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Not necessarily, but the plugs may get fouled if it persists (i.e. gas and no spark) You seem to be losing spark, whether or not you are losing fuel. Another idea would be to get a voltage tester and hook up to a fuel injector wire set with alligator clamps and see what happens when she cuts out. if you hooked up t a few different circuits it might narrow down the problem.
 

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also check the battery. is it clamped down good? I have seen where a battery coming lose with nothing to keep the charge going like cap in a rado etc to cause problems. it is common for the voltage to also jumo to 100s of volts if the battery comes undone. some ecus fry and some shutdown. also might try jacking the car to a 40° or so and see if you can get it to stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
also check the battery. is it clamped down good? I have seen where a battery coming lose with nothing to keep the charge going like cap in a rado etc to cause problems. it is common for the voltage to also jumo to 100s of volts if the battery comes undone. some ecus fry and some shutdown. also might try jacking the car to a 40° or so and see if you can get it to stop.
Battery is clamped down and positive terminal insulated and taped per AROC competition rules. "Jacking the car to 40 degrees"? Do you mean tipping the car to simulate lateral load,..... and then starting it up? Sounds risky to me. If the car is 6 ft wide, that would mean lifting the side aprox. 4 feet!
 

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Haha, as long as one tire is still on the ground...
 

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I think there are some streets in san francisco that steep, you just need to park sidways :)
But yea jack it up you could also use a chane to tie to to somthing it you fear it tipping over.
but I would start on a hill then you only need to jack it part way.
then you can also see if somthing moves like the motor coming off a mount etc.

I kinda thought you would find it by now just yanking on different wires while it runs..

lets see here is a different test you could try. try runing a light off the block ground and say the power feeding the injectors. put the light some where you can see it and go for a dive. and see if the light goes out when it cuts out. Also checking the tach like was posted before.
if the tach and the light stay on. then move the light to the 2nd part of the relay that feeds the pump. and retest.

if all that pass then I would check the AFM and the white temp sender. wires,plugs, and the temp sender and the AFM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
fixed?

I have put about 300 miles on the car driving back roads without a problem.
Examined all connections to distributor, injectors, AFM, ECU, and harness and did not find anything that looked like it would have caused a problem. I obviously did not push the car as hard on public roads as I do on the track, so I'm not sure if it is fixed. I was unable to attend the local autocross last week due to work schedule. I'm looking for a fall track event to test the car. I'll keep this post marked and update it when I get some info. Thanks for asking. At least it's reliable on the street.

Jim
 

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Ive known this problem once before. The ignition coil is oil filled in my case it had leaked over time without my knowledge. It had sufficient oil to maintain electrical insulation & therefore spark until you went belting round a corner & the remaining oil sloshed to the top shorted the coil internally & the motor dies. Steer straight & the motor runs. So try changing the coil ! PM me if im right. Cheers C McT
 

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I still have same power loss problem after engine warms up. Runs fine for about 5 minutes then loses power , especially while turning. Narrowed it down to injector power. I have replaced everything in the car electrical except the wiring harness. I have had enough so I am putting a Haltech f10x in.

Crane system is now on the ignition side and works fine.

You can follow the progress of this project on Alfagtv6 whenever the forum gets working again.....
 
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