oil is an unlikely culprit in my mind.
TTFN Elio
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I live in nothern CA. If I cant sell it it will only be driven when its about 70-90 degrees. I'm not sure what was in it before, the guy I bought it from died. All I know is it started to whine just after the oil change.
 

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These are not the quietest diffs, but if you're complaining about it it might be a problem. Even if noisy, as long as they have oil in them they'll run a long time.
You been in another similar car to compare?
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have had a 72 Berlina and currently own a 67 Super. I know they are kinda noisy but this one was pretty quiet before the oil change. I'm going to try some Red Line 80/140W next. Thanks for all the info. What is a reasonable price to have the differential rebuilt or should I take a chance and buy a used one. Maybe from the used Alfa parts place in Hayward CA, has anyone here used them? Also what about the Barber Shop in Sacramento? Has anyone here had any experience with them?
 

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A used, unknown diff is a crap shoot. If you trust the seller and he/she actually had it in use and can say it was good, that's best, or in a car you can test before buying.
Rebuilding diffs is time-consuming and expensive, especially if you want the LS feature shimmed to work, which it won't be as removed. I'd figure on at least $500 in CA, and it still can be a crap shoot on how quiet the gears will be in mesh.
APE is great, but the same caveat applies; they don't always know how each diff was used. In general, a late-model low mileage diff can be expected to run well, but you never know. And all the late ones (Bosch Spiders) are 4.10. APE in my experience stands behind what they sell.
Barber Shop has a very mixed reputation. Alex there is good. I wouldn't go there myself.
Andrew
 

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Richard Jemison - Alfar7 rebuilt an LSD unit for me and I know that he can do a rebuild for you but he is in Florida. You should examine the teeth on the crown wheel and look for uneven wear. You may as well start over with a different axle if this is the case.

I had one that went bad on a GTV due to low oil. It got steadily noiser over about 10k miles until I could no longer deal with it and I put in a used axle which turned out to be fine. You are at a bit of a dissadvantage in that you need a 4.56 axle and they were phased out around 1980 so the used ones are old. All the newer ones are 4.1's
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks so much for all the input. This is a wonderful bb. I forgot about it because I was doing the 2002 tii thing for awhile.
 

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APE is in Tracy and Lodi now. Call Larry Sr in Lodi at 209 365-1383 or Larry Jr in Tracy at 925 200-1998.
Andrew
 
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