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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Two new motor mounts with Paul Spruell reinforcementrs in a 1969 Alfa Spider Veloce, FRAP upper arm pressed out with A-arm lower bushings and HarborFreight $55 dollar 20% off press utilized, new tie rods, castor bushings, Koni shocks set to firm, etc etc ONE Sunday burned, CAUTION, this is what you might look like.

There WERE times I thought I was hosed and wouldn't be able to get the new motor mounts in, IT IS NOT for the feint of heart or tool challenged individual. You do need ingenuity and Dutch stubbornness that you will succeed.
 

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Wait a minute...we need a "before" picture to really access the danger! :)

I've had to toss out a few shirts and pants in the past couple of years due to excess foreign matter. I simply consider it a sign of progress with my projects.
 

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Hey, how come the mirror image?
Only noticed because the 'G' on the Gatorade label is backwards.
Good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Especially different: 1) the SPICA main fuel filter cannister has to be removed to take out the 22mm head, 24mm nut bolt that holds the upper arm to the body 2) I had to make a small notch in the left motor mount to the right of the bolt (not the stud hole, the bolt hole) to slide it in 3)although the a-arm bushings do slide in, and I read the horror stories about the FRAP-O bushings failing (thank you Alfa-bbr's for the warning!)the silicon like material around the green circular tension spring has to be trimmed off flush with the inner metal to slide it in. If this sounds confusing, when you look at the bushing you will see what I mean immediately. Just a razor blade and it takes ten seconds.4) the oil filter cannister has to be removed to get to the lower left nut on the engine from below 5) put the bolts and nuts on the motor mounts on the first mount but do not tighten down, leave them in a secure position, but don't tighten them down until all the fasteners are in place 5) you need a 2x4 or other forgiving material and a sledge to smack down the motor mounts to align holes or a long implement of some sort to lever. Do not lose control of your sledge obviously. 6) the Paul Spruell aluminum caps raise the main iron of the mounts and this concerned me, but I was still able to accomplish the motor mount exchange 7) Remember to eyeball your pieces so they are more or less the same length of the adjustable pieces you take out (adjustable upper arm and castor rod) until you can get to the alignment shop. 8) The Harbor Freight $65 (minus 20% off coupon) press is poorly designed, I bent it because it didn't have enough throw. I bought it because of the size, it will be fine when I add the proper length metal in my redesign. I'll post a picture if I get to it. It worked and I slogged ahead, but it isn't properly designed to add the sockets and attendant length to press out the bushings. 9) You need a fine bottle of wine when you are done and don't plan this on other than a day in the NW when it's not going to be sunny outside, you will need all the cheer you can muster when the going gets depressing :) Good luck and God Bless

I set the Koni Classics to max firm, I'll see if it's OK
 

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Dr. G:

I have the same press I think and bent mine as well (using the bottom pieces of metal to hold the bottom socket instead of the "c-channels". I would be interested to see the fix you have planned.

As for the stylish automotive wear, I've been there several times (actually much worse than your pic) but am getting close to having all the really nasty areas cleaned up. My wife has been pretty good about it but when they are really, really bad I just throw the shirts away.

Glad to hear about the stubborn streak - it is a requirement for these cars I think!
 
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