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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm out for a ride in my 84 GTV6 yesterday running great etc etc when I take a left turn hit the gas and nothing the engine died like immediately no cough no sputter just one minute ok, the next dead.

So I am hoping it's the rollover switch. What is the best way to eliminate this thing?

I checked the fuel pump by opening the air flap and it was working after the "death" so would it still work by manually opening the air flap if the rollover switch had been tirggered?
All wires looked intact at coil but would not start. Unfortumately it got dark before I could check for spark.
 

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I just make a jumper with 2 spade lugs on each end. Take the 2 wires out of the switch and short them. It's on the firewall on the passenger side.
 

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The "rollover" switch (aka inertia switch) - if tripped - would (should) cut power to the fuel pump. So, if you've confirmed the pump is running by opening the AFM's flap with the ignition on then it seems unlikely the switch was tripped. It can be re-set by pressing the button on the top. Or the two wires attached to it connected together to bypass it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not it, apparently

Ok so that's not it because I pulled them off and connected them together and still no start.
I'll check for spark tonight.
Can I assume if I have spark, that the ignition switch is OK, at least for the moment when I check the spark.

It (the switch) hasn't shown any weird symptoms before.
 

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How did you check the fuel pump? It could be making a noise but not delivering fuel. The best way to check it is to install a pressure gauge in the hose to the cold start injector.
 

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Check the ignition switch too. Mine would do the same thing - left turn, shut off. Seems the worn out switch mechanism would disconnect under even a slight g-load. Several other forum members recommended the replacement as it's allegedly a fairly common issue. Got a new-used one from APE and the problem never resurfaced.

Replacing the switch can be a real PITA, by the way.
 

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When mine died all of the sudden like that it was the spark box, if you turn the key on and listen under the hood you would get a couple of "zaps" from the spark box firing without the engine running, just don't hold the lead when it fires. You are right to check for spark next, if you don't have spark, it could be the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So still a mystery

Checked for spark last night and it was good. It did start but was flooded.

Still no really good reason why it died although the roll over switch is certainly trashed but I shorted it out and it still wouldn't start when I was at the side of the road but it may have been flooded by then ....hard to say.

Still somewhat uncomfortable with the "solution" of taking out the roll over switch since I still don't know if I have a problem with the ignition switch although to date it has giiven me no other cause for concern.

By the way what is the spark box? Is that the thing under the coil?
 

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There's a way to hotwire the ignition and test the switch, but I thing you more or less have to remove the assembly, which is the PITA I was referring to earlier.

The thing that was interesting about mine is that after sitting for a bit and/or jiggling the key, it would start right back up as though nothing had happened.
 

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Hmmm, mine cut off at a left turn a few weeks back also. I found a small wire had come loose at the coil...slid it back on an made sure the rubber boot was securely over it and it started up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Which wire came loose?

Which wire came loose the green one or the white ones? By lose do you mean it came off? The reason why I am asking is that the plastic connectors on my coil seem looser than I would like.
I'll have to figure out a way to tighten them up.
 

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It was the white connector (see the attached photo)....it looked like it was on, but it had slid almost all the way off. I just slid it back on and pulled the rubber cover firmly over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks!

OK I am going to figure out a way to tighten my connections up so they don't slip.

Thanks for the clue.
 

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I haven't checked that particular connector but most electrical connectors can be removed to allow a slight snugging up of the female connector as shown in this thread.

Use a tiny screwdriver (aka jeweler's screwdriver) inserted into the notch that is being pointed to in the first photo to release the tab holding the connector.





 
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