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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
Just pressed out the old and notice the diameter of the new bushing is just a mm or so too large to simply press back in. It does have compression notches though. I looked it up in the manual and a tool is depicted (part number A.3.0435). Anyone ever improvised a tool to compress the de dion tube mount's anti-vibration bushing to squeeze it back in?
Thanks!
 

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I think I used the transaxle rear bearing tool when I did it, but I wnet with the polly bushing...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It's in

Two 2 1/8 inch muffler clamp pieces, $4.30...threaded rod, nuts, and washers, $4.17...compression tool fabricated- priceless. Once compressed, and you can only compress about the first quarter inch or so to get it started- it pushed right in with hand pressure until it hit the compression tool metal as a stop. But it was in! I relocated the tool higher up on the bushing and pushed it in further. You will reach a point where the tool no longer compresses the bushing because it's too high up on the bushing, but I used whatever I had laying about the garage to fabricate a press to get it almost completely in. However, the "mushroom" effect caused by my inefficient hand press combined with very little leverage from my small hand tools prevented complete installation- so I grabbed a piece of 2X4 and a sledge and tapped it in flush. A wooden stake and the sledge completed the job.
 

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Very creative ... got patent?:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey thanks- I was going to offer it up to anyone that needed it for round trip postage but it is so inexpensive to make, even an Alfa owner can afford it :p
 

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Good job MacGyver!

I had to get all creative like this last week when rebuilding my Showa forks on my Ducati. Needed a spring compresor so I made due with bits from the garage:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
even better

Replaced the Alfetta De Dion bushing yesterday using this setup. Worked even better than my clamps. That's a 2 in. outside to 2 in. inside stepped exhaust pipe connector sourced at the local parts store for $3. The bush fits perfectly in the larger end and compresses to just the right diameter coming out the bottom. A 2.5 in threaded hose pipe, a threaded rod and nuts, and two iron pipe connectors from the local Lowes completed this press tool. I lubricated everything with brake fluid to help it slide, and slide it did, right into postion with very little cranking force. I left the stake nubs in place on the axle but smoothed the tops just a tad before I did this using my dremel flap disk.
 

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Buffy the Vampire Slayer said:
A wooden stake and the sledge completed the job.




Later-
doesn't brake fluid dissolve rubber?
No it doesn't.

Your brake calipers have rubber seals in them.

Think about this for a second.;)

Brake fluid is designed specifically NOT to dissolve rubber.
 

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unless it is a old British car. it is not rubber. And They have to use Girling fluid (vegetable oil base which was compatible with rubber)
or silicone brake fluids
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No doubt you could. With the rear of the car firmly on jackstands, clear the exhaust, shift lever, and clutch slave cylinder free (remove the entire slave cylinder without breaking the line if you can reach the bolts to avoid bleeding upon reassembly; otherwise disconnect the hose at the clutch pack), remove the three bolts/self locking nuts that connect the driveshaft flex coupling to the clutch yoke (spider), and the the six bolts that retain the front axle crossmember to the chassis. At the back of the car, place a floor jack under the middle of the De Dion tube and raise the tube, which will lower the front and allow you good access to remove the front crossmember and replace the bushing.
 

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is it possible to replace the de dion bushing without removing the de dion from the car?
Absolutely. That's how I do it. I think I posted pictures in the Roxanne thread - I used a poly bushing from Performatek. BTW, if I recall correctly, you don't need to disconnect clutch slave cylinder or flex line. Also, you need to undo two nuts holding driveshaft center support to chassis to limit bend on driveshaft. Likely, you have to undo the front transaxle mounts to get cross-member out of the way. All easy things.

Here is link: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1987-1989/27358-roxanne-budget-milano-75-track-car-10.html#post244622

Jes
 

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thanks, jess. after posting my question i remembered your pics and info about pressing the bushing in. just couldn't remember if that was the de dion or not.

i'll dig that up and see. looks like a pain but will need to do it soon.
 

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hello everyone, i have a 1979 sport sedan , i'm trying to repalce the dedion bushing, i have a new one i ordered time ago from iap or similar and it appears to have a much larger circular diameter than the orignal bushing, approx half a centimeter or more. my question is... could it be that i have the wrong bushing? it looks the same but it's larger in circular diameter
,did the milano, or gtv6 have a larger diamter de dion tube bushing ???? i would appreciate some help , given that i'm in baja mexico and it's quite difficult for me to have info on the matter.
thank you kindly . Giovanni pirotta .
 

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The factory tool for the Milano has a tapered bore which will compress the bushing as in travels through the tool and is inserted into the dedion so I imagine the new bushing would be bigger than the hole.


IAP does show a different bushing for the Alfetta, p/n 61011 than for the GTV6/Milano, p/n 91035.

Other vendors also show different part numbers for Alfetta vs GTV6/Milano

The V6 cars use a larger diameter bushing at the front of the triangle.
 
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