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Anti-sieze on the back side of the bolt head, or a tiny dab on the locking tab solves this issue. I use the silver version.
 

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Just bent? Flatten them. Stretched? Cut out new ones of sheet stock. You might try Dean Russell at Trail Auto in Michigan. He may have new or used. If that fails, send me an e-mail, I've other sources further from us. Did you ask Mike Besic?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks,

I don't have Mikes Contact number?....Skip is almost done with the metal work...

Todd
 

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Send one to Skip. Fugi (Bill), who works for Skip can make those. He made me some for a 1953 Mercury racing outboard motor, a KG7H.
Mike Besic's phone # is 630-469-5626. Tell him I sent you.
 

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Todd - why black oxide them, they live immersed in diff oil anyway.....

Tap them flat again, as long as the little tabs on the ends are not cracked/ split, they will be fine

Ciao
Greig
 

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Cracked won't hurt if the bolt head holds the plate. (Unless it's cracked in half!)
 

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Check that the little fold-up ends are not cracked at the fold - the ends can break off rather easily if cracked & having bits of steel floating around the innards of the oily bits is never a good idea.

Ciao
Greig
 

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Todd, I may have a set I don't need that came with a project Giulietta a few years ago. You can have them for mailing cost if they are the right part. I can post a picture later today.
Brad Baum
Escondido,Ca
 

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Why not leave out the lock tabs, and drill and safety wire the bolts? Used lock tabs can't have much locking power left in them, they are just soft iron.
 

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I safety wired those on my 1960 Spider Veloce race car years ago as they loosened twice in racing. They were pretty hard, resulting in several broken drill bits. In thise days I did not have the bolt drilling jig or todays drill bits made for drilling through hardened materials.
 

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I safety wired those on my 1960 Spider Veloce race car years ago as they loosened twice in racing. They were pretty hard, resulting in several broken drill bits. In thise days I did not have the bolt drilling jig or todays drill bits made for drilling through hardened materials.
Did they loosen after you safety wired them, or before?
 

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Never loosened after safety wire.
 

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I have never seen these offered for sale anywhere...

I made my set by tracing the outline on ordinary printer paper. I then cut them out and used spray adhesive to stick them to some sheet metal. I cut as close as I (safely) could with tin snips and then got them down to the final shape with grinders, sanding wheel, and tools like that. I recall being impressed with how fast the process was. The results are absolutely indistinguishable from the originals.

And no hacksaws were needed, Gordon!

Jon
 

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Easy to make Jon!
 
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