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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All..

Has anyone got a step by step guide to removing the dash board on a 71 spider? (assume all the same)... I know its not too big a job and would appreciate any ones help. Some thing in plain english that I can print off would be great.

Thanks
 

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Just going by memory (warning - that's becoming unreliable...) - disconnect battery, remove center console (there are a few harness connectors - IIRC they are color coded but it is a good idea to mark them for later re-assembly), remove instruments, remove defrost vents and push defroster hoses off the fittings, remove/loosen two wing nuts up under the dash (just to the left & right of the heater box IIRC) and remove one bolt on each side - extreme outer/underside of dash. You might need to remove the steering column plastic cover - four screws from the underside. Then maneuver the dash away from the windshield (those two wing nuts underneath slide out from slotted tabs) and out of the car.
 

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It's probably easier leaving the instruments on, and just disconnecting the harnesses and removing the entire instrument panel with the instruments
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rights... sounds fairly straightfoward:thumbup: I have a nice as new dash with no cracks to replace it with...

Is it worth doing any other work whilst the dash is out?



Just going by memory (warning - that's becoming unreliable...) - disconnect battery, remove center console (there are a few harness connectors - IIRC they are color coded but it is a good idea to mark them for later re-assembly), remove instruments, remove defrost vents and push defroster hoses off the fittings, remove/loosen two wing nuts up under the dash (just to the left & right of the heater box IIRC) and remove one bolt on each side - extreme outer/underside of dash. You might need to remove the steering column plastic cover - four screws from the underside. Then maneuver the dash away from the windshield (those two wing nuts underneath slide out from slotted tabs) and out of the car.
 

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Is it worth doing any other work whilst the dash is out?
Remove the heater unit & check the blower motor. It sits down at the bottom of the heater. Any water or coolant that gets in can drown the motor. Clean & lube the motor and drill a couple of small drain holes in the bottom of the housing. That way any fluid that gets in can get out (unfortunately on the carpets...)

Clean all electrical connections. IIRC, there is a ground wire that goes to the top underside of the dash. Run an extra wire from there to the body to ensure the dash gets a good ground.

Clean all connections to the back of the fuse box. It unclips & drops down so you can get to the back side.

Post lots of pictures. A disassembled Alfa is like porn to us...
 

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To add to the above, disconnect the speedo and tach. To do that, you just unscrew the screws holding the pod extensions on and you'll see everything else you will need to un-do.

CAUTION: I thought I had to disconnect the cowl drains (because I did not know what they were) and broke them....in the end, I replaced them with hoses found at a local auto store for $15 each, so it was no big deal. And replace the blower now if it doesn't work. I did mine at that time, was still a PITA to replace by dropping it.

Make sure your three gages are in place and wired back up before putting the dash back on, it's very difficult to get to the thumb screws in the back without pulling the dash.

Mark all the wires with tape, and make sure you have the wiring diagram printed out. This way you can figure out what each are for. Remove the cover on the steering wheel.

The two attached pictures tell a big story. If you look at my right hand cowl drain, you can see I replaced it with a rubber one. I posted pictures of that too. I will find that and make another post.

See the two tabs towards the middle of the dash? That's where the thumb screws are for the dash. As I recall, once those are loose, you pull the dash back towards you, not up to get it out. I tried pulling it up and it wouldn't come out.....whatever it is, it will come easy once it is free.

Oh, and you don't have to remove the nut holding the speedo reset chrome thingy....it comes out with the dash. Just remove the cable from the speedo pod when you remove the speedo.

It's easy to do. Good luck mate!
 

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Here is the link to replacing the cowl drains, I did both sides to be safe, my post with pictures are the last ones on page 2:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/68710-cowl-drain-tubes-replacement.html

And after looking at the dash picture some more, the dash comes out horizontally, see how it has pull out of the HVAC lines on the left and right? Don't try and pull up on it, just towards the back of the car.

Here are links to the full size pictures, it will probably help.

http://www.audipages.com/alfa/DSC_2982.JPG

http://www.audipages.com/alfa/DSC_2984.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hi Paul


thanks for uploading the pics, that's a great help and compliments your write up, can I just confirm that the cowls can be left in place? Unless they are broken or currently damaged?

thanks again for your help..



To add to the above, disconnect the speedo and



tach. To do that, you just unscrew the screws holding the pod extensions on and you'll see everything else you will need to un-do.

CAUTION: I thought I had to disconnect the cowl drains (because I did not know what they were) and broke them....in the end, I replaced them with hoses found at a local auto store for $15 each, so it was no big deal. And replace the blower now if it doesn't work. I did mine at that time, was still a PITA to replace by dropping it.

Make sure your three gages are in place and wired back up before putting the dash back on, it's very difficult to get to the thumb screws in the back without pulling the dash.

Mark all the wires with tape, and make sure you have the wiring diagram printed out. This way you can figure out what each are for. Remove the cover on the steering wheel.

The two attached pictures tell a big story. If you look at my right hand cowl drain, you can see I replaced it with a rubber one. I posted pictures of that too. I will find that and make another post.

See the two tabs towards the middle of the dash? That's where the thumb screws are for the dash. As I recall, once those are loose, you pull the dash back towards you, not up to get it out. I tried pulling it up and it wouldn't come out.....whatever it is, it will come easy once it is free.

