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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi!

I’ve took the dashboard off the change HVAC stepper gearbox and refurbish the system altogether. I’ve noticed some baffling electrical solutions (probably made by PO) and one is something I cant figure out why it’s done. One thick red wire is coming from ignition (or fuel pump) relay to the right side of the dash (LHD) and connects with PINK-WHITE wire near the connector. What‘s that P-W wire? Haven’t been able to find it in wiring diagrams.

E: I traced the P-W wire and it goes to the smaller round connector in front of wiper motor (engine harness).
 

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That pink/white POWER wire goes from pin 87 of fuel pump S12a to fuel pump in trunk via pin 2 of that small round G154 connector. The fuel pump relay on USA spec 164s is located on top radiator support along with ignition coil and motronic red stripe S12b relay. It that where your relay is located? What wire and pin socket on your relay socket is that add on bigger red wire attached to?

Normally the pink-white wire is only powered when S12a relay energized by engine S11 motronic computer sending a signal to ground the relay to energize it. The engine has to be turning over cranking or running for crank sensor to signal computer to ground relay. If ADD ON red wire attached to pin 30 pink wire or pin 86 red wire somebody has bypassed S12a fuel pump relay to get pump to run with engine off but key on. Report your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow! Thanks! Now I remember that the PO had fiddled with the pump. Also the crank sensor connector had been torn apart so there might be the reason for the wire. The add-on wire goes to the pump relay near the coil and connects to the big red wire. So the new wire would bypass ECU and have pump running whenever key is on? This is also what I’ve encountered when I was changing the injectors few months ago (petrol is constantly flowing in the fuel pipes).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was looking for crank sensor for the car. What does the original connector look like? Mine has a big 2-pin white connector. One wire is currently just sitting about.
 

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Is this a 12v V6 engine in this 164? Original style crank sensor connector is a 3-pin male to 3 connector female end on chassis wiring harness.
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Sounds like some shade tree engineering going on with your 164.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, 12V indeed. Also the support for the sensor has cracked so I have fix it somehow.

While the sensor seems to be the reason for this “engineering”, I’ll have to check the rest of the components for any malfunctions. Is there a descriptive diagram for the fuel pump circuit in the service manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
IMG_0033.jpeg IMG_0043.jpeg
Quality work:rolleyes:

I cut off the white block connector and took a look at the wire. The original seems to have bright green insulation, am I right? With two separate wires and outer wire (like coaxial cable)?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alrighty, have to start testing once I have the engine back in running condition.
A couple more things. There are two holders (with fuses) for relays next to the steering column. Should there be relays? I don’t have any.
Is there any connectors for the cabin air blower attached to the stepper motor bracket? Mine was just sitting there disconnected to anything (no pipes nor wires).

Plus something unrelated to dashboard. Are steering rack sealing kits available to buy anymore? Jorgen auto didn’t have any. Took the boot off and noticed a bit of fluid inside. What should I change or do a complete overhaul?
 

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To stop a bad leak in a steering rack requires it to be disassembled to replace the rack shaft seals. Now, a bit of fluid inside the rubber boot is not a leak to really worry about.

RHD model question hard to answer from my LHD world.

As for blower motor wiring on LHD models it is located behind the false firewall not under dash.

No relays in sockets under steering column on LHD USA spec models
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As for blower motor wiring on LHD models it is located behind the false firewall not under dash.
No, not the actual blower motor of the heater system but the small on (it doesn't seem to have any sensors in it so it must be just for blowing air around) behind the rearmost (heat/cool) stepper motor. Can be seen quite well through the glove box. MY1991, Lusso.

As for the rack, I might do the overhaul. The car is new to me and the power steering oil was suspiciously clean:unsure:. The car really isn't in the shape that would explain that. Plus, now it's easy as the rack is already out of the car.
 

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That tiny motor is/was part of the internal temp sensing system. I remember having one of them on my 164B model built in early 1990. I believe I removed it when installed a new stepper assembly and did not seem to have any ill affect on system.

Be real careful if you decide to rebuild the rack. I suggest you do not remove/replace the Teflon piston ring on rack shaft or the 4 Teflon rings on pinion shaft distribution valve. Only replace the two rack shaft end seals, There are upper and lower shaft seals in the aluminum body of rack that can be replaced when you have the pinion shaft. the top one has to come out with pinion shaft assembly.

See this thread for more info: https://www.alfabb.com/threads/steering-rack-exploded-view.52556/ https://www.alfabb.com/threads/steering-rack-exploded-view.52556/#post-463912



There are ebay sellers that list 164 rack seal kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the tip! I must read through all the threads about the rack overhaul when before doing anything. Did already order a seal kit but never knows how long it takes to arrive.

I couldn’t find OE number for fuse box light. Is it the same bulb holder that’s in the trunk? Looks the same at least.
 

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Trunk light is 60577510 looks the same as fuse box light but I can not find fuse box light in eper.
 
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