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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might be a fruitless quest but I am in the middle of redoing my wire harness and cleaning all dash instruments and would like to clean up the inside of the guages. The issue is many of them have dust and some type of fog-like film on the inside of the glass - see pics. the smaller guages (fuel etc) even has the paint peeling off the needles.
The front chrome outer rim (for the large dials) looks crimped in place. On the back there is just no entry... Am I missing something (special tool?) or is there just no option in opening them ? If they are tamper proof and one day I want to upgrade to a cleaner set what are my options ?
Buy - where, how much ?
Professional restored - where - how much ?
 

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Hey Roland:

You are on the right track. You have to uncrimp the trim ring from the housing. I use a regular/flat screwdriver to push the crimp out from the back (as you are holding it above in your last picture). Then I use a tiny flat screwdriver to slip in between the ring and housing to slip it off. Be careful to not pry deep or you will crack the glass. Then remove the two inner screws in your last picture and the head unit falls out of the housing. The trim ring metal is pretty soft and easily recrimped when done. Don't touch or clean the face of the gauge. Just get the inside of the glass and it will look like new.

Best Regards,

John M
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Polish

Thanks john,
I was scared to start uncrimping.... I have already mucked up stuff trying to do that (mark the trim ring etc..). I want to polish the trim ring. How deep is the chrome finish ? I will startout by hand rubbing it to check.. hopefully there is enough to get a shine again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maintenance

Once in there is there any preventative maintenance I can do (oilstuff) or should I leave things alone as much as possible (best when in unknown territory although I always like to go for discovery !).
 

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Hey Roland:

I wouldn't think the chrome is very thick. It didn't damage the chrome when I removed mine. I would just use some steel wool to polish. They will really polish up quite well with the steel wool. I have lubricated the mechanics of mine with WD40, but no particular place to suggest on the drive. Just be sure to hold it face up with a clean rag over the face when you oil. And let it drain. And less is best.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Hi Roland,

As you may remember, I just finished redoing my dash. On some of my smaller guages, I found that a couple of the trim rings had the same corrosion that yours have. When I buffed them, brass ended up showing thru. Those trim rings are made of brass and then chromed. The chrome is not very thick. I would search for some replacement guages that have chrome that is nice enough to withstand a little buffing.

Oh, I can also help you with refurbishing your wire harness. I found some black tape that isn't sticky and I also found the correct wire connectors.

Check out British Wiring. They have a online catalogue.

http://www.britishwiring.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dials

Thanks Ossodisepia.. that what i was worried about....
Not sure where to look for the guages...
Guess I'll softly shine them up by hand and install them until I find replacements. I guess I need to find replacement for all of the or else the new ones will stand out next to the older ones.
Do you recommend the Italian Mostre (I still have not found info on them - any leads would be greatly welcomed) or some retail distributor (can't seem to see any guages in any of the online catalogues)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wiring

Ossodisepia.. you mention non sticky tape for harnesses. Stupid question: if it is not sticky how does it stick in place ? :)
I have never redone a harness before. I wanted to stay away from sticky tape because of the way I have seen it age in the past (shrivel, gets goey and stuff).
Does anyone recommend wrapping the harness in tape ? Aren't there other solutions (swirley plastic wrap...) ?
What is the best protective solution for harnesses ?
 

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The correct non-sticky vinyl tape is also available from www.eastwoodco.com. Search for 'vinyl tape' or part number 25000.
Actually, every car I've ever worked on uses non-stick tape. It's always the PO that uses electrical tape!
 

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Hey Roland,

John is right about removing the outer ring... that was what I did using a small sized flat screw driver and just work round the whole ring not just some bits so that I can slip the ring off and not have to force or pry it. The ring is made of brass and it is flexible so be careful not to dent or bent it - though that can be repaired.

I too have found that once inside, the black matt paint remain in pretty good condition so dont touch it even with a cloth etc, just clean up the needle and brush the face with a clean artist brush to get rid of dust etc. Clean the glass with alchol and it will clean up perfectly. As to regreasing the thing, there is a difference between the 3 small gauges which are electric and the 2 large which are mechanical (at least for mine) I'll be very careful because normal grease are just not suitable. They are too thick, even WD40 which I'm told are prone to gum up over time and so I'm doubtful about the "archival" quality of WD40. What you need is watch grease. Anyway, better not to mess around with the inside unless you know what you are doing as they are very sensitive and can be damaged if handled carelessly.

At this point, I'll like to say that all this is pointless if you are not getting the ring and the angled support rechromed because it will just look clean but not too nice. The rings are made of brass which will chrome really nicely or if you like polished the brass up real good and it looked like gold which I did for about 1 week, but heck it tarnishes quickly unless protected. So I had mine rechromed 2 weeks back and they are simply beautiful looked like new. I'll try and attach some photos later this weekend.

fgc
67 duetto
 

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Re-wraping a wire harness (part 1)

Roland,

Here are a few pics showing how to get the wrapping started. I broke my harness up into three pieces. The first piece was the one that runs along the intake side of the engine. The second was the stretch that runs under the dash. The third the stretch that runs to the trunk. Stretch the wire harness out so that it's fairly taught. Secure both ends to something that won't move.
 

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Re-wrapping a wire harnes (part 2)

Remove a short section of the old tape. I usually do about a foot or so. Clean the old tape gum off the wires with alcohol. Get your new tape and start wraping in the opposite direction that the tape will be wrapped. Start an inch or so from where the tape is supposed to start and wrap in that direction. When you get to the point where the tape is supposed to start, stretch the tape very tightly and begin wrapping in the opposite direction. The picture below shows how I started wrapping On this stretch of harness, the tape was wrapped around the wires from left to right. So, I began wrapping from right to left. Make sure that you keep the tape taught. I prefer to stretch the tape. Don't stretch it too much as it may lose it's memory.
 

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Re-wrapping a wire harness (part 3)

Continue wrapping the tape around the wires. If you have to rest or stop, take a piece of electrical tape and wrap it around your stopping point an let the rest of the spool of non-sticky tape dangle. OH, one very important note......Do not cut the tape to the length you thnk you will need. Wrap the tape directly from the spool as shown in the picture. When you get to the end, cut the non-sticky tape and wrap a couple of inches of regular sticky electrical tape around the end. I always started at the end and worked toward the beginning. I figured a little of the sticky tape in a place under the dash would never be seen.
 

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Probably being too obsessed with originality, here's a pic of a new 'knot' in it's original location at the end of this tail light harness. I guess the new shrink tube on the wire in the background rules out 'probably'. :rolleyes:
 

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I want to remove the speedo and tacho from my 66 spider for a clean up (thanks to other posts on advice). Took a look under the dash and it is pretty crowded under there. Do they pull out from the front?
The speedo is not working so I guess that means a new cable. Any hints on that as well?
thanks

Rob
710 315
Australia
 

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Once the retaining nuts and yokes are removed, yes, the instruments proper come out the front.

Cable should be fairly obvious if its broken once you get the speedo head out enough to uncouple the cable sleeve from the back of it.
 
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