Oh, and you don't have to remove the nut holding the speedo reset chrome thingy....it comes out with the dash. Just remove the cable from the speedo pod when you remove the speedo.

It's easy to do. Good luck mate!
 

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Timely

Thanks for this thread as I'm about to take the dash out of my white spyder prior to cutting out the firewall.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers.. forgot to say we have matching interiors! Maroon.. by chance have you tried to colour the rear plastic side panels on your car? Mine have started to fade and I want to recolour them?





Yes....leave the cowl drains in place if there is nothing wrong with them. However, if they are original, I would replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey... do we have match? white 71 spider? does it have maroon interior?

remember to post some pics when your removing the dash... and share
any best practices:thumbup:


Thanks for this thread as I'm about to take the dash out of my white spyder prior to cutting out the firewall.:thumbup:
 

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Colour matches but that is about all. Mine is 1975 with black interior.
 

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S3 Spider with A/C Instrument Panel Removal

I thought that I would add to this thread since I just removed the instrument panel from my A/C equipped 1983 S3 Spider.

The instrument panel is part of my refurb of the cooling and heating system, complete removal of all components of the factory A/C system, removal of the carpeting to inspect the floors, along with removal of all wiring associated with the power windows and mirrors.

Removing the instrument panel really isn't that difficult, or for that matter too time consuming, just take your time, and as Paul W mentions above, label all wiring.

For the A/C equipped S3 Spider, one of the first steps is to depressurize the A/C system. Since my goal is to refurb the cooling/heating, I started by disconnecting the battery, draining the coolant, and removal of the radiator, removal of the A/C condenser, and the auxiliary cooling fan. I removed the A/C hoses from the compressor, and then removed the compressor.

Moving inside the car, prior to removing the instrument panel requires removal of what Alfa calls the cooler unit, which contains the evaporator, ducts, and fan. The first job is to remove the console, which involves prying all switches, and disconnecting the wires after labeling. Remove the gearshift knob, remove the console sides, and the top section of the console. The sides and top are held on by Phillips head screws. If you have a speaker in the passenger's side lower foot well side panel, remove this so you won't damage it when you remove the cooler unit.

After the console is removed, you can move onto the cooler unit. Unscrew the screw securing the lower part of the cooler unit (about the middle of the unit). A plastic strap will drop. Disconnect the condensation drain hose, and remove the glove box. There are two screws on both ends on the underside of the that need to be removed. Once these screws are removed, the cooler unit can be dropped slightly and pulled to the right to access the various hoses to the vents. With the cooler lowered slightly you will see some grounds and electrical connections that will need to be disconnected. There is also the A/C control box that will need to be removed from the back of the cooler unit. As you lower and pull it to the right, the plastic duct that services the driver's side duct should come undone. As you continue pulling the unit out, you have a choice of either just pulling the unit out with the A/C hoses attached, or reaching behind the unit and disconnecting the hoses. I ended up disconnecting the hoses and then pulling the hoses through the firewall. If you plan on keeping your A/C system, be extremely careful not to damage the copper capillary tube as you remove the hoses. You might have to remove some foamed-on insulation to get to the hose connections.

Moving back into the engine compartment, disconnect the speedometer cable. This will allow some slack to pull the instrument panel forward.

Moving back inside, disconnect the speedometer trip meter button from the plastic A/C duct that goes under the steering column. You can now pull out the plastic duct and the connecting hose to the driver's side duct. Next pull the fuse box down to disconnect it from it's nylon hinges. I also removed the steering column cover to allow a little extra wiggle room when removing the panel.

Next, removal of the actual panel. You really don't need to remove the instruments, if you don't mind pulling the speedometer cable through the firewall. Remove the radio. Reach up under the driver's side and disconnect the wires to the tachometer and speedometer. From the empty glove box and radio slot you can access the wires to the central instruments. I started pulling the instrument panel back, but got hung up on the speedometer. Now that I have done this, the easier way, is to remove the speedometer. Under the S3A metal speedometer housing you will see a bolt; remove this. The inside metal housing will now come off (the rest of the housing stays attached to the panel). Unscrew the two screws that secure the speedometer. You will now be able to pull the speedometer out slightly to access the end of the speedometer cable. Disconnect the speedometer cable and pull it back and out. With some wires coming out of the speedometer in addition to the cable, you might have to remove a large plastic "nut" to get the cable out. Once the cable is out, if you want, you can now reattach the speedometer and inner housing. On either ends of the instrument panel are 1 bolt that secures the panel; remove these. Next look up under the panel and you will see two large wing nuts. Remove these. The wing nuts are probably on pretty tight, so I used an upholstery door panel tool, which has a forked end to catch each wing of the nut. The panel will now be able to removed. The panel can now be removed and slid back and out!

Sorry about the dark blurry photos, but with gloomy skies, the garage was quite dark today!
 

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So here's the grungy OEM panel. As I mentioned above, when I originally started to pull the panel, the speedometer cable got hung up. As such, unfortunately I scratched the inside of the tachometer housing on the steering column. Under the tachometer housing, you can see the bolt securing the inside metal housing that you need to remove to access the speedometer. It probably would help to wrap the speedometer and tach in bubble wrap or some other protective material prior to removing the panel, or just remove both instruments.

I will be replacing the instrument panel with this nice panel I found on eBay for $100, and this NOS console also found on eBay for $50.
 

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