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Discussion Starter #1
Alfisti,

I now have living in my garage, the somewhat rusty shell of a '73 GTV. Although this has been a 'parts car', the shell is actually in pretty good shape to start a resto project on (good floor pans, rockers, very few dents, etc.).

I have wanted to get into Vintage Racing for a while now, and I think this car might be a good candidate. Now, I know that it's usually much cheaper to buy a 'race car' than it is to make one, but it also means that you have to live with the PO's mistakes.

I know that there are different rules for different sanctioning bodies, but I think what I am probably looking to do is to build a 2L (not Twin-Spark), race-only vehicle...keeping the stock body-form (no GTAm stuff).

In any event, I'd love to hear what you all think about what should be done to build one 'right', if you could...and I just might!
 

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it all depends on your budget...

to start off with, you are gonna need a suspension:
koni, shocks, ward and deane springs, adjustable upper control arms, and bigger sway bars will make a good foundation. later on you can go with the panhard rod or sliding block set up for the rear.

drivetrain: if you can build that 200hp monster, then do it. couple things you may want to think about...do you think you can handle all that power to start off with? might want to go with a stock or mild motor for the first year or two so you can get used to the car and learn how it handles...too much power can sometimes get you into trouble. a stock trans will be fine in the begining. there is a wide variety of tranny's available from $1000 - $5000. as far as rear ends, go with a 4.56 LSD out of a 2 liter gtv (your car should already have this) and shim it up a little so it has about 90% lock up.

safety: make sure you get a good roll cage. custom fabed ones are the way to go or you can get prefitted bolt in ones from sparco or autopower. make sure you also get the proper 5 points, fire system, fuel cell, and seat.

is there anything i have left out that you still have questions about?
 

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What I would do.

Build a hot hot street motor, and race in a stockish group. And you could still drive the lovly GTV on the street.

That's my future plan.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies so far.

I have "some" racing experience, so the idea I have is to build the car 'right' for the track (as much as my budget allows anyway) and get used to her in full race-prep.

The sliding block/ Panhard bar issue is a good question. What are your experiences? I have talked to a few guys with the sliding blocks and they are happy with that setup.

As for making her 'steetable'...I have lots of other street Alfas, so I don't mind having one built just for the track.

I have a great relationship with the Alfa Race-shop of Krause and England in North Carolina and will probably have them do much of the race-prep (cage, cell, diff, engine, etc.).

I am hoping that this thread will help others who are interested in setting up their 105s for racing too.

Cheers,
 

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both the panhard rod and sliding block are nice additions to the car. most people run panhard rods because they are a lot cheaper and more available than the sliding block.
 

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How much power is too much for a street / track car? Is it possible to build a 170 - 180 hp 2 L engine that will still handle the occasional traffic jam? What mods are required to get to that level (assuming carbs)?

Thanks......Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My '78 Alfetta Sprint Veloce had a Gary Valant-built 2L that pumped a 'dynoed' 160 HP. It had 11mm cams, big valves, etc...but ran stock pistons (Gary said they were stronger). It also had a Wes Ingram SPICA system, and Shankle header, sure-start and quadraflow intake. The engine was balanced and blueprinted to within just a few grains, and all the intake and exhaust plumbing was hand 'honed' for better flow.

How did it run? For a very 'hot' 2L, it ran very well on the street. It didn't have much torque down low, and the idle was pretty rough...but once you were up 'on cam' over about 3500RPM, she just SANG like a screaming punk rocker! The only real issue was that the underhood temps got pretty high in traffic because of the uncoated header.

If I were to run a 2L on the street though, I think the best setup is to go with a 2L twin-spark from a Euro 75 (Milano). These engines sometimes come up on E-Bay (usually in pairs). They can run a very reliable and streetable 170HP no problem! Unfortunately, they aren't legal for most race applications.
 
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