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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Having a problem with my sud. I've just renewed all of the suspension (it's got 33 setup). When bringing the car home, going left round a corner, the car lost drive. Had a look and the outer cv had become separated (the splined end has popped out of the joint). Took complete driveshaft off and had outer joint replaced at a cv place. Driving the other day and the same Thing has happened, again when making a left turn. Will be taking shaft back to be fixed again, but I don't want the same thing to keep happening. Any ideas what could be causing it to keep popping out? Car is lowered about 30 or 40 mm on h&r springs and koni yellows, superpro bushes all round, there is some negative camber but I've had the car lower in the past without any such problems. Any ideas?

Cheers
 

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It sounds like the driveshafts are a tad short, when you fitted the 33 suspension did you also fit the 33 hubs and driveshafts? as you probably know the suds have spacers where the driveshafts bolt to the diff and the (later) 33s dont.
 

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Also check the Circlip that holds the driveshaft to the outer CV joint. That would need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. The car has had the 33 setup for several years now without any problems. Its just been since I changed springs, shocks and bushes after the car had been sitting in the backyard for a couple years. The first time it happened I put it down to the fact the boot was well split so the components in the joint were probably all dried out (especially after sitting so long). However the second time is what's caused my concern. Garage seems to think it's a dodgy circlip or even the old circlip re-used, so took it back to cv place and they seem to think this too so they've fixed it up and we'll see how it goes.

Thanks again!
 

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You got the spacers in?

Its been a while since I have done it but, and there is always a but.......

You have to make sure you use the right spacers between the inner CV joint and the driveshaft flange on the gearbox. From memory there are two sizes, one is about 15mm, another is 25mm and then some use 0mm.

If your drive shafts are popping off I would expect that the overall lenght is to short, ie you are not using a thick enough spacer.

I think I was using the thickest spacer when I used a early Sud GBox (and flanges) and 33 suspension when installed in a Sud

Hope this helps

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I have since had the outer joint repaired and have not had anymore problems with it, in fact I was driving the car for a couple weeks problems free. Then immediately after a wheel alignment, the inner joint popped out. It appears that the shaft is too short as many have said. I have since bought the thicker spacers (23mm?) but have not been able to fit them yet as the bolts are too short. Does anybody know where I can get longer hex bolts to fit?

There are still a couple things confusing me though. I cant work out why I am only having this problem now and not when the car was used as a daily driver a couple years back with the same set up. Could it be the changed ride height (higher) or the increased stiffness due to new poly bushes and konis/h&rs? And why had I stopped having problems until the wheel alignment? It had never had a wheel alignment since the conversion and never drove completely straight (always pulled left).
Thanks for your help!
 

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Any chance that the upper gearbox bush has moved in relation to the mount?

In my 33 the bush had slipped about 1cm and while turning left, the right side halfshaft was stressing the gearbox internals by making strange metal sounds. Turning right had no problem

Thats my 2 cents...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok found the Allen key bolts and fitted it all up with new spacers and it hasn't come out since so that's sorted. Now I am noticing a hum or rubbing sound of some sort when veering left at moderate speed. The noise occasionally remains after straightening up but disappears as soon the wheels begin to turn right. Gritsop this sounds like what you have just described so I will look into that bush. In the meantime does anybody have any other ideas?

Cheers
 

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You might not like this solution but it works and what I did to stop my inner CV from doing this (and this problem cost me a DNF from the front row of the grid :mad:).

Before you do this do some price checking. I found that the complete axle costs the same as a single CV joint, thus I stopped replacing CV joints and just bought the whole axle assembly. Much easier to replace the whole axle assembly. Anyway I've talked about the price incase you are not happy with my solution below ... ie. you will not be wasting any more $'s than you would otherwise.

Anyway, as you can probably gather, my car ate quite a few CV joints before we found the true cause and resolution.

The cause is the pathetic circlip, it comes off during a race and then the CV joint moves on the splines and all hell can break loose.

The solution. Get your arc welder out and have a bucket of water ready and install the circlip AND weld the axle to the CV from one end of the circlip to the other. Thus the weld is only about 10mm long but not only have you reduced the load on the circlip by welding the axle directly to the CV joint, but you have also ensured the circlip can never fall out again. Thus the circlip and the weld will share the job from now on. Chuck the joint in to the water to get the heat out asap.

I never, ever had a single CV joint problem again and even when I was running a 180hp engine.
Pete
 
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