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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is your dimmer flakey? Does it dim consistently as you roll it up/down, or is it intermittent, etc?

On both my 95LS's the dimmer was flakey. Didn;t really act like an analog control, seemed to like high illumination more than the dimmer settings-- but would jump from one to the other.

So, take out that little panel below/in front of the instrument cluster by carefully prying out the edge panels (the one on the left has the test/trip/zero label and the opposite one is just a blank panel, both are about 1/2 high or so by 4 or so inches long). Stick a thin screwdriver under the edge and pry it out carfully, both sides. remove the lamp from the left one.

Theres one phillips screw under each panel, take em out, lower the fusebox door and take out the two below holding the bottom edge.

Pull that panel off carefully, it comes straight out. The center (directly behind the steering wheel) will hang up, just a firm pull will free it. Remove the panel and the connections on the left side (three switches, and the dimmer control). The dimmer control connector is held by small barbs on the sides -- pry that baby off gently and remove the panel to your workbench

The dimmer controller is held in place by a steel band from behind that can be removed easily. Then, its held by small barbs in the panel itself. With a small screwdriver, relieve the barb interface and push the dimmer assembly 'out the back of the panel"

This assembly is enclosed in a plastic case that has a back cover staked on in the 4 corners by plastic posts. Pry that back cover off with a screwdriver (lots of prying in this job!) -- dont; worry, the staked ends will yield.

ONce you get it apart, clean everything up-- typical Alfa electronics quality, the circuit boards in both my cars were contaminated and the solder flow quality (through-hole) was garbage. Use contact cleaner in the little pot that the dimmer rotator engages. Resolder all dodgy joints (there will be several) and re-assemble. Be careful to make sure that the gear on the dimmer rotator engages properly with the gear on the potentiometer. Its obvious when you see it. When you rotate the front knob, make sure the pot rotates both directions full excursion.

Put everything back together. Taper the back of the 'staked ends" of the pins so that they will pass through the holes on the back cover. Theres enough interference between the pin diameter and holes to hold it all together=Voila -- nice smooth and no intermittent, you can adjust your dashboard backlighting very precisely (i like mine very dark)

It sounds a lot harder than it is. Overall took about 90 minutes start to stop for the first one, and 60 or so for the second
 

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I did this a while back and it worked great, atleast for now :). Next thing I would like to do is to make the interior lights and instrument panel lights a little brighter. They look soo pale and dim compared to other cars, but I like the positioning of our interior lights when they all lit up as soon as you open the door, its like giving you a warm welcome into the car :p .

-Pavan
 

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Coming home the other night the dash lights in my 164-S, just went completely dark. The head lights, blinkers and tail lights all seem to work so I suspect the instrument dimmer switch is the culpret based on this thread:

Following Goats' excellent instructions above, the dimmer switch was extracted and disassembled.

Fortunately all of the solder joints were clean and well done. Contact cleaner was sprayed into the variable resistance potentiameter (marked 220 K). When checking the potentiameter, it measured only 0.257 Ohms -at all positions. I have a bunch of spare potentiameters but none that appear sutible as a replacement for the stock pot. A new dimmer switch is on order coming from OR -fingers crossed.

Mark
 
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