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I need to replace the outer boot on my driver side front axle. What size are the nuts that secure the allen head screws on the inner CV joint. I am having a devil of a time in loosening these even with a air wrench. My 17mm or 19 mm box wrenches don't seem to want to go on. Terry
 

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I need to replace the outer boot on my driver side front axle. What size are the nuts that secure the allen head screws on the inner CV joint. I am having a devil of a time in loosening these even with a air wrench. My 17mm or 19 mm box wrenches don't seem to want to go on. Terry
You can't get there from here. Nuts will not move they are locked in place by CV joint face. You need to loosen allen headed bolts from nuts with allen stock in a socket on allen stock adapter. Be sure you have a good allen head adapter securely fitted into allen head bolt. Use a hinge handle on extension with adapter and a cheater bar pipe over hinge handle to break bolts loose. Do not strip out alllen head.

I had to give up on a Milano Verde outer CV joint this week as I stripped out two allen heads. Lucky for me I was able to get axle's inner CV joint allen head bolts off tranny stub axles at brake rotors so I could get tranny out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Steve,

I am not sure what you mean by an allen stock/allen stock adapter. I do have approipriate allen wrench. Unfortunately I can't access my 164 cd since I updated to MS Vista. Terry
 

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Steve,

I am not sure what you mean by an allen stock/allen stock adapter. I do have approipriate allen wrench. Unfortunately I can't access my 164 cd since I updated to MS Vista. Terry
This is example of what I mean metric allen head bits in correct size with a 3/8" socket adapter to hold allen head stock bit. I believe axle bolts are 8mm size. I bought a whole set of bits with one socket adapter so you just swap out bits for size you need. I use set all over the 164 engine, too. This web site does not seem to so that type of set. I think I got mine at Sears.

Hex Bit Sockets - Metric On 1/4 Drive - 713 Series From Wiha
 

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Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!
 

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Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!
My technique is to use the chuck off an impact screwdriver (shown below). This was a fairly-useless tool until the magic day when I was trying to remove a jammed screwdriver bit and the chuck flew off, unexpectedly revealing a 1/2" square drive.

I rushed out and bought a set of impact screwdriver bits cheap, including the needed 8mm hex (or is it 7mm?), and along with my usual 1/2" breaker bar (and piece of extension pipe if necessary), it makes an easy job of CV bolts and panel removal (on my Uno, the door hinges are held on with Allen bolts).

I find it is very worthwhile to spend several minutes picking the dirt out of each hex-socket capscrew head Allen bolt (whatever you call them!) using a 'jeweller's screwdriver' - a somewhat euphimistic term for the things made of soft blackened steel, with shiny ribbed handles and badly-rivetted tops, all in a brittle semi-transparent case for a few bucks at a 1-2-3-dollar shop.

-Alex
 

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I purchased an 8 mm Allen drive bit for a 3/8" drive. But it is subtly wrong (too small) and will damage the internals of these socket head screws. Do not trust all manufacturers. I typically use the standard Allen wrenches for initial loosening and final tightening. I clean the screw internal socket with brake cleaner (don't blow it into your eyes) and insert the wrench carefully, resting the long part of the wrench against the P.S. pump for right hand side or the subframe, as appropriate, and then turn the wheel with a cheater bar pushing against two of the lug bolts inserted into their mounting holes. This has worked for me. IIRC the torque spec on the CV flange bolts is only 45 ft lb or so. They are trapped NyLoc nuts and should not be backing off for any reason, so installing with excessive torque would not appear to be a Good Thing.
 

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Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!

My brother lives there, too.
 

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For what it's worth, I bought a very cheap set of long handled allen wrenches ($12AUD) from the local auto parts shop. They have a reasonable amount of give in them, but not enough that they snap off in your hand. They made pretty quick work of the CV bolts as there was more room to move without a big 1/2" driver head in the way. Slow, steady pressure and lots of leverage (and clean out the heads of grease and dirt). Worked for me.
 

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I finally gave up as I could not get the hex nuts loose. I took it over to the local Midas Shop which has some pretty good mechanics. They did it differently. The mechanic peeled the torn boot back and removed a C clip that hele the axle into the hub and voila the axle shaft was disconnected from the hub and the boot replaced. If this happens again I will try that. Cost was only $85. Terry
 

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I finally gave up as I could not get the hex nuts loose. I took it over to the local Midas Shop which has some pretty good mechanics. They did it differently. The mechanic peeled the torn boot back and removed a C clip that hele the axle into the hub and voila the axle shaft was disconnected from the hub and the boot replaced. If this happens again I will try that. Cost was only $85. Terry
I'm still confused as to whether you were trying to turn the hex nuts or the hex-socket (Allen socket) bolts. :confused:

The Allen bolts are tight but with the notes in this thread, you should be able to get them out (maybe when the other side CV next needs attention?) Again, I find that picking the dirt out first is time well-spent.

On the other hand, I was a bit surprised that the driveshaft parted from the CV joint with the removal of a circlip (it's good that it did though ;)). The ones on my 164 definitely don't have the circlip accessible. I believe mine have an internal snap ring but the CV has to be 'shocked' off the driveshaft and this is very difficult if it is still bolted into the wheel bearing/hub.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It was the hex nuts I could not get off. Tried with a ratchet, air wrench, and breaker bar that was about 20 inches long. No luck. He definitly took off a c clip that secured the hub to the axle and did not remove the half shaft. Terry
 

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I know that I'll be looking over the assembly drawings in the manual to understand what happened. This sounds easier than pulling the whole hub, etc, off. I presume that the new boot was the last thing fixed in place on reassembly?

Michael
 

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As Steve said, the nuts DO NOT LOOSEN only the bolts until you loosen them far enough and then the nuts can turn. They are kept from turning because they are held in place by the closeness of their proximity to the center of the hub. This is on purpose so you do not have to hold them with a wrench. Make since? You have to use an allen head socket and a breaker bar to remove the large allen bolts. They are supposed to be tight quite BTW, or they can come loose and that is not a good thing (grease comes out for one). Glad you got it fixed but you will know for next time. ;)
Charles
 

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Charles, I suspect miscommunication here. It would be unlikely for someone to be attempting to undo the nuts from the back side of the flange with a 20 inch breaker bar. I don't see how one could get at the nuts with such a bar. Just like my work -- when something doesn't make sense, I'm usually misinterpreting someone else's info (but sometimes it's the other person misinterpreting or mis-stating an observation).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To clarify, I did try to remove the allen head bolts with the appropriate fixture not the nuts on the back side. They would not budge. I assumed that the Midas mechanic (this Midas shop in Logan is a a family owned business an quite competent) would remove the bolts. They did not. Instead they removed the clip securing the axle to the hub. Definitely easier. Terry
 
